AusBonsai

Ok we are just over a week on from the seperation. The layered section hasnt skipped a beat, not even a bit of wilt on the hottest of days...It is still in the tank for extra humidity but I have started to open the top a bit more over the last few days since I noticed bud movement... here she is as of this morning..time to give it another turn (been doing this about every 3rd day) The base has thrown even more buds from everywhere all up & down... it will be left to grow on till next spring when selection can begin for its rebuilding. I love it when an experiment works, even more so when it gives 2 great new pieces of stock from what was not the easiest thing to do anything with... Will Update as & when there is more to report.

Matt

Edit:- spelling

Nice work Matt

WIN.

Very impressive, Matt. It must be so satisfying to see the results of your work especially when a first bud pops after such major surgery.

Ron

I posted a pic of the base on another thread so thought i should update here as well.

Almost a month on & as you can see the stump is just thumping it out hardcore... The top section is also throwing new growth & no sign of backsliding, gives my heart a lift to see it so. Somehow a nasty cattlepiddler got into the tank.. I could see droppings but couldnt find him for 2days, in which time he took out a fair bit of the upper new shoots. He chicken poop now Matt

Matt,
after reading through this post, my conclusion is that even though your layer hadnt thrown roots but calloused over you went ahead with the chop anyway.
This choped piece had many branches and leaves to keep the tree alive and growing.
Strangley enough i have 3 layers on my plum last season that hadnt grown roots but calloused over with no bridge. Not to mention same with the pear tree also. Now this season the callouses have doubled in size.
So if i was to chop them all off and plant them, they should power on still.
Then correct me if i am wrong ,next season i may have roots.?
Will it be too late now to do that.

Petra wrote:Matt,
after reading through this post, my conclusion is that even though your layer hadnt thrown roots but calloused over you went ahead with the chop anyway. Yep
This choped piece had many branches and leaves to keep the tree alive and growing. Yep
Strangley enough i have 3 layers on my plum last season that hadnt grown roots but calloused over with no bridge. Not to mention same with the pear tree also. Now this season the callouses have doubled in size.
So if i was to chop them all off and plant them, they should power on still. Maybe
Then correct me if i am wrong ,next season i may have roots.? Maybe
Will it be too late now to do that.Maybe

Hey Petra,

I chose to seperate instead of leaving it on the tree for a number of reasons.
1/ impatience (never good in bonsai)
2/experience tells me some species will callous but not root unless forced to... to force them you have to seperate and make it fight!

The growth left is needed for food production to go into root growth. If I had completely defoliated then the tree has to use stored energy to not only regrow those leaves but also try to put out roots, the combined energy drain would most likely kill it pretty quick.

This layer is being nursed in a fish tank for increased humidity ( i also mist it twice daily) and I have heavy shade cloth over it as well. As the new growth started to extend I thought to remove half the roof to allow more light & air, it only took 1 day for the tree to start showing signs of stress so back on with the covers.

As this is a pyrus & you have one aswell they may be one of those species that needs to be forced, same with plums I suspect, you could remove yours but you would also have to nurse them. In the past when I have done layers that calloused but didnt root, I seperate at the same time I would do repotting if it was an established tree. Almost all of them have shot away & gone on to grow into healthy strong trees with good roots under them. (most of those that did not survive where in the very early days when I had little practical experience)

This tree has been a big experiment, something I seem to be doing more & more of nowdays. I have always loved challenges hence why my collection is full of them with very few regular suspects... Also sharing the tank is the cedar layer (also an experiment in technique) I removed to discover all bar one root had rotted off & some out of season hardwood cuttings (waste not want not prunings of unusual stock).

Matt

wow, thats really interesting.
As there is plenty of growth and new shoots showing, i will take the plunge.
Since my established trees are huge then i have nothing to loose. I will give both trees ago and leave the rest on for now.
Most my potential bonsai's are from experiments. Just like you Matt, i too, love a challenge.

Now you HAVE to get some pics & post them up for us to see. I for one look forward to hearing how you go.

As well as the challenge aspect, nowdays i like to put my theories to test instead of just theorising (the scientist in me coming out)


Matt

A few weeks ago when I noticed the stump had started to not only turn for autumn but also bud again straight away. It did the same last year so i decided to make an initial selection of branches. The front right hand branch is too high but there wasnt one where i wanted, I gave the dormant eye a light tap & it is now starting to move.

When it was repotted another couple cm of trunk was found along with a lovely flaring base into 3 main roots. I removed one of the upper 2 roots that had growth & the other has been left for carving possibilities later. Overall height of approx 32cm with a nebari of approx 30cm. It is planted in a 50cm rectangular chinese pot. (Next time I get to melb a trip to Orient Bonsai is in order for a load more larger pots) It needs alot of carving then I am thinking it would be best back in The ground to get the growth I want to carry the rest of the design (more heavy cutting & carving after a few years growing out). I am still aiming for a compact tree of 30-35cm but the trunks need some serious growth to match up and roll over.

Comments, critiques suggestions are all welcome, it is already throwing a heap of new buds all over and come spring it will be very easy to completely change the whole image again.

Matt

After an attack of carvitis.

Wow Matt! You really went to town with the Dremel!!!

I like the result - especially the front view. You've given me renewed hope for my Pears.

Thanks for sharing!

Fly.

hehehe cheers Fly...

I had to stop when the right hand side started getting a bit wobbly (not much wood left inside)...I carved so deep its now suckering inside the cavity Once it has a decent set of roots again it will be planted back in the ground for a fvew years to thicken up the new trunks & branching. The more carving

Matt

Great work Matt!!! Hard to stop once you get started.

Have you put drainage in the bottom of that carve out. So the water doesn't pool. You don't want it to rot out & rot out the rest of that awesome tree.

Nick wrote:Great work Matt!!! Hard to stop once you get started.

Have you put drainage in the bottom of that carve out. So the water doesn't pool. You don't want it to rot out & rot out the rest of that awesome tree.

Hey Nick,

There is a few spots that water can drain out...

Have a few trees round my place that rot is actively encouraged in and one that is home to a nice colony of white ants... why fake it when I can let nature do the styling As long as growth is strong they will not affect the live parts.

Matt