AusBonsai

Hi all,
Here is an update photo of the tree.
The tree is looking quite happy. With the cold weather we are getting now, the growth has certainly slowed down. Where I live the nights are quite often down to single figures now. Being an Elm I'm sure the leaves will start to die off.

Regards Ray

Those roots look a little too manufactured in my opinion, they're too perfect. That probably won't stop me trying it though. They are still excellent trees, glad to know you can tinker like that to get improved root structures.

Hi Beano,
There are a lot of roots form using this method. The good thing is you don't have to keep them all. You can also bind groups of them together to form larger roots. There are a lot of possibilities once you have some roots to work with.

Regards Ray

Look what came in the mail today... I found them online from an orchid supplier. The only issue, or possible issue is the size of the holes????? What do you think Ray, holes too small?
Thanks again for the offers.

Hi bonsaibeginer,

bonsaibeginer wrote:Look what came in the mail today...

20130611_193341.jpg

20130611_193410.jpg

I found them online from an orchid supplier. The only issue, or possible issue is the size of the holes????? What do you think Ray, holes too small?
Thanks again for the offers.

The holes are perfect mate. They should work very well.

Regards Ray

Hi Bonsaibeginer
Can you tell me what web sight you found those Grow baskets on.
I would really appreciate it. Thanks.
Damian

Found them

Hi Ray
Mate I've got a question about the wire on the layer and how you bind it. I'm assuming the wire is tightened around the trunk, so wrapping the ends and twisting them together, but does it matter if I get a gap between the wire and the top cut? Where I twist the wire together I find a gap at the first twist, am I not tightening enpugh or does this not matter?
I hope this is clear enough...

Thanks for the info you give out.
Grant

Hi Grant,
I fully understand what you are saying. All you can do is push the wire up against the top cut as hard as you can after tightening the wire. It should work fine. One point I should mention is that the diameter of the wire I use is about the thickness of the depth of the cut. eg. If after cutting down to the hard wood the depth is 1.5mm from the outside of the bark to the hardwood, I would use 1.5mm diameter wire. I hope that makes sense.

Regards Ray

Cool thanks for the reply.
Grant

Hi everyone,
I did a demonstration/clinic at the Newcastle Bonsai Society Inc last weekend. I decided to take the ground layer that I did for this thread to Newcastle and remove the layer, to show the members the results.

Here are a few photos of how the layer went.
I'll see how it goes now and see if it's worthwhile trying to create a bonsai from the tree.

Regards Ray

bonsaibeginer wrote:Look what came in the mail today...

20130611_193341.jpg

20130611_193410.jpg

I found them online from an orchid supplier. The only issue, or possible issue is the size of the holes????? What do you think Ray, holes too small?
Thanks again for the offers.

These are the ones I've used since june last year. Mine are used in the ground (covered with mulch) but even the few I have spare on the shelf outside show no signs of fading or weakening. Been going well for me but 6 months isn't long enough for a definitive uv rating though but I'm happy for what I use them for.

Sorry I thought it would copy the pics across in the quote... I don't have those photos anymore

Hi folks,
I've updated the WIKI page on ground layering. How - Why - To Ground Layer

Regards Ray

Ray M wrote:Hi Grant,
I fully understand what you are saying. All you can do is push the wire up against the top cut as hard as you can after tightening the wire. It should work fine. One point I should mention is that the diameter of the wire I use is about the thickness of the depth of the cut. eg. If after cutting down to the hard wood the depth is 1.5mm from the outside of the bark to the hardwood, I would use 1.5mm diameter wire. I hope that makes sense.

Regards Ray

G'Day Ray,
please forgive my Daft nature, but I'd like to get a better handle on this (rather simple) concept - tying of the cut with wire: - my understanding is that it "discourages" reconnection between the two cuts (top & bottom of the 'ring-barking') by creating a physical barrier on the hard wood. [got it!?!]
I get the thickness of the wire measurement ~ need to allow room for the new roots to grow out of the top layer. [got that, too!?!]

BUT the 'ring-barking' still allows nutrients to flow from the roots to the leaves via the [?] Cambium [?] but not in reverse (due to the cut); if then we tighten the wire too tightly, would that not crush this Cambium layer starving the leaves and killing that branch/top of the tree!?! - How do we gauge that? Or is it sufficient to get the wire to be just tight enough to lay flat against the cambium? Not to "choke" the cambium but the be just and additional barrier?