AusBonsai

I purchased this from a nursery last year as I liked the movement in the lower trunk. I have not done any Bonsai with maples before and would love some advice on options and direction.
I thought I could chop just above the first branch or chop a few nodes above the first branch and use it as the first branch and train a new leader. Or another option if someone has a better one!

The other thing I wanted to consider was taking some aerial layers. Maybe around the bunch of branches further up.
So, some questions;

Is now the right time to make layers, and does this mean I need to leave the tree until next year before I can do a repot of the base? I haven't repotted this tree at all and have no idea what the roots are like.

How many layers can I make on the tree?

How far from side branches should I make the layers? Although I suppose that depends on final size of the intended tree.

Will new roots form from the cambium between nodes? Or will they come mainly from the area of the node?


I am in no rush to have final trees from this stock, or expect any to be show stoppers. I am interested in them for learning experience and some autumn colour as I grow mostly natives.

Hi Dansai

Your tree lacks taper at the moment, and I have a lot of trees in a similar situation at the moment. Here is an article I read recently that explains pretty well how to develop taper on deciduous trees. One thing to remember though is to seal all cut/scars with cut paste to minimise risk of infection, and to speed up healing. https://www.bonsai4me.com/AdvTech/ATdeve ... bonsai.htm

As for the air layers, I would have a browse through wiki https://www.ausbonsai.com.au/wiki/index.php?title=Layer

Its up to you where you start the layer, some trees have a nice fork which can potentially make a twin trunk, whilst others are only suited to taking parts of branches. Depending where you are located, start the layer around Melbourne cup, and remove on Australia day (only if there is enough roots to support the trees nutrients needs.

I think you could get away with re-potting now (or in a few weeks if the buds aren't quite swelling yet) but I would minimise root pruning if you are planning on taking layers on the top of the tree. Usually as I am sure you are aware, you need to remove some top growth if you remove a substantial amount of roots to try and balance the required nutrient load put on the remaining roots.

I hope that helps. If anyone else can add (or detract) from my suggestions, I wont be offended

You could put a few layers on it, 2 on the tunk above the first branch ( which will become the leader). and maybe a few on the top branches too.

Being North NSW, I woud be repotting now and if you want you can put layers on now where you are.
In Sydney I put layers on year round and have had no troubles . just take a little longer.
If they are on soon you can take off early summer and the concentrate on fattening up the stump.

Ken

Thanks Ken and Luke,

So I take it the root prune wont affect the layers too much and that if I do the root work now, maybe place it in the ground, put on the layers, remove them when I have roots, hopefully by summer, and as Ken has said I can then concentrate on the trunk.

Can I expect buds popping below the first branch if I do the layers? Or will they only come after the layers are removed?

Should I cut back the long lanky growth after the root prune?

Thanks again

If you are putting on layers then I woud not cut back the branches.

Put in the ground if you can as that will accelereate the stump growth
You may not get back buddiing until you take the layers off.

Ken

Put on 3 layers and did a repot into a larger pot. Roots where pretty messy as you can imagine with a nursery stock that's a bit rootbound. So I thought it was easier in a pot at this time and will plant in the ground after layers removed. Do I need to wait until next winter or can I do it in summer?

Would have taken some pics as I went but my camera was dead and my phone not with me.