AusBonsai

Here is another one from the Birthday group viewtopic.php?f=131&t=12452&start=15#p131422
I was thinking of trimming the top back to redistribute energy to lower branches. Maybe try some cuttings! Then air layering the top off and subsequently lowering the tree.

The base I am unsure. The graft is evident and there is reverse taper. I'm wondering about surface layering. Can I try to induce roots at the site of the graft where there is already some flare from the graft? There is also a small shoot below the graft, very weak, but I'm thinking if everything gets cut back and it gets a bit more light it may be able to become a sacrifice branch.

Anyone ever worked with theses? It seems to have some character. Needles are quite small, but big spaces between branches.

Any suggestions anyone?

Anyone with some experience of these?

Will they back bud?

Can I ground layer to produce roots at the graft where it is swelling?

My limited experience with spruces when I lived in Sydney is that they can't be relied upon to shoot when cut, unless there are obvious, visible buds there to do so. Cuttings need to be on bottom heat and preferably misted until roots form. Most cultivars are grafted, as I would say yours probably is. I can see two possibilities, the first one is as a formal upright without the strict branch placement and the second possibility is tilting the trunk 45 deg to the right and only keeping the bottom left branch to become your tree to work on. Remove the top from there up, completely or leave only a short stub to jin, and shari down the trunk. Hope all that makes sense. When you say you live mid nth coast NSW where is that and are you on the coast or inland with cooler nights in winter?

Thanks Hackimoto

Yes it is gratfed. I live near Nambucca Heads about 30 mins south of Coffs Harbour. Winter nights are cool, not very cold, and only the occasional frost. I just read that P. orientalis likes cooler areas!

When is a good time for working on them in regards to cutting back, trimming and repotting?

When I had Norway Spruces I would repot and root trim, if needed, about now in August. Do not touch the roots if the new growth has emerged any more than a spot of green at the tip of the bud. Cut back just prior to re-potting and you might have to put it under light shade in the afternoon summer sun from December to March.

Thanks again Hackimoto. I will post some pics of my progress soon.