AusBonsai

Not sure if this analogy would be correct and am sure it has many holes in it but....

I would think a plants reaction to incorrect soil Ph, would be akin to a swimming pools reaction to incorrect Ph.
They both preform best at certain levels.

If you are using good reputable products in the first place. Doing all the right things as are already proven. Repotting reguraly using fresh reputable product again. Listening to the guys around you that are already growing good healthy trees. Trust your eyes and your nose there should be no problem or need. BUT what ever floats ya boats fellas.

anttal63 wrote:If you are using good reputable products in the first place. Doing all the right things as are already proven. Repotting reguraly using fresh reputable product again. Listening to the guys around you that are already growing good healthy trees. Trust your eyes and your nose there should be no problem or need. BUT what ever floats ya boats fellas.

Seconded.

I think that qualifies it completley and is what the experts were meaning in the first place.

Lindsay
Thanks for clarifying that Bretts.
I haven't grown amur maples for years. When I did, they would rush to a premature spring growth then the soft leaves would
burn with the next cold snap. When the hot summer sun touched them they would burn again. I couldn't get any vigour out of them.
Do they grow vigorously where you are?

They are about the first to break dormancy. Ray reckons that is why he grows them. Something to show the punters early in the season I guess. Mine grow pretty vigorously I have not experienced frost burn and they have also been pretty hardy in the heat. Here is one I have been mucking around with a bit. Since reducing all the growth a couple of times this season to start working on the branches it annoyingly slowed down.

A couple of questions for Lindsay,

What size particles are you using in your dolamite? Is it the fine ag grade stuff, or coarser?

Carbonates also bind up iron, quickly making a plant deficient, how do you get around this problem?

I only ask as I use gypsum, at about 1teaspoon to a 15cm diameter pot. This controls sodium from my water. Dolamite is better as it has both calcium and magnesium, and it can be blended for different ratios. Gypsum doesn't affect pH, where as dolamite does (which is why they use it), but the affect on pH is very much related to particle size, which is why I ask.

Paul

I use Coopers Dolamite which is quite fine. The Dolomite lime that Bunnings sells is much stronger and should be used more sparingly.
The dolomite fines do tend to pack the mix a little.
This can be viewed as a negative or a positive when you consider that a better balanced mix will not require as regular repotting.
When I was a kid, the standard professional potting medium for the Nursery industry was Caulfield blue sand. As supplies ended, waste materials such as pine bark were used. Pine bark forms the basis of my mix.
I believe that we have much to learn about pine based potting mediums.
When I prepare new potting mix with pine bark and akadama, I don't include dolomite. After a season, I add dolomite.
There will be a few sequences on upcoming WorldOfBonsai episodes that show the results.
I invite you to take a look at these sequences and make your own choices.
I realize that there are many different mixes in many diverse regions.
We are a diverse community and we will make differing choices.
Cheers
Lindsay

Thanks Lindsay,

The dolomite I have is quite strong, (in that it is high purity carbonate) I use it sparingly.

Paul

Lindsay,

Sorry to be a pest, but I was just wondering if you use organic, or, inorganic fertilizers?

Paul

I try to offer my trees variety at meal times. Osmocote, nitrosol, kendon high k, dynamic lifter, blood and bone, maxicrop and I used Garden Party when it was available.
Cheers
Lindsay

Thanks Lindsay,

You certainly lay on a better spread at your table then mine get.

regards

Paul

The mantra of "The right way" has been a continuing conversation in Australian bonsai for half a century.

Of course, in art there is no right way.

The greatest bonsai master of all time, Masahiko Kimura say's "there is always a better way".

My advice to young people who have been chosen by bonsai is, step away from the safe place named "the right way" and you may discover a creative clearing that is as challenging as it is inspirational.

Dolomite is one choice that you may explore.

There are thousands of others.

Don't be afraid to fail. You will be bound t succeed.

try different stuff

Cheers
Lindsay

lindsay farr wrote:The mantra of "The right way" has been a continuing conversation in Australian bonsai for half a century.

Of course, in art there is no right way.

The greatest bonsai master of all time, Masahiko Kimura say's "there is always a better way".

My advice to young people who have been chosen by bonsai is, step away from the safe place named "the right way" and you may discover a creative clearing that is as challenging as it is inspirational.

Dolomite is one choice that you may explore.

There are thousands of others.

Don't be afraid to fail. You will be bound t succeed.

try different stuff

Cheers
Lindsay

G, day Lindsay I think that last post says it all really. There are many who practice my way or the highway. Only to fail at the last hurdle.
That is why I say that unless I have tried and proven, and not just read or heard. I do not pass it on.
Cheers Pup

The greatest bonsai master of all time, Masahiko Kimura say's "there is always a better way".

He is a smart man that Kimura
I have also asked this question over at BV as I was trying to get to my original source but that has not happened. A quick google search
http://www.tps.com.au/hydroponics/pheffect.htm
tells us what I first thought which is that certain nutrients become unavailable once certain levels of pH arrive. There is mention of chelated nutrients overcoming this with certain nutrients such as iron?
But without any amazing advice to the contrary it seems to me that pH does matter.
There is even mention of fungal attacks
So out with the pH tester and overall no nasty surprises with all the soil coming in well and truly neutral.. Although I did find something interesting.

What would my fast growth method fig soil that is practically pure dynamic lifter read at? That came up somewhere around 8 or 9. That's interesting the fig must be ok with that.
Then I tested a couple of fresh grains of Kunuma. That is meant to be slightly acidic. Yep reading came up only slightly acidic at just under 6 I reckon. I wonder if it will be any different on the azalea potted in Kunuma that I unknowing used dynamic lifter on until I was told it would kill it.
You bet your ass it made a difference. The Kunuma out of the pot treated with Dynamic lifter is on the left. The fresh Kunuma tested is on teh right.
I had not used that much dynamic lifter to start with and I had scraped it off as much as possible after being told it was no good for it. I had noticed a decline in health and made a point of really flushing it out when ever it was watered. The health has returned some so I am very surprised at the reading which is way up at much the same as pure Dynamic lifter at about 8 or 9.
The fresh kunuma is on the right with a reading of I think just under 6.
Hey Ken if you are reading I think this is why the Azalea had an issue with us giving them Dynamic lifter this year.