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Re: Japanese maple?
Posted: January 31st, 2017, 5:43 pm
by wal
shibui wrote:Reverse taper is where you have a thicker area above a thinner part of trunk or branch. Our minds expect a tree to be widest near the ground and get gradually thinner all the way to the top. Reverse taper can upset our unconscious feeling of what is right and proper so we try to avoid it in bonsai.
Your tree is just starting to develop reverse taper where those branches come from. Several branches from one place on the trunk can cause the trunk to swell up and develop reverse taper. My advice is to cut off 2 of those low branches to stop it developing further.
I doubt liquidamber would be grafted. They are so easy to grow from cuttings it would be unusual for someone to graft. More likely to be a root cutting which often look like this and would also explain the reverse taper.
It looks like there is another small tree growing from fa spare root beside the main tree. you could separate them in winter and have 2 trees.
Thank you mate
i will remove those lower branches... even the small one you think?
I was thinking about topping her to try and force lower buds... not sure if you guys can see it but looks like 4 tiny buds coming out right at the bottom too so might get them off now
Regards
Wal
Re: Japanese maple?
Posted: January 31st, 2017, 5:51 pm
by shibui
The main trunk is almost the same thickness as the base. Have you considered cutting off the main trunk and leaving one of the thinner side branches? That would give much better taper to the tree. you will need to consider whether the change of angle suits what you want to end up with. If you want a straight trunk you may be able to wire the side branch and move it to replace the upright trunk.
Shortening the trunk is a must. It will certainly force new buds to start growing but I don't think you want those buds near the bottom to grow. Too low for branches and they will add more to the reverse taper if they grow. I'd rub them off now before they get bigger.
Re: Japanese maple?
Posted: January 31st, 2017, 6:03 pm
by wal
shibui wrote:The main trunk is almost the same thickness as the base. Have you considered cutting off the main trunk and leaving one of the thinner side branches? That would give much better taper to the tree. you will need to consider whether the change of angle suits what you want to end up with. If you want a straight trunk you may be able to wire the side branch and move it to replace the upright trunk.
Shortening the trunk is a must. It will certainly force new buds to start growing but I don't think you want those buds near the bottom to grow. Too low for branches and they will add more to the reverse taper if they grow. I'd rub them off now before they get bigger.
Ok i think im following what you are saying, but because ive never done it i dont get how we can cut the main trunk without it looking so obvious thats whats happend... somehow you guys make it blend in so easy
Would i need to cut it in a certain way as to help it blend in more with the base? Hmm hope im making sense
Regards
Wal
Re: Japanese maple?
Posted: January 31st, 2017, 6:43 pm
by shibui
Cut at an angle so the lower trunk tapers into the new trunk.
liquidamber.jpg
Where possible, cut so that the cut surface is behind the new trunk so that you don't actually see the scar. Liquidamber grows quick and heals well so after a couple of years there will be no sign of the cut anyway.
Re: Japanese maple?
Posted: January 31st, 2017, 7:48 pm
by wal
Thank you very much mate i get it now
You are a Gentleman and a scholar good Sir
Regards
Wal
Re: Japanese maple?
Posted: January 31st, 2017, 10:39 pm
by kcpoole
Here is a link to my own twin trunk Liquidambar.
viewtopic.php?f=129&t=13727
Grown from seed ( 2 seeds in the one pot germinated),
I have keep the smaller one pruned much more than the main one to develop different girth between them despite the same age.
Just cut off all but one of those shoots from that are and keep the other one as a sacrifice. Feed heavily and levve to go mad of a full year and that will fix the reverse taper.
You can trunk chop the main trunk and grow a new leader to give taper in the trunk as I i have done with mine.
Leaves reduce quite well and there are a few threads on here to give good advice on them too.
I have a larger one i grew in the ground fro about 6 years. Lifting it every 2 years and trunk chop and wiring all the time.
When ready i will do a progression on that one
Ken
Ken
ps: I have edited the thread title for you too
Re: Japanese maple?
Posted: January 31st, 2017, 10:54 pm
by wal
kcpoole wrote:Here is a link to my own twin trunk Liquidambar.
viewtopic.php?f=129&t=13727
Grown from seed ( 2 seeds in the one pot germinated),
I have keep the smaller one pruned much more than the main one to develop different girth between them despite the same age.
Just cut off all but one of those shoots from that are and keep the other one as a sacrifice. Feed heavily and levve to go mad of a full year and that will fix the reverse taper.
You can trunk chop the main trunk and grow a new leader to give taper in the trunk as I i have done with mine.
Leaves reduce quite well and there are a few threads on here to give good advice on them too.
I have a larger one i grew in the ground fro about 6 years. Lifting it every 2 years and trunk chop and wiring all the time.
When ready i will do a progression on that one
Ken
Ken
ps: I have edited the thread title for you too
Lol i seen that thanks
So you would keep both shoots and use one as a sacrifice or only keep the one to use as a sacrifice and grow new leader?
Perhaps i simply need to read it again and sink it in lol
Regards
Wal
Re: Liquidambar - not Japanese maple?
Posted: February 1st, 2017, 7:39 am
by kcpoole
Keep only 1 branch otherwise more swelling and reverse taper will happen.
I think the junction there is too low to use the second shoot as a new leader. I would cut the existing main trunk a little higher up and develop the next section of trunk from there.
Ken