AusBonsai

I got this from Bonsai South on the trip to the city for $45.
I found what I think is the most pleasing trunk base with decent root spread that should improve in time and lucked out with a great new leader that did not even need wiring. Removed most branches and as it is said that this species will back bud profusely if cut back hard in late winter I should get plenty of options to start building the branches for a middle aged elegant formal upright.
I will give the roots a good work over in a month or so. There is some negative taper at the first branch junction from branch worling but I think with plenty of growth this will not be an issue and it does add great taper to the point above this.

1. repot.
2. sit in water.
3. fert heavy.
4. ??
5. profit.

Thanks for the help Aus. I usually check bonsai4me for general info when I get a new spiecies. It was thier notes about Pruning;
"Hard pruning can be carried out in late Winter; this commonly results in prolific budding from the trunk." that got me busy on it at the moment maybe a couple of weeks early but I can't be that patient all the time

http://www.bonsai4me.com/SpeciesGuide/Taxodium.html

I don't think I will be looking at profiting from this one. I have wanted one of these for a few years now so I expect it to be a keeper

If you want it to thicken up sit it in water and try recreate a swamp.
Would be nice to see a flat topped swampy in aus, would be the first I would imagine, as everyone styles them like a pine.

No offence Aus but I will follow the experts advice first Now where did I leave that fly squatter

Although Swamp Cypress are able to adapt to wet, swampy soils it is not necessary or beneficial to stand them permanently in water.

Hi,
If it was mine. I would be cutting if off above the first branch,and use the first branch to form a new apex.
Plant it in a form box or the ground for one or two years. Lots of fert and water. And stand back..

Gib

Maybe but I am not after an informal upright with major taper. Like I said I am after a middle aged elegant formal upright. The finished hieght ratio will be about 1:8 at the moment which sounds fine to me for the stature I am after and I should have no problem keeping it about that as it matures.

Bretts wrote:No offence Aus but I will follow the experts advice first Now where did I leave that fly squatter

Although Swamp Cypress are able to adapt to wet, swampy soils it is not necessary or beneficial to stand them permanently in water.

Do what you want. I have sat mine in water for 2 years and its tripled in girth. I was a pencil sized grafted tree when I got it, and it was about 12 years old.

I have had plenty of trees triple in girth from that size in two years and they did not have to be swamp cypress (which is a fast grower) sitting in water.
Get another two put one in water and grow one the way Harry recommends and see which one grows faster.

[quote="Bretts"]I got this from Bonsai South on the trip to the city for $45.
Hi Bretts ,if you want to blow the trunk out below the first branches removed , simply slice vertically from the branch nodes to the base of the trunk and into a thick root .The best procedure is to slice all the way to the hardwood at say 3-6-9-and 12 oclock all at the same height , then slice 4 more cuts starting 50mm below the start of the first cuts in between the first 4 all the way to the roots resulting in 8 cuts . Don't root prune but simply tease the roots out to give maximum spread for uptake of nutrients to heal the wounds .The bark will conceal the slices and the trunk will pump up to 50% in 1 season . The flare at the base will astonish most people in a matter of months.
I use planter bags 350mm round to blow 20mm trunks to 50mm in one season .They only swell where the cuts start and finish Place the bag into a large bowl and fill to the top of the rootball with a solution of Dynamic Lifter desolved in water . Continually lift the bag out on a weekly basis and pour the solution on top of the soil and place back into the bowl ,this continually power feeds the tree with Maximum nutrients .When the solution is diluted or reasonably clear add a handful of dynamic lifter and continue the process .Start power feeding after the first flush of Spring foliage has appeared , by next Winter you trunk should be twice the size . I have used this procedure very sucessfully on Redwoods .You can't drown a Baldy or rot the roots but you can kill it without moisture .Hope this Helps .Cheers

Well I found it worked for swamps, after all England is a lot wetter than it is here.
oh and I believe Mr bebb used to have swamps growing in the off run drains.

Alpineart...Would this method work well with Metasequoia?

I love to see a photo of how the scaring heals. I have seen this tried on pines and the scars never really go away.

Webos wrote:Alpineart...Would this method work well with Metasequoia?

Hi Webos , you bet your lttle left one it does . All the redwood respond very well however you cant leave a redwood permanently in water like the Swampy 3 days in 2 days out and you will double the trunk in the same time frame .Cheers

Jow wrote:I love to see a photo of how the scaring heals. I have seen this tried on pines and the scars never really go away.

Hi Jow ,i will takes some pics of a swampy and a Dawn Redwood done last season . Tomorrow and upload to this post . Cheers