AusBonsai

Very difficult to tell from a 2d picture but I think you are on the right track. I suspect you will need to cut back the branches you are going to leave for the framework a bit more but lets wait and see what it looks like after your first round of cutting.

OK, so my maple is nearly fully void of leaves and it's nearing time to do some chopping and snipping.

Since most of the leaves are gone now I am looking at the tree differently.

I think the nebari on the above image is best viewed from this perspective but now I think the front of the tree is the previous back. I'm just still a little unsure where to cut back. Especially the large untappering trunk. I'm thinking that I should cut it down just above the two small shoots as indicated on the video.

I think I would like the tree the size it is at the moment but it must be chopped to produce some good taper and ramification.

Any suggestions would be appreciated

Peg indicates new front.

TapaTalk compressed the video, here is a better link http://youtu.be/BPnnsDVl3Rs

https://vimeo.com/131949473

Nice video

First thing first, I really think you should be working on a new nebari for the tree. The 2 swollen roots have a good flare, but they are not doing anything for your tree design wise. The good thing is though, you can use the flare they've given you already to work on a wicked wide nebari. I'd recommend putting a wire tourniquet on tightly, about halfway up the roots as you can see here, and then burying the tree deeper so the new roots that grow are under the soil line. I'd say check it every few months to see how it's progressing, and in about ~2 years depending on the vigour of the tree, you could have a new root system.

Your next point of action really depends on what form you are going for, wether it be an informal upright, or a broom. Either way, there are some significant cuts to be had. For an informal upright, a trunk up about halfway up the current trunk is where i'd be looking. For a broom style, you probably want to take a long hard look at your primary branches, and cut them far back to their first couple of shoots, and wire those upwards and outwards.

I recommend Peter Adams 'Bonsai with Japanese Maples' book. It really contains all what most people need to know about working with Japanese Maples. Scrub up on your terminology and basic techniques first though. I might recommend a read of the bonsai4me website too.

Thanks Truth,

I'm going for broom style. I have been looking at my nebari and wondering what I should do. Do you mean use a tourniquet vertically to slice them?

What terminology are you referring to?


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No slicing, using the tourniquet method to ground-layer for a better nebari. Like this: http://www.bonsai4me.com/AdvTech/ATNebari.html Just remember to put the wire on tight to cut into the cambium and disrupt the nutrient transfer during growth. That's what causes the new roots.

Terminology such as the words i've used in this post and many things related. The Peter Adams book is more aimed at intermediate level bonsai artists, not quite the most beginner friendly book. Then again, this stuff is not hard to learn really

Check out thei excellent howto in the Wiki
https://www.ausbonsai.com.au/wiki/index. ... ound_Layer

Ken

Homer,

Sorry for your loss mate. I've only just stumbled on this thread tonight and I want to chime in here with a bit of advice. As a total beginner in bonsai you are quite likely to kill a few trees as you learn. We all do. You can do this in many ways. Too much water. Too little water. Too much sun. Too little sun. Too much fertiliser. Too much root work. Disease. A branch can fall from a garden tree and nail it. The wind/dog/kid can knock it out of a pot and it dries out. Etc etc. the list goes on. To grow bonsai successfully you need to overcome all these calamities!

With some trees you will, and with some you won't. That's the game. Which brings me to my concern here. As you want a tree in memory of your mum, perhaps as a total beginner you should consider spreading your bets and planting up a trident maple forest. First of all, tridents are much easier to grow and keep healthy than Japanese maples. Secondy, by having a forest you spead your bets over many trees, this way, if you lose one for some reason you don't lose the entire symbol of memory to your mum. The other option would be to dedicate a small collection of trees to her memory, also in effect spreading your bets.

Anyway, that's all I wanted to say. Cool idea you have, and I wish you all of the very best whichever way you chosoe to go.

Cheers

Really nice post andrew, appreciate it. Good idea about the forest, as a mater of fact I have just done that! I bought some on this forum. Mixture of Japanese and tridents.

I'll see how they go.

I'm still keen on reducing my large Japanese maple. Maybe I'll be easy on it and see how she handles it.





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So i carried out my first big chop today on my Japanese maple.

I would like some feedback on my job. Was it too much or was it too little?

How does my styling look?

I am a little concerned about the large vertical non tapering trunk on the right rear of the tree. I have chopped it but it has no lower branches to create another leader from. Should i reduce it even more?

https://youtu.be/uRL43JLmp34

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http://youtu.be/uRL43JLmp34

Doesn't seem to be loading??

Ah, fixed it. Had to make it public.

Hey homer. Videos are a great way of getting a more 3d look at your tree. However asome pictures uploaded to the site labelled front, back, left, etc will give us a better chance to comment on your tree and give advice. Like "you need to reduce the first branch in the right" as an example. Also gives some of the guys a picture to do a virt or make in colour where to chop.

It looks like it could be cut back a lot harder though. Wi

Thanks dansai. Sorry the front is when the video starts.

Here's an image.



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And another



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Homer911, I'm looking at the last pic and I presume that is your front.

The nebari can easily be formed at any later stage with thread grafts so that problem is not so urgent. The trunk however has problems as I see it. Here's what I would do with this tree: The right branch is too straight and cannot (or should not) be used. (also you cannot have 2 apices only 1) Cut it off completely flush with the trunk.
Now you will have 3 heavy branches basically coming from one spot. You should keep 1 or 2 at the most and remove the others at the base. The one (best) remaining should be cut back short. (no longer than about 80mm)
Now you have the foundation of a good tree for the future. When you repot you can tilt the tree to the right so the apex is directly above the base. Or you could leave as a slanting tree.
Don't be impatient and try to develop the tree with the existing branches as you will be disatisfied with it eventually.
Do it once and do it right.
Have a look through BT or other places for branch formation techniques.

Hey Homer,

Sometimes Mikes suggestions can seem a little drastic, but he knows his stuff (just look at his trees).

Grab a sheet and hide the sections he recommends to chop, tilt it and see if you can see what he sees. Even take a few photos with the sheet and chuck em on here.