AusBonsai

Pup wrote:Here are some of the re potting, and taking of and putting down with Honey. Honey is used to help strike the cuttings it also stops disease it is anti fungal.
I find it very helpful. This is not the largest cutting I have struck. I will take pictures of the two that I have kept. Using this method I get a strike rate of 90% I sort the out and keep the ones I want.
Pass on the rest Asus

I will take a picture of the two I have kept. Then I will post them here. Cheers Pup

Hi Pup, Just after a bit more info on your cutting technique if you don't mind? In the picture where you are applying the honey, it appears as though you have ring barked the bottom of the cutting. Is that correct? Info on cuttings that I have come across state to either cut diagonally on one side, or cut a wedge shape with one side having a steeper angle. If my eyes aren't deceiving me I can see the method you use having an advantage as it would shoot roots radially like an air layer does. If this is the case, can you please give me a bit of info on how you ring bark it? eg do you scratch the cambium layer?

Thanks Pup,

Luke

Luke308 wrote:

Pup wrote:Here are some of the re potting, and taking of and putting down with Honey. Honey is used to help strike the cuttings it also stops disease it is anti fungal.
I find it very helpful. This is not the largest cutting I have struck. I will take pictures of the two that I have kept. Using this method I get a strike rate of 90% I sort the out and keep the ones I want.
Pass on the rest Asus

I will take a picture of the two I have kept. Then I will post them here. Cheers Pup

Hi Pup, Just after a bit more info on your cutting technique if you don't mind? In the picture where you are applying the honey, it appears as though you have ring barked the bottom of the cutting. Is that correct? Info on cuttings that I have come across state to either cut diagonally on one side, or cut a wedge shape with one side having a steeper angle. If my eyes aren't deceiving me I can see the method you use having an advantage as it would shoot roots radially like an air layer does. If this is the case, can you please give me a bit of info on how you ring bark it? eg do you scratch the cambium layer?

Thanks Pup,

Luke

I am at a loss Luke, if you enlarge the picture it will show that I have peeled the bark from the end of the cutting completely around, or as you put it ring barked it. So yes, and I do find there is more chance of radial roots forming.The cambium layer is always removed in cuttings and air layers.
Cheers Pup

Hi pup, I have a young callistemon in a grow box I'm working on. I see what you mean about them being very apical dominant, almost all of the new growth is up top! My question to you is should I be pruning the growth at the top, both to encourage back-budding and increase taper at the base?

Here are some up dated pictures not quite all open but gives you some idea. Australian trees Australian style!! You do not need long branches to get flowers They should be ready for our show on the 20th 21st of this month in Fremantle Town Hall gold coin entry.

Pheonix let it grow then prune it if the top get to big just take it off and strike it. As shown in this thread.

hi Pup,

As usual your callistemon at the collection is not flowering yet; and only just barely starting to elongate inpreparation for setting the flowers. I am always amazed at the difference in timing here compared to Perth,

Grant

This thread is full of great advice Guys and some Fantastic Bottle Brush
If I ever dig them, and I will, this will help so much.
Mum and Dad dont like native trees So its up-to me

holy wow!!
stunning trees Pup ! I really like the smaller cutting at the begining of the thread
just shows you dont need to wait years to get a nice looking little tree
now time to go take as many cuttings as i can from some wild specimens
Once again thank you for the huge amount of information in this thread Pup

KyBonzai wrote:holy wow!!
stunning trees Pup ! I really like the smaller cutting at the begining of the thread
just shows you dont need to wait years to get a nice looking little tree
now time to go take as many cuttings as i can from some wild specimens
Once again thank you for the huge amount of information in this thread Pup

You are welcome, by the way that tree, the big one in the oblong pot, is for sale at $1800,00 plus freight to any one that wants it.

Great thread and timely advice for anyone growing Callistemon or considering growing them.

Regards,
Steven

Am due to give mine its initial styling, hopefully this weekend

Have been letting it grow for the past year, but think its time to see what I can make of it. Will be attempting a natural style

Had a look at it last night, and was covered in ants, the buggers had built a nest up the side of the trunk... kind of termite like am really building a grudge up against these bloody ants lol

great post and information about our pretty native

What a stunning tree!

It blows my mind how truly gorgeous our natives are.


Cheers
EZ
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Pup wrote:Here are some of the re-potting, and taking of and putting down with Honey. Honey is used to help strike the cuttings it also stops disease as it is anti fungal.
I find it very helpful. This is not the largest cutting I have struck. I will take pictures of the two that I have kept. Using this method I get a strike rate of 90% I sort the out and keep the ones I want.

DSCN0556.JPG

DSCN0557.JPG

DSCN0559.JPG

Cheers Pup

OK, so when I find a tree that I would like to take cuttings from, but I'm 20 minutes drive away from home … how would you maintain the cuttings on the trip back to ensure success? I have used water and that didn't do it for the Ficus cuttings (or it was me... )...

CoGRedeMptioN wrote:

Pup wrote:Here are some of the re-potting, and taking of and putting down with Honey. Honey is used to help strike the cuttings it also stops disease as it is anti fungal.
I find it very helpful. This is not the largest cutting I have struck. I will take pictures of the two that I have kept. Using this method I get a strike rate of 90% I sort the out and keep the ones I want.

DSCN0556.JPG

DSCN0557.JPG

DSCN0559.JPG

Cheers Pup

OK, so when I find a tree that I would like to take cuttings from, but I'm 20 minutes drive away from home … how would you maintain the cuttings on the trip back to ensure success? I have used water and that didn't do it for the Ficus cuttings (or it was me... )...

What I've done before, and worked for me (lasted a few hours at least) was just take a larger cutting, then when you get home, cut it down to the right size and pot it up.

Am sure someone will be able to expand on that though

Jason wrote: What I've done before, and worked for me (lasted a few hours at least) was just take a larger cutting, then when you get home, cut it down to the right size and pot it up.
Am sure someone will be able to expand on that though

The ficus I did was a large cutting and I chopped it into 5 parts (improve my chances by increasing the numbers … so I thought) … so that didn't seem to work. BUT, it could be many things I guess … I recall my mother taking Bougainvillea cuttings and putting them in a bucket of water to prolong the cuttings life (like flowers I guess). That's what I did, a larger cutting kept in a 1.25 bottle with water until we got home; then chopped them up; brushed on rooting powder (my kids are giggling next tome ... ) and then placed each cutting into Seed Raising Mix and covered with the bottom half of a 2 litre bottle; watered twice a day …

… time for Round 2!