AusBonsai

Ray,
You use the same wire...to tie the plastic, Just the edges of the plastic (like planter bag) need to face down. It is exactly the same as yours...just the roots are all developed above the plastic, in a horizontal /radial position. Then when You take it out You can still keep it like that, when planting it...But I love your idea..

Hi Ray

I have prunus spinosa that i want to shorten the straight trunk before it bends .when would be the best time to ground layer a flowering tree , how likely is it to be succesful with this type of tree . the straight piece really urks me. I've thought of planting it as a slanting tree as i've been to fearful to air layer but would really like to shorten it . This method appears more reliable

regards
peterb

Neli wrote:Ray,
You use the same wire...to tie the plastic, Just the edges of the plastic (like planter bag) need to face down. It is exactly the same as yours...just the roots are all developed above the plastic, in a horizontal /radial position. Then when You take it out You can still keep it like that, when planting it...But I love your idea..

Neli, the post shows using a pot for the new roots to develop in, so as you say they do develop radially - check out the pictures again, the radial root development is quite nice, and all contained in the upper pot. Using a plastic bag would accomplish the same thing I would think, just using slightly different supplies. If anything, a bag would give less support than a plastic pot, though I'm sure it wouldn't matter much if done as shown as it's sitting on the ground.

Very nice technique! Just a question please. When you separate the air-layer , I see that the tree is in leaf. Does fiddling with the roots not create problems with the survival etc,or do you disturb them as little as possible? It seems as all of the layer soil has been removed ? Thanx

Ps. I forgot. How thick can the layer be. ( Elm and maple ). I tried a trident maple once. It was about 25cm thick and it calloused over. Think I was too careful when making the cut,and not going deep enough. You say that the cut must go down to the heart wood , right? Thanx.

lackhand wrote:

Neli wrote:Ray,
You use the same wire...to tie the plastic, Just the edges of the plastic (like planter bag) need to face down. It is exactly the same as yours...just the roots are all developed above the plastic, in a horizontal /radial position. Then when You take it out You can still keep it like that, when planting it...But I love your idea..

Neli, the post shows using a pot for the new roots to develop in, so as you say they do develop radially - check out the pictures again, the radial root development is quite nice, and all contained in the upper pot. Using a plastic bag would accomplish the same thing I would think, just using slightly different supplies. If anything, a bag would give less support than a plastic pot, though I'm sure it wouldn't matter much if done as shown as it's sitting on the ground.

Sorry Ray...I dont know how to explain well. You get a part of a plastic planting bag...like a flat sheet, cut it like the way the cd is...round flat sheet of plastic with a hole in the middle. Push your tree through the hole if possible and if it is not, cut along the radius, so you can put the hole around/under the ring barked part of it, Slip the wire over the edge of the plastic /the hole in the plastic and tie it just the same way you did. Then do the same as before...It is not hard to do...and I am wondering what advantages can it have, since even without it your nebari is just fantastic.

peterb wrote:Hi Ray

I have prunus spinosa that i want to shorten the straight trunk before it bends .when would be the best time to ground layer a flowering tree , how likely is it to be succesful with this type of tree . the straight piece really urks me. I've thought of planting it as a slanting tree as i've been to fearful to air layer but would really like to shorten it . This method appears more reliable

regards
peterb

Hi Peter,
You should be successful if done in Spring.

Regards Ray

Hi Springbok,

Very nice technique! Just a question please. When you separate the air-layer , I see that the tree is in leaf. Does fiddling with the roots not create problems with the survival etc,or do you disturb them as little as possible? It seems as all of the layer soil has been removed ? Thanx

It depends on the species of tree. The tree you are talking about is a Chinese Elm. There is no problem with removing the soil and planting into new soil. When you remove the layer, soak it in a tube of Seasol mixed at the 25ml per 9 litre rate. Leave in the solution for a least an hour, then pot it.

Ps. I forgot. How thick can the layer be. ( Elm and maple ). I tried a trident maple once. It was about 25cm thick and it calloused over. Think I was too careful when making the cut,and not going deep enough. You say that the cut must go down to the heart wood , right? Thanx.

You would be able to do this on quite thick trunks.

The callousing on Trident maples is very common. It is absolutely critical to make sure that you are down to the hard wood and there is no sign of cambium. You need to use the wire on Tridents. Make sure when you remove the bark it is about 1.5 times the diameter of the trunk.

Regards Ray

Hi Neli,

Sorry Ray...I dont know how to explain well. You get a part of a plastic planting bag...like a flat sheet, cut it like the way the cd is...round flat sheet of plastic with a hole in the middle. Push your tree through the hole if possible and if it is not, cut along the radius, so you can put the hole around/under the ring barked part of it, Slip the wire over the edge of the plastic /the hole in the plastic and tie it just the same way you did. Then do the same as before...It is not hard to do...and I am wondering what advantages can it have, since even without it your nebari is just fantastic.

The only advantage I think is that it would start to spread the roots out in a horizontal direction. If you use this method make sure that there is ample soil out pasted the plastic. You need to make sure that water can get down to the original roots. It may even be wise to give the tree a dunk watering once a week as well as your normal watering each day.

Regards Ray

Good point Ray...needs to be considered...Do You do that with the CD?

Neli wrote:Good point Ray...needs to be considered...Do You do that with the CD?

Hi Neli,
Yes, that's what the CD does. The roots will grow out in a horizontal direction and they will stay fairly close to the top of the soil.

Regards Ray

Thanx for the reply,and info. Don't know what Seasol is though.

Ray M wrote:

Neli wrote:Good point Ray...needs to be considered...Do You do that with the CD?

Hi Neli,
Yes, that's what the CD does. The roots will grow out in a horizontal direction and they will stay fairly close to the top of the soil.

Regards Ray

I meant do You water in the same way when You put a cd?

Springbok wrote:Thanx for the reply,and info. Don't know what Seasol is though.

Hi Sprinbok,
This is a link to the Seasol WEB site. http://www.commercial.seasol.com.au/ind ... &Itemid=32
The information will help you to see what Seasol is made of. You may be able to get something equivalent.

Regards Ray

I meant do You water in the same way when You put a cd?

Hi Neli,
Yes, especially when you first plant the new layered tree. I would give them a dunk watering to make sure the soil under the CD gets wet.

Regards Ray