AusBonsai

Ray M wrote:...
From an engineers point of view. The larger the diameter of pipe you run the better. It doesn't matter if it's water the same applies to air pipes. There is internal friction involved and the larger diameter will help overcome this problem.

Regards Ray

Interesting point! So the Yanks have gotten it right: "biggest is best"

We feed our garden retick with 32b pvc pipe into a manifold from that then we use 19mm poly to feed all the drippers for the plants...

For my trees I am building an IBC tank (ugly 1000L square thingamabob) that I'll be hiding behind the small garden shed which will feed my trees only (bought a small Green/Shade house so I can use a misting system (high up to elevate the Humidity) and a general watering system at the base of each tree (or sprinkler more than one at a time) ... but it'll be trial and error (going by my past, more error than trail ).

It's only a mistake if I don't learn anything from it! That's how I've come to see it now anyway...

I must admit I am interested in this Opensprinkler idea! It looks like a pearler

Ray is absolutely right Matty. Pressure really does drop off with smaller pipe. I would use 25mm feed line to the solenoids and 19mm for the spray lines unless you are only putting a few sprays on each line. The more water you try to push through a pipe the more the pressure drops and you really need good pressure to make the micro sprays work properly. I stopped using 13 mm poly many years ago. Larger solenoid valves will also restrict flow less than the smaller ones so maybe try 25 mm valves with the 19mm distribution pipes.

Anyone else out there using opensprinkler,I know Jason loves it and I respect his views but would like a second or ten opinions
as I get a bit sick of buying crap that does not last(not that i am saying that opensprinkler is crap), it is hard to find out much on the web as I click on their link and nothing shows up.I need to do something rather quick as I went out this morning and my cheapo from the big green shed has shite itself and this seems to be the problem with a lot of them and you usually don`t find out until it is too late.
Would appreciate as many opinions as possible.

Thanks Ray and Shibui

I think I will go with Shibui's advice and use 25mm feed pipes and 19mm distribution pipes.

matty-j wrote:Thanks Ray and Shibui

I think I will go with Shibui's advice and use 25mm feed pipes and 19mm distribution pipes.

Hi Matty,
I think that's a very wise choice.

Regards Ray

Paul W wrote:Anyone else out there using opensprinkler,I know Jason loves it and I respect his views but would like a second or ten opinions
as I get a bit sick of buying crap that does not last(not that i am saying that opensprinkler is crap), it is hard to find out much on the web as I click on their link and nothing shows up.I need to do something rather quick as I went out this morning and my cheapo from the big green shed has shite itself and this seems to be the problem with a lot of them and you usually don`t find out until it is too late.
Would appreciate as many opinions as possible.

Hi Paul, There were a couple of other Ausbonsai'ers using OpenSprinkler before me, try a search. I did some lengthy research before diving in myself and decided at the time it was the best option to suit my needs - being open source was a plus for me as well as I've always been a big supporter of the open source source software model.

As for reliability - I think the first step to a reliable watering system is to move way from the all-in-one valve/timer units and set up remote solenoid valves. The ones I used were about $20 each from the big green store and so far have been reliable. That separates your timer/programming unit from the wet/mechanical side of things. My OpenSprinkler controller is located inside the house on the wall and runs off a mains power socket.

Thanks for the info Jason,are these things easy enough for a computer dill as it seems like you and Ken are computer guru`s as I do not understand what open source means. What are the advantages over say a HunterX 4 station one at approx 160 bucks
Also what is the approx price and "where do you get it"
I am sick of buying "CRAP", some of my tree`s are well over 160 bucks so I think it is a good investment to get something decent.
Paul

Paul W wrote:Thanks for the info Jason,are these things easy enough for a computer dill as it seems like you and Ken are computer guru`s as I do not understand what open source means. What are the advantages over say a HunterX 4 station one at approx 160 bucks
Also what is the approx price and "where do you get it"
I am sick of buying "CRAP", some of my tree`s are well over 160 bucks so I think it is a good investment to get something decent.
Paul

Probably should start an OpenSprinkler thread like Ken suggested - but anyhow. Yeah if you can log into Ausbonsai - you can program and use OpenSprinkler. You configure it via a web browser(or the free mobile phone app). I don't have first hand experience with other programmable sprinkler controllers but from what I saw when researching, this one is very simple and flexible to program in comparison. It does need to be set-up on a home network initially, but its no harder than setting up a home internet router.

This what I purchased: http://openlab.com.au/shop/open-sprinkler-assembled/

This is just the controller unit - you will need to set-up the rest of your irrigation system using 24v solenoid valves but that's the same for all these systems using solenoids.

If your a bit if a code geek you can modify and create your own code to add additional functionality or perform more advanced tasks, but if not, the out of the box features are more than adequate. Opensource basically means the software is free from licensing costs and you can modify/improve the source code if you wish.

Not sure how it compares with the Hunter X, but from a quick glance, the OpenSprinkler controller by default can control up to 8 stations and is easily expandable to 16+, also its biggest strength is its network enabled, I never go to the controller to trigger or configure the system, I can do it from anywhere via a mobile phone or internet browser. I'm at work now, if it was a particularly hot day and I was a bit worried about my trees I could log in right now and trigger the system to water them quite easily.

Thanks Jason,very helpful in your replies but maybe a bit dear for me,time I get it delivered.
Would still be interested in what others are doing as I need to do something this week,a few trees look a bit sick after the other one #$&* itself.
The cheap ones do not seem to last as the water usually gets in them.

I have been inspired by this OPENSPRINKELER system, but being reliant on TV weather or radio weather reports is inefficient not to mention inaccurate! I don't know where they get the temps from for our area but they are off by a minimum 5-7 degrees (lower) if not more!

So while we're on the iPhone turning on and off the retake, how would we get good and accurate temperatures ... well, I found something in England:

You'll find the summary here;

They have a Horticultural set-up here; and

Details about the probe here (even saw a rain station...) These don't look terribly expensive but I haven't converted this into OZ$ as yet ....

CoGRedeMptioN wrote:I have been inspired by this OPENSPRINKELER system, but being reliant on TV weather or radio weather reports is inefficient not to mention inaccurate! I don't know where they get the temps from for our area but they are off by a minimum 5-7 degrees (lower) if not more!

So while we're on the iPhone turning on and off the retake, how would we get good and accurate temperatures ... well, I found something in England:

You'll find the summary here;

They have a Horticultural set-up here; and

Details about the probe here (even saw a rain station...) These don't look terribly expensive but I haven't converted this into OZ$ as yet ....

Check out http://www.wunderground.com

http://www.wunderground.com/q/zmw:00000.1.94312

This is what OpenSprinkler uses for weather feeds - mine uses data from a private weather station located in a neighbouring suburb so I know the real time info is reasonably close to my actual conditions in my backyard.

My issue is that we have only one Govt. Weather Station and they give the temps here locally. They're located at the windiest part of our Township and it's literally cooler than the surrounding area, particularly due to the high ground water there (reclaimed flood plains for the Airport)... They are usually off by 5-7 degrees compared to my house... That is why I was interested in the add on for the whole watering system.
If I had some realtime data, how much more effectively would this Opensprinkler system. Yes I can extrapolate the weaker station info, but sometimes I just want to have some time off! No thinking! And still know peace... I have lost enough trees!


Cheers
Elmar

Even if it is raining, I still have my system come on regardless.
My mix does not stay too wet anyway so unless you were particularly worried about water usage then thta is a care free way to work.

Ken

kcpoole wrote:Even if it is raining, I still have my system come on regardless.
My mix does not stay too wet anyway so unless you were particularly worried about water usage then thta is a care free way to work.

Ken

Well, rain is not really the issue in Hedland!! I mean when it rains, the drops are as big as they get, but it doesn't rain very often, usually around cyclones.
My issue seems to be more the hot wind, so I've finally discovered (yay, there is hope). Our weather tends to get mid to high 40s for 7-8 months of the year and then it goes into winter where it gets into the high 20s....


Cheers
Elmar

CoGRedeMptioN wrote:

kcpoole wrote:Even if it is raining, I still have my system come on regardless.
My mix does not stay too wet anyway so unless you were particularly worried about water usage then thta is a care free way to work.

Ken

Well, rain is not really the issue in Hedland!! I mean when it rains, the drops are as big as they get, but it doesn't rain very often, usually around cyclones.
My issue seems to be more the hot wind, so I've finally discovered (yay, there is hope). Our weather tends to get mid to high 40s for 7-8 months of the year and then it goes into winter where it gets into the high 20s....


Cheers
Elmar

Ok then have it come on schedule as you need for your hot season, then reprogram for your colder months.
I just turn mine on manually if needed in Summer. ( when I am here), being able to do so remotely will be a bonus.

Ken