AusBonsai

We all know that whether it is a black cat or a white cat; it will still catch mice.

I thought we should start a thread with different advice from respected teachers that are either contradictory or opposite to what we have heard or been taught before; but nevertheless it works.

I will start with;

1)Removing copper wire from JB Pines.

Cut or Unwire?

Unwire all? Cut all? Cut only the heavy wire and unwire the light wire?

2)Removing wire on JB Pines.

Before it cuts in? Once it has started to cut in? Once it has cut in by about 1/3rd the thickness of the wire but not further than more than half the thickness of the wire?

3)How long can you leave wire on JB Pines?

Grant

Never bare root a Leptospermum

MattA wrote:Never bare root a Leptospermum

Matt, have you tried that with L scoparium?

lackhand wrote:

MattA wrote:Never bare root a Leptospermum

Matt, have you tried that with L scoparium?

Yes I would like to know. I don't tend to "bare root" Leptospermum but mostly because I don't have to(Seed grown by me).

Grant

You cant repot and root prune in the middle of winter. Then again it is a warm part of the country.

Ficus Maples Elms Conifers and Natives. Never worked with L, scoparium, but I did watch CJ Leo, root prune one in May 2011 at the Fremantle AABC convention.

Cheers Pup

lackhand wrote:

MattA wrote:Never bare root a Leptospermum

Matt, have you tried that with L scoparium?

Yes, perform all work underwater, if the roots dry at all your cooked, then use the flooding method to get them powering on again.

MattA wrote:

lackhand wrote:

MattA wrote:Never bare root a Leptospermum

Matt, have you tried that with L scoparium?

Yes, perform all work underwater, if the roots dry at all your cooked, then use the flooding method to get them powering on again.

Do you wear a wet suit and goggles to do that? I would pay money to see it!

Grant

MattA wrote:

lackhand wrote:

MattA wrote:Never bare root a Leptospermum

Matt, have you tried that with L scoparium?

Yes, perform all work underwater, if the roots dry at all your cooked, then use the flooding method to get them powering on again.

Well that goes against everything I've ever heard, but then I've never heard of the underwater method. Sounds like it's time for an experiment. Now, where did I put my wetsuit? How much are you offering for pics Grant?

Grant,
If you need wetsuit & goggles the tree might be pushing the size range just a bit
Make a real offer & I will consider growing this damned species once more...

Karl,
I tried with L.scoparium repeatedly & all met the same fate... when I picked up a piece of pure potential I determined to find a way to repot without losing it (long before the internet & forums) I struck cuttings off it & tried all sorts of things. I eventually learnt the following from an old nurseryman(nonbonsai) for another species that is particularly difficult to repot & after a bit of playing around made it work. I suggest you try with cuttings first & when your confident it works for you move up to decent stock. Its surprising how fast those cuttings can become nice little trees with annual repots too
Use a large shallow tub with enough water to allow you to move the roots around & into the new pot without touching air. Do most of the root prune as per usual then into the water to remove the medium, you have to be gentle, the roots are fine & fragile. Settle the tree into the pot & then lower the water level to just above the pot, this makes it a bit easier to then get the new mix in, be extra careful to get it in & around all of the roots. Water every 3-4hrs till new buds start showing, reduce to every 6hrs for 2wks, then twice daily for another 2wks, after this you can go back to normal watering.

Another tip I was given & have tried on difficult species for reducing the rootball, leave the outer part alone & only remove the mix in the area that will be your eventual pot size, backfill & then remove the outer part the following repot season.

Thanks Matt, that is solid gold. I'll definitely be trying it out sometime soon. Found a local nursery that sells small starts for $3.50, so even if I run out of cuttings I should have plenty to practice with. Hopefully I won't need too many before I get it figured out. I have two L scoparium in the shohin comp and I would love to get them into decent size pots by the end of the comp, but they definitely won't be my first two experiments!

I'll add some cats to the pile too. Aluminum vs. copper wire. I notice a lot of pros prefer copper, but I have read that they are the only ones that use it, and it's only because it's what they're used to. Others say copper holds better and is always preferred over aluminum. I don't have enough experience wiring to say either way, so . . . Thoughts?

Thanks Matt,

That is brilliant advice and experience and well worth a go.

grant

Karl,

We have a Japanese professional here at the moment and he certainly says Copper for pines and junipers and aluminium for deciduous.

Copper for holding strength on the branches and he will leave on up to 4 years and it is cutting in; sets better.

grant

Another benefit of copper is the aesthetics. It is much smaller diameter for the same holding capacity, and when you apply lime sulphur it tarnishes so you can hide it very easily.

Grant,
The way it was explained to me at the time was that the roots do not cope with being in contact with the air as they are so fine they dry almost instantly and death is the only result. I find it interesting that many bonsai growers in their search often ignore the best source of horticultural knowledge, the commercial nurseryman & specialist production growers.

I prefer copper over aluminium for its holding strength, the colour combined with smaller guage are also a plus. Sometimes I will cut it off others unwire, all depends on the guage, branch in question & species.

Great idea for a thread, look forward to hearing other black & whites

Is the underwater trick only for the L scoparium? I have not had problems repotting or root pruning other leptos.

Grant