AusBonsai

I don't know how many people have had a go at thread grafting but every time I have I haven't been really happy with the result. The problem for me is that the irritation of the introduced stem right through the trunk or branch is a real irritant to the tree and causes quite a swelling both where the new branch comes out, which is ok, as well as on the opposite side where the thread was inserted, which is not. This symmetrical swelling looks like reverse taper and is most unattractive.
So I've come up with a new way of doing thread grafts - just from the one side. Yes doesn't make sense, but there are photos and that's why I call it insertion grafting. Maybee I've stolen the idea but don't think I've seen it done anywhere?

To start here is a Qld small leaf fig with a space where I want a branch.
and here is the place where I want the new branch.
The graft material - the scion, is prepared in advance on another small tree. You could do this from a shoot on the same plant.
You can see a small shoot that I have reversed 180 degrees and wrapped in string to hold it there. I did this a week or so before the graft.
Once I take the string off you can see that the stem is quite healthy and unbroken.
The next step is simply to drill a hole into the trunk where I want the branch and insert the scion.
Then a tie wire and sealer.
The other reasons I like the insertion graft is that you don't have to strip the leaves off the scion and it so is working straight away. Also the hole can be drilled to a size which is an immediate tight fit. This means that you get union quicker. And finally you get the right alignment immediately and the graft is quite strong right from the start which isn't the case with approach grafting.

Here is a picture of the same technique on a swampy where I have inserted two new branches.
Cheers

Great idea, thanks for sharing. I'll keep this in mind next time I need to put a branch somewhere for sure. Do you have any photos of a finished graft after separation?

Looks like a great idea. Keep us posted on the results! Ash

Aren't you a little clever dick. I don't this has been done before.

Like the idea of this graft looks likely to succeed.

I would love you to keep us posted on this method especially if it is successful. It could be problematic though, with brittle branches ? as they would snap on the bending. I like this idea though and will try it on one of my figs.

Here's one I did on a litty pilly a while ago - perhaps 2 years ago. You can see it is clearly younger material and the swelling around the junction but it does not look abnormal.
The bending of the shoot can be a bit tricky. Sometimes the really young material can be snappy and when a little older has more substance to it, but then needs a little massaging. Another approach is to take a side shoot and bend it back so the bend then is only through 90 degrees.
I'm also trying another method of just placing the tip end of a shoot or small branch directly into the trunk prepared hole. I'm hoping that when the side buds develop, the one close to the trunk will get incorporated. If this works it will make the whole process so much simpler. Tree's vascular structures don't have non return valves like we do in out veins so it may be possible to reverse the sap flows in a short section to make this work. This trial is on a swampy.

Cheers,
Happy Potter

Steve
Thats a really grear idea cant wait to try it
Regards Steve

Hi bonsaipotter,
That's a great idea. The results on your Lilly Pilly look very good. I find it very encouraging for bonsai in Australia when we see people trying new things. Good on you for experimenting and thanks for sharing.

Regards Ray

wow. thanks. I tried my first threadgraft on a fig a month or so ago, and have been disappointed for the exact reasons you mentioned (swelling, reverse taper look etc). this method gives me hope. Will love to see some progress photos once it heals up.

thanks again!

How long roughly before the graft can be seperated from its roots?

Thanks for the encouragement everyone. I expect a pretty quick result with these grafts and will post updates.
The usual visual sign is when the part going out is heavier than the part going in and there is callus formed at the junction. With good growing conditions right now and no slowing of the scion through defoliation, incorporation should be only a couple of months. Someone suggested to me that it should be called a "hairpin insertion graft" - seems about right.

Here's an update on my insertiopn grafts from back in November.

Going through the peak of the summer heat the scions just stopped growing and I was starting to think they had failed. But with the cooller weather and the start of our autumn growth flush here in Brisbane they have burst into vigorous growth and showing all the sings of having taken. With another 4 or 5 weeks of growth they should be in a much stronger position.
I really like the way you end up with a branch in the 'normal' position relative to the trunk rather than the orientation you would have with an approach graft.
Cheers,
Happy Potter