AusBonsai

Hi Guys,

This is more of a general question after looking at how far back some of the larger elms and maples are cut back before they rebudding etc

I've seen some really nice larger elms but never considered grabbing them due to lack of lower branches etc, but the trunks where great!

So the question is how far can you cut them back to force back budding etc? without killing them?

Regards

Daniel

Depends. If the tree is very healthy it will back bud anywhere above the roots. I've had Seiju elms backbud at root level. But if the tree is weak (diseased, been excessively pruned etc), it may not backbud where you like. If very weak it may die. But generally speaking it should be fine for a low chop.

Usually to a viable node / branch is the best option.
As I've heard many times before generally don't prune beyond green to be safe but on deciduous tree's they "should" bud from a node.

Most elms will produce a heap of buds all around the cambium where the trunk has been cut (and usually quite a few from the remaining trunk as well) so you can cut these back as hard as you like.
Maples usually only grow shoots where there was once a node but little seedlings have plenty of nodes in the first 10 cm of the trunk so they will almost always produce new shoots when cut back really hard as well.

There are plants that will only produce shoots from where there are green leaves (pines, cedar, etc) but the ones you have listed can be cut back really hard without any fear.

My question is when is the best time to chop these?

Cheers

Drac0 wrote:My question is when is the best time to chop these?

Cheers

As with nearly all deciduous bonsai, chop them just as the new buds begin to break in Spring (or late winter if you live in a warmer part of Aus).

Right now, assuming the tree is healthy and growing well, Elms could be cut back to anywhere, Tridents back to just above a dormant bud.

Cheers,
Mojo

As with nearly all deciduous bonsai, chop them just as the new buds begin to break in Spring (or late winter if you live in a warmer part of Aus).

I have found that maples tend to bleed quite badly when cut back just prior to budding, Dusty Unless you have also root pruned). I try to cut either early winter or after the leaves have hardened - late spring through summer.
Mojo is right about cutting maples back just above a dormant bud but if the trunk is a bit older you cannot see the buds anymore so cut anywhere and after the shoots have grown cut the stub back to make the top tidy.