AusBonsai

Hi Neli,

I have found that M. linariifolia back shoot well including on old branches and trunks when cut back hard. I have learn most of my knowledge about Melaleuca from Pup and from trial and error. Pup advises that on most Melaleuca you should always leave some foliage to give the sap a reason to flow to that area.

Your question about taper in branches is more difficult as the answer is so subjective. It depends greatly on the style you are going for, thickness of trunk etc. With Melaleuca I would generally cut branches back to an existing secondary branch rather than bare wood. If you are just growing on stock then cut back to the first secondary branch and repeat the process with the first tertiary branch etc etc. You will also need to make sure that the branch you intend to cut back to is leading in the right direction. You know the principals of what to do and I recommend studying trees in nature to help get your answer.

Regards,
Steven

P.S. I notice that in this comment and other threads you refer to Melaleuca as Melaleuka. Is this a South African thing or just a Neli thing?

I think I got it...Thanks Steven...
I dont worry at the moment about my melaleukas back budding on bare branches...Maybe if they are in bonsai containers they will not be that strong...but for now...they have never failed me.
Maybe some new varieties that I dont know...I have to test first if they back bud on bare wood.

Neli wrote:I think I got it...Thanks Steven...
I dont worry at the moment about my melaleukas back budding on bare branches...Maybe if they are in bonsai containers they will not be that strong...but for now...they have never failed me.
Maybe some new varieties that I dont know...I have to test first if they back bud on bare wood.

Hi Neli , I would think with over 250 and still being named, it is quite possible there are a few you do not know.

I have been growing Melaleucas for 25 years and I am still learning of there idiosyncrasies. There are species that back bud freely while others do not, there are also species that do not like there branches past the parallel. While other grow that way normally.

Some have very fine foliage some have large leaves while others have needles. Some are ground growing prostrate forms, while others grow in fresh water swamps and others grow in Saline estuarine water. The Melaleuca being discussed here is a Hybrid of Melaleuca linarifolia. It has been bred for bright red new growth and the ability to back bud.

I hope this helps you to understand more about Melaleucas. Cheers Pup

Pup wrote:

Neli wrote:I think I got it...Thanks Steven...
I dont worry at the moment about my melaleukas back budding on bare branches...Maybe if they are in bonsai containers they will not be that strong...but for now...they have never failed me.
Maybe some new varieties that I dont know...I have to test first if they back bud on bare wood.

Hi Neli , I would think with over 250 and still being named, it is quite possible there are a few you do not know.

I have been growing Melaleucas for 25 years and I am still learning of there idiosyncrasies. There are species that back bud freely while others do not, there are also species that do not like there branches past the parallel. While other grow that way normally.

Some have very fine foliage some have large leaves while others have needles. Some are ground growing prostrate forms, while others grow in fresh water swamps and others grow in Saline estuarine water. The Melaleuca being discussed here is a Hybrid of Melaleuca linarifolia. It has been bred for bright red new growth and the ability to back bud.

I hope this helps you to understand more about Melaleucas. Cheers Pup

PUP, I know your experience...and respect it a lot...I follow your posts with great joy and always learn something new. For short I trust you! You are the culprit that made me fall in love with melaleuka!
I can not count how many I have and I am still buying them. Just cant resist them.
That is why I said: Some new varieties that I dont know...I should test first if they back bud....Because for you to say that...with your experience....there must be a reason.So!... .I have to be aware , take note, and listen to you!!!!!
Thank You!

Any chance of an update Steven?

Still stalking you on this Mel to inspire my own, less talented attempts.....

Sorry Steve, I missed your request. Here is the latest:

It's been about 10 months since it was cut back almost to bare wood. I now need to get in and thin the foliage (2 x 2 x 2 etc) and work on defining into individual clouds (rather than topiary). I'm also going to do some carving on the smaller trunk to help with the taper.

Regards,
Steven

There is little doubt that this is a cracking tree.
Marked improvement from the last photo you posted.

Only point I would make is that some more visible taper on both trunks would lift it to a higher level.
Completely understand that to achieve this would be a very long term project and based on previous threads no doubt one that you will carefully consider one day?

P.S. I love the "fullness' Of the foliage pads right now.

Thanks for the feedback Boics. I can address the taper (or lack) in the smaller trunk by carving but the main trunk will only come with time (and a lot of it I think).

Regards,
Steven

Well worth the wait Steven! Liking where this is heading. Be interested in your work on the foliage pads. Seems to me to be a bit of a balancing act between getting the thinner, natural style canopies Pup has perfected and the denser versions you occasionally see in the wild (Ok, typically on well watered roadsides!). Denser pads will give you the opportunity to cover up the work on the reverse taper (a couple of thick foliage pads down low to encourage girth on the trunk before ultimately sacrificed?). Getting the negative space to work around denser foliage pads seems to be a challenge which is why I like Peter Adams suggestions for this tree. Doing my best to apply some of these lessons on my own Mel!

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