AusBonsai

When joining clay you really need to do it properly or there will always be weaknesses.
Pieces of clay need to be joined with slip.

The way I was shown is: Add water to some of the clay to make a mix the consistency of milk or thin cream - that is called 'slip'. Roughen the surfaces that are to be joined with something like a toothbrush then apply slip to the roughened areas before pressing the pieces together (sliding them back and forth a little as you press them together also helps the bonding) then let the join dry out.
Even with really good joining the joins will be weaker than solid pieces and your design has a lot of joins Paddles

Does that sound right potters????

Yes, that is what I've been told... I"ve been chatting to a potter from America regularly since before this started, and this time, I'm going to make a solid "base" inner... and then lay the leaves (that I think need to be smaller, ) over that, joining in various ways to the base...

That's correct Shibui and an inner lining would be what I would have suggested to attach the leaves to but you don't have to make them smaller, you could even have different sizes but try not to have too much of a difference with thick and thin areas. Using clay with a lot of grog in it will help.
Penny.
ps:Before we get any alcohol-related posts, grog in clay is usually pre-fired, finely ground bits of clay or sand which, when added to the clay, helps thermal shock resistance and shrinking (cracking) problems during firing.

unfortunately I knew what you ment by grog... but I think I'll have a few drinkies prior to attempting the next pot.... I've got to decide about the feet too...

Hi Paddles
Firstly great idea. you could make feet by bending over a "leaf" so the pot is resting on it. The foot would in fact be a leaf to match the rest of the pot.

Damian

tried that.. it broke...

although, a few leaves "piled" would look reasonable. and hopefully would support.

Hi paddles , all that work , what a shame.
you have to understand clay a bit more , if you want to do leaves then try making them like an upside down leaf . But much thicker, more like thumb thickness, I'm not sure how much weight it was holding prior, but it did look very heavy. so try making them like an arch with a lot more area to support your work.
you also have to remember that clay once bent over doesn't like to be folded back . I know its hard for you, wish we could show you ourselves.
you might look at using paper clay , as it is more forgiving and once its fired it looses some of the weight .
but keep trying
joann

Oooooo all excited again... I've just ordered 20 kg of clay... it will be bought up to me by a friend on the 24th? I shall try again... lol...

so we have tried again... mind you, I'm going to have an issue finding a kiln big enough...

well done paddles.
hope you find someone to fire it soon. make sure you support it well when transporting it to firing place, bumps on roads can do hairline fractures and worse.
congratulation

Well, it's been fired, we've just sat the trees behind for looks atm, will repot come winter. the theory is that I will spray/treat with yogurt etc, and get moss etc growing in the crannys.

Very Nice work and a great Idea! All the experimentation paid off. Can't wait to see it planted and I really like the idea of growing the moss over the pot.

The only thing on my mind is that It's quite stark and I'd be concerned it might overpower the tree unless you can get enough growth of moss to tone it down or do something else.

Cheers
Rick

time tones down many things...