AusBonsai

hi Glenda

kanuma is used alternatively from akadama because of the ph, the diatomite is a very similar range so there shouldnt be an issue, supposedly azalea like a more acidic soil, but will thrive just as well in diatomite

jamie

Thanks Jamie, wasn't sure about the PH situation, as I said.





Now, if I could find the stuff I would be able to give it a shot with one of the Azalea I have here.

Graeme wrote:Thanks Jamie, wasn't sure about the PH situation, as I said.





Now, if I could find the stuff I would be able to give it a shot with one of the Azalea I have here.

I did pm you earlier this week I am sure, was asking if you would be free this week. pm me your address and I can drop it around when you are free

and yea with the ph I dont think it is a really big deal, I cant see the tree dying just because it likes an acidic soil but is in a medium with a neutral ph
there are ways of making the diatomite more acidic anyways with the right products

jamie

Yep, you did PM me M8, sorry I haven't replied, but you picked the busiest week I have had for a while, sorry.

Next week isn't looking any easier at the stage either unfortunately. Retirement is such a bind.

A note for Graeme,

Neal has done a great job with this tree. The Japanese would next cut back the longer growth and wait for it to bud out more, keeping the TOP well watered. Does the trick ok and you end up with a great Shohin.

But as far as growth is concerned you can get the plant to put out heavy growth with LOTS of water as well as some food. The Japanese also mix their grades of Kanuma to great growing effect. They told me Water, Water ,Water.

I don't use anything other than Kanuma now.

Arthur

akaruhi wrote:A note for Graeme,

Neal has done a great job with this tree. The Japanese would next cut back the longer growth and wait for it to bud out more, keeping the TOP well watered. Does the trick ok and you end up with a great Shohin.

But as far as growth is concerned you can get the plant to put out heavy growth with LOTS of water as well as some food. The Japanese also mix their grades of Kanuma to great growing effect. They told me Water, Water ,Water.

I don't use anything other than Kanuma now.

Arthur

I have Azaleas in both Kanuma and Diatomite, and really cannot pick much between them.
I use Mt Sylvia Diatomite, Which Grant and his tests say has a PH of 8. given this you would have thought Azaleas will hate it, but seems not for me:-)

I have been taking cuttings recently and have planted some in Kanuma, and some in Diatomite to test them so I will soon find Out the truth
Ken

hi guys,

one thing we need to understand is ph will fluctuate from many different things, it might be 8 when we get it but within a few weeks that could change to as little as 5 or 6, so many factors will change this, location, fertilising, elements, water quality and a lot of other things. as much as soil/medium is important I think we can look into it quite heavily and a bit to much, I beleive if the mix you use works for your location and trees, and there is nothing wrong with it and the trees are happy and growing well, well its a case of if it aint broke dont fix it isnt it

Oh I have been growing a small azalea in diatomite for a long time now with minimal attention until recently and it has been very happy and grows strong.

jamie

The Japanese would next cut back the longer growth and wait for it to bud out more, keeping the TOP well watered. Does the trick ok and you end up with a great Shohin.

Arthur[/quote]

G'day Arthur, thanks for the tips, when should the longer growth be cut back? I mean at what time. As soon as some back budding occurs and you can see its pulling through the initial treatment. After a few months when the new growth has hardened a bit and the there has been some time for it to grow a few new roots? Leave it until the following spring to really recover fully?

Thanks Arthur

Cant wait to see it in full flower.........I love Azalea!!

jase wrote:Cant wait to see it in full flower.........I love Azalea!!

G'day Jase, this variety isn't really known for its flowers. They are a pinky red and not that specky. I wouldn't let it have any flowers for a year or two until it recovers and develops a branch structure. Its more grown for the neat small leaves, good for shohin. I'm sure there will be some nice pics popping up soon as the satsuki come into full flower in november though

nealweb wrote:The Japanese would next cut back the longer growth and wait for it to bud out more, keeping the TOP well watered. Does the trick ok and you end up with a great Shohin.

Arthur

G'day Arthur, thanks for the tips, when should the longer growth be cut back? I mean at what time. As soon as some back budding occurs and you can see its pulling through the initial treatment. After a few months when the new growth has hardened a bit and the there has been some time for it to grow a few new roots? Leave it until the following spring to really recover fully?

Thanks Arthur [/quote]

Thanks Neal,
I would now wait till it has become more established and the roots have had a chance to harden off. I think you could then cut back to a 10mm stub and wait for it to bud out quite close to the base of those stubs.

For "everyone" as Neal has found this out already; Satsuki are tougher than you might imagine and provided they get plenty of water and don't stand in it will grow like mad. Repotting, bare rooting and heavy pruning can all be done from around the middle of May right through to the end of November - just keep the frost off them. Search out for Satsuki as they have better growth habits and structure than ordinary Indicas and when you want identification ( not as easy as might be imeagined as there are at least 2,500 varieties registered and probably about the same again unregistered ) give some indication of the size of the flower and a leaf or two.

Akaruhi/Arthur

G'day Arthur, this satsuki pruning from may until novenber, is that applicable to all climates ? because here during the winter months some of them are almost deciduous and all of them really stop growing for some months.
Regards from Craig

craigw60 wrote:G'day Arthur, this satsuki pruning from may until novenber, is that applicable to all climates ? because here during the winter months some of them are almost deciduous and all of them really stop growing for some months.
Regards from Craig

Hello Craig,

To answer your question, I had seen illustrations in Japanese mags of them "doing the lot" ( shaping, heavy pruning, bare rooting etc ) during Feb when Japan is basically frozen, so I asked when I went to Japan. Yes, Satsuki are known for being semi-deciduous in their home climate and they work on them from Autumn through to flowering. They either put straw on the pot or keep them a bit sheltered - a shade house will keep the frost off. Azaleas actually have quite a bit of root movement from around 11 or 12 deg. unlike most other plants which require about 18 and more, as you would know.
They grow by streams in the forrests and have continuous water and a lot of shade. I try to get as close as I can to their natural environment which is well nigh impossible in WA - but I am conscious of their needs.
I don't think we have much of a problem in Oz but I do get quite heavy frosts and take due precautions.
The good thing about repotting etc early is that they have the chance to really power away when they get going in Spring.

Arthur

Thanks for that Arthur, I can now slot the azaleas into my winter potting routine, which makes life just that much easier.
Craigw

Just a quick update, 38 days after the chop and its powering away, new growth all over. Don't let anyone tell you that azaleas are not strong plants