AusBonsai

Jarrod wrote:I have done the rongbark method on my corky bark about a fortnight ago. The top is still green and growing and the branches on the base are starting to bud back strongly after a big prune. I have done this on elms before with great success.

Ok so then, has this tree still got its own roots. Or are you saying cutting it first off.

It's all still attached, just fully ringbarked the trunk and put a pot on filled with spagnum. I will try to get a picture. I also cut the branches below the layer back to start to form the new branches on the base

Hi Bodhidharma, that is a very interesting technique. I have never heard of this before but it makes a lot of sense. One thing I don't understand though, if you insert the toothpicks in the holes you drilled and then proceed to cover with soil, how do the new roots come out? Do they have enough strength to push the toothpicks out?

Thanks


John

bodhidharma wrote:There is another way which is very successful. I got the info from Koreshoffs book and immediately tried it. Drill holes into the tree at the point you want roots at. Use a toothpick sized drill and drill right the way around.going in beyond the cambium. Take your toothpicks and wetting one end stick it into some powdered growth hormone or liquid, if you prefer and insert it into the hole. once all the toothpicks are in bury the toothpicks with your growing medium and wait. I have had success with Maples, lilacs and am going to try it on an evergreen.

Hi Jester. None of the above. the root comes out in a fine tendril and then begins it growth pattern. I uncovered one last year to check it out and it was very fine so i quickly covered it again. It is very, very wet in Dayleford at the moment so i am hanging of to uncover it again. I think the procedure is much slower than other methods but is much simpler to do. If you have lots of trees and are not in a hurry to sever the new root system from theold it is ideal. I will post some photos when we dry out a little

So are you saying that these fine tendrils work there way around the inserted toothpicks? Am I understanding you correctly?

thats what i am understanding it as jester

yep that is correct

Very interesting reading; does anyone have any experience/success with these methods on conifers?

I have an Abies Amabilis "Spreading Star" that has interesting needles (flat, short, blue), interesting form and a flaring trunk above the graft, but it has the worlds ugliest graft. I would like to establish new roots above the graft to elininate the graft and take advantage of the excellent flare. I am leaning to the methods that allow the top to still draw on the original roots while establishing the new. Am I right in thinking that conifers can take quite a while to establish new roots. I would prefer to take more time about it to insure that I don't loose the tree.

Any suggestions?

Jan.