Making an oval pot - a potter tale retold

[Asus101]

So why have you done this?

Not quite sure what you are referring to? Please clarify.

Regards,
Paul

the work you did with the sure-form tool.

[pjkatich]

Although I am not a potter and I feel no need to change that. I have found this to be one of the most absorbing post on this site.
Thank you Paul it is a pleasure to read each instalment with baited breath.

Now bloody well get on with it you Bludger

Seriously I am enjoying your work and teachings Pup

Hi Pup,

Thanks for the positive feedback.

Patience mate, all good things take time.

Stay tuned for the next installment.

Cheers,
Paul

[pjkatich]

the work you did with the sure-form tool.

Asus101,

The sure-form tool is like a small cheese grater. I use this tool to quickly remove clay from along the bottom edge of the pot and to refine the pots final profile.

I hope this helps.

Cheers,
Paul

[mudlarkpottery]

Hi Paul. You don't join the outside edge of the foot?
Penny.

[pjkatich]

You don't join the outside edge of the foot?

Penny,

Not with a mechanical join like the backside and the ends. I will usually just let the slip set up a bit and then rub it back into the seam.

Regards,
Paul

[pjkatich]

Once the foot joins have set up, it's time to complete the construction phase of this project.

First, I will remove the pots from their bags and begin the final construction by detailing the feet on each of the pots. I apologize for not having any photos of this part of the process, they were lost during a recent bout of technical problems.

However, I will try to explain. I normally use my flexible ruler, a knife, and a needle tool to complete the detailing. The detailing is done on the ends of each foot and I try to detail the feet to match the general feel of each pot.

The following photo shows the first pot after the feet have been detailed along with the tools needed to complete the construction.

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The next step is to add the tie-down holes as shown in the next photo.

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I do this with my handy, homemade hand drill.

Next I will bevel the edges (inside and outside) of the tie-down holes with a round, ribbon tool as shown in the next photo.

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Lastly, I will put my mark on the pot as shown in the next photo.

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The other two pots are finished off using the same procedures and the construction process in complete.

The next set of photos shows a 360 view of the first pot at this stage:

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The next set of photos shows the second pot at this stage:

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And finally, the third pot at this stage:

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That's all for now.

Any questions?

Cheers,
Paul

[Pup]

Yes when will they be for sale how big are they what color ( colour ) will they be what are the freight costs insurance??
Oh by the way are they allowed into our country.?

Well you did ask did you not

Thank you for that Paul I do have a? when will we see them glazed?
Pup

[pjkatich]

Yes when will they be for sale how big are they what color ( colour ) will they be what are the freight costs insurance??
Oh by the way are they allowed into our country.?

Well you did ask did you not

Thank you for that Paul I do have a? when will we see them glazed?
Pup

Patience Pup, Patience.

I am not finished yet.

The title of this thread is "Making an oval pot", and in my book that means a finished oval pot.

So, please check back for the next installment.

Regards,
Paul

[anttal63]

bravo paul!

[pjkatich]

As you can see, the time line has moved forward several weeks.

The pots have been slowly drying since the last installment. During the drying process, the pots are turned upside down on their rims with the foam insert in place. I covered them loosely with plastic during the initial stages checking on them every other day. As they approach the bone-dry stage I will change from plastic to newspaper as a cover until they are completely dry.

Once the pots are bone-dry it is time to move no to the next stage - leveling the feet.

The following photo shows the tools of choice - a large, plastic laminate table, a spray bottle with water, and a sponge.

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Next, I will spray some water on the table top as shown:

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Then, with the feet down, I will move the pot back and forth over this area in a figure eight motion until all the feet are level. A word of caution, you need to keep the pot moving during this process. If you stop, the pot will stick to the table top and you will have a mess on your hands. Finally, I will use the sponge to clean any remaining water or slip from the feet of the pot an set it aside to dry for a few hours.

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If you remember, earlier I mentioned that we needed to keep the left over foot pieces because we would need them later. Well it is now time to put those pieces to work. These extra foot pieces will be used as spacers between the feet during the firing process. I do this to support these areas so they don't sag. At this point, each spacer piece is adjusted to fit between two of pots four feet.

The next photo shows the first pot, the four spacers, and the tools of choice for this part of the process - a metal knife and a sure-form tool.

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As shown in the next photo, each foot is individually adjusted for a good fit.

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The next photo shows how the spacer is used.

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The next photo shows the bottom of the pot and how the spacers will fit when the pot is loaded into the kiln.

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And finally, this last photo shows the pot with the spacers ready to go to the kiln shed.

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That's all for now.

Any questions?

Stay tuned - more to come.

Cheers,
Paul

[mudlarkpottery]

Hi Paul. Do you bisque with the spacers inside not underneath? Might they warp a little? And nothing under the middle where the base might sag during the gloss firing? You have lots of wire holes too - I thought I had a lot till I saw how many you put in.
Penny.

[pjkatich]

Hi Paul. Do you bisque with the spacers inside not underneath? Might they warp a little? And nothing under the middle where the base might sag during the gloss firing? You have lots of wire holes too - I thought I had a lot till I saw how many you put in.
Penny.

Penny,

You are getting ahead of me here with your questions.

The spacers are under the pot during the bisque and the glaze firings.

In general, I do not put spacers under the middle of the slab. In fact, I encourage a bit of a slump in that area to help with drainage.

Cheers,
Paul

[pjkatich]

Now it's off to the kiln shed.

The following photo shows the kiln used for the bisque firing. It is an electric, microprocessor controlled kiln.

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The next photo shows the first pot loaded into the kiln.

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The next photo shows the first pot with the spacers in place.

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The next photo shows the second pot loaded into the kiln.

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Unfortunately, there was an accident during the loading of the second pot. A piece of kiln furniture (the shelf support) which I had placed on the top edge of the kiln was knocked of and it struck the second pot. I inspected the pot and with the exception of a dig on the inside of the rim could not see any visible damage to the pot itself. However, the spacer for that side of the pot was broken into five pieces. As I said earlier, partial or total failure is always close at hand. The pots are at their most vulnerable stage at this point and I am holding my breath on this one.

The next photo shows the third pot loaded into the kiln.

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Once the kiln is finished being loaded, the top is shut, and the kiln is programmed and the pots are bisque fired to cone 04.

Stay tuned for the next installment.

Have a great day.

Regards,
Paul

[Steven]

Another great installment Paul!
This tale almost has everything... suspense, mystery, thickening plot and informative too! When will you weave a love story into it?
Regards,
Steven

[Pup]

Comedy snide remarks all part of a story which I find very interesting.

Now for every one, you know when you want a hand made pot and you wince at the price now you know why.
You get a bloody long winded story that takes for ever.
Last time I asked my Doc i was told the average with what I have is 12 years I have gone 26 so I might make it to the end eh!! Well done again Paul Pup