AusBonsai

blackwoods should have them for sure, the only thing i would be careful with is they can be a little pricey, although james might be able to get them for cheaper as he worked there and probably knows some contacts.

if all else fails i will go see mitch at AIS, he usually gives me a good deal.

jamie

Bretts wrote: Like I said I don't have a price for them but now I look I can find 16 ER's for under $15 online but you would need to do some searching.

No worries about up,loading the video and pictures for you Jow anytime!

Hey Bretts,

I haven't been able to really get a good look at the pic or video just yet as i do most of my net on my phone which a: doesn't play videos very well, and b: has a small screen which makes viewing pics and any working vids difficult...

When i get a chance ill have a full view of both when i get to a real computer. Hopefully they will give me a good idea of its capabilities.

$15 each sounds much more like something i would give a go. i found a few from china at similar prices but i dont know how to tell if they would seat correctly on the shafts. I was really hoping that the seco ones would be cheaper because they have been proven by you to fit the shafts neatly. I wonder if it is the same case with the $15 ones? Is it a standard profile?

How do you think your cutter would go at making a straight channel? how deep do you imagine it would cut before getting to max depth or coming into contact with with the shaft/ dremmel body?

The reason i ask is i would like a cutting head that could cut 5 or 10mm deep x 3-5mm wide channels for approach grafting. I currently do this with hand tools but it can be difficult on hard woods or smaller trees....

What is the cut surface of the wood like after you use the cuter on it? Does it 'cut' or 'tear'? I have a couple of heads that remove wood well but leave jagged edges.

hopefully we can work out a cheap yet functional alternative to the smaller commercial heads on the market.

jow, those heads would get you around a 5-7mm depth of channel by about 4mm wide maybe a touch more, cant comment on how neat it would be wether a tear or a smooth cut, if it was spinning fast enough i cant see why it wouldnt make it smooth. to get more depth it would need a larger head which in turn will need a larger shaft.

all the bits should be of a standard size as they are made to fit laethes which should all use standard sizes aswell.

jamie

So they should all seat on the shaft as well as bretts says his does?

I just don't want to buy a few just to find they don't fit having just spent the price of a commercial bonsai one on 2 or 3 non working ones.....

Hey Bretts,

Got into work a bit early and had a look at the picture you posted and the video. The Pic looks good! it looks about the right width and as Jamie said it looks like it would cut to a nice depth.

I couldn't really tell with the video, but do you find it ever 'kicks' when using it? I find a few of my aggressively shaped heads tend to grab and 'kick' from time to time....

I guess it is coming down to me having to try one soon and hopefully there is one in the pipeline as we speak... I will report back with my results.

Cheers,

Joe.

Jow it has been stated by a machinist that the centres are all the same that is what the 16 stands for. That is the best advice we are going to get. As you are aware carvers can and do kick back this is no different. You don't see it in the video because I am using it in a way that avoids this. Look closely at how much wood is removed cleanly in 2 minutes
Any carver will leave jagged edges or fluff at the exit point of the carver. That is why I change the angle of the carver in the video so it comes in from the edge.
What carvers are you using now that give you jagged edges?
Where are you now sourcing one and at what price?
I already know the results

Bretts wrote:Jow it has been stated by a machinist that the centres are all the same that is what the 16 stands for. That is the best advice we are going to get. As you are aware carvers can and do kick back this is no different. You don't see it in the video because I am using it in a way that avoids this. Look closely at how much wood is removed cleanly in 2 minutes
Any carver will leave jagged edges or fluff at the exit point of the carver. That is why I change the angle of the carver in the video so it comes in from the edge.
What carvers are you using now that give you jagged edges?
Where are you now sourcing one and at what price?
I already know the results

Hey Bretts,

I have a few carvers and i find that those with fewer teeth bite and kick much more than those with many cutting teeth.....

Hopefully they are all profiled the same internally as yours. I hope that not just the internal diameter is the same but also the 'washer recess' that is on yours that ensures a tight fit....

Joe.

i look forward to trying one out....

i have found the cutting head for a touch over $9 a piece at the moment. i can probably get it down further for bulk quantities.

will get back to you. its a little better than $50 a head though hey

Sounds perfect!

Keep us posted Jamie - I'd sure be interested in one or two at that price.

I found a number of them on Ebay in an online shop in the US. The Sandvik ones were about AU$8.00 each and I can get 10 sent over for AU$7.00, so including posting them to members here, they'd work out about the same as what you can get them for.

Jamie if you are going to order some, mate can you order me three, thats a good price.
CHEERS ROD...

no worries guys, i am sure the postage wont be much, still waiting back on an email but if i could get some numbers of who wants how many that would be a good start to a bulk purchase.

put your orders in now and i will sort it out

jamie

Hi all. I was going to take Jamie up on his offer of being able to get thread cutting inserts
but.... just scored these brand new sumitomo ones off ebay for $9....bargain. I've been looking for something to put in the dremel with a bit more bite than the usual ones

Cheers Gott

Hi alpineart,

Thank you for your initial thread. I do have a very good angle grinder -- made in Hungary.

I just did not know you can use it with a blade! This is new for me.

(But that will not mean I have nerves to use a blade on it yet! It spins so fast.)

Regards.

keep the guard on it... or if you dont have it on keep ya hands clear!

dont wear thick gloves while using an angle grinder, especially if it dont have a guard, the only type i would use if i was wearing gloves would be the tight riggers gloves