AusBonsai

I got some bad wiring scars on my juniper, best way to fix this? I know it's going to take time but what's the right way going about it?

Hi mate,

Best is to avoid deep scars like this. But on Juniper it should heal quickly, so not much to worry about. When the growing season starts it wont take long at all for the scars to callous over. Not much you can do though anyway just keep up the normal routine of feeding and watering.

-Mo

This is actually a new plant to me I've had it a day noticed the wires a bit tight so took them off and that's the outcome. I'm new to fertilizing and not exactly sure what to use as so many people use different fertilizers and so many ways it's really confusing

Juniper will bark up quickly and will grow over in a year or 2

Re Fertilizing, the key is KISS
I use Liquid Once a fortnight on ALL trees when actively growing.
I add a handful of Neutrog pellets on the soil surface of all tress so that they get a bit ever time I water.

I think pup once said something like, It matters not what fertiliser you use, but use it regularly

Some people make a big song and dance about using a particular fert on individual trees at different times, but for me that is far too time consuming but if it works for them, then Yay!

Ken

I remember someone else saying on here just buy whatever is on special that week, that way you end up with something different all the time and they all have different levels of micro-nutrients

MoGanic wrote:Best is to avoid deep scars like this. But on Juniper it should heal quickly, so not much to worry about.

+1 it will result in "interesting" bark in a few years. I've seen at least two references to DELIBERATELY getting wire to bite on junipers for this effect.

Depending on the type of Juniper, wire burn often helps to develop character. I am presently experimenting with leaving copper wire on two Juniper permanently. On other trees, I have also allowed wire to cut so deep that the wire is almost not showing on the surface anymore. I removed the wire and allow the tree to continue to grow. It causes callousing, which is rather interesting. It also thickens the branches and trunk very quickly because of the callousing. The wire marks close rather quickly leaving very interesting and thick bark.

Most trees will recover if allowed to grow strongly, well hydrated and fed.

I agree, no one fertiliser regime works for everybody. Some species definitely do respond better to some fertilisers at different times of the year. Also, if you want better flowers and autumn colours, certain nutrients do contribute. I use pellets, liquid and 2:3:2 slow release. I even give my figs, olives and cedars a bit of 2:3:2 slow release during winter. Not a lot, but they seem to respond well to this. Superthrive once a month. Not complicated. Although I have a schedule for fertilising, I normally do not keep to it. Regular feeding is the key, BUT over fertilising is lethal, so liquid fertilisers are generally the safest to use if not comfortable with the use of fertilisers.

Yeah very new to fertilizing, I was going to go to bunnings get some powerfeed and Charlie carp, I've been told mix them together and fertilize once a fortnight when watering does this sound about right?

Pezz95 wrote:Yeah very new to fertilizing, I was going to go to bunnings get some powerfeed and Charlie carp, I've been told mix them together and fertilize once a fortnight when watering does this sound about right?

I use one each fortnight. Charlie carp one fortnight / week, Miracle grow / power feed the alternate.
never tried mixing them so cannot comment

Ken

Okay I'll go by that thanks ken! (:

gerald randall wrote:

Depending on the type of Juniper, wire burn often helps to develop character. I am presently experimenting with leaving copper wire on two Juniper permanently. On other trees, I have also allowed wire to cut so deep that the wire is almost not showing on the surface anymore. I removed the wire and allow the tree to continue to grow. It causes callousing, which is rather interesting. It also thickens the branches and trunk very quickly because of the callousing. The wire marks close rather quickly leaving very interesting and thick bark.

Have to disagree with this. I think leaving wire on trees is wrong and never leads to attractive branches, only difigured ones. (but I guess beauty is in....... blah blah)
The only time I would consider it is when trying to ''roughen up'' lower trunk area on black pine and even then I would never leave wire on permanently.
Also wire marks do not ''callus over''. New tissue is formed below the wound and pushes it up. The marks will remain for years (unless it's a very rough barked thing) Remove wire as it ''Just starts'' to mark the branch and rewire if necessary.

Pezz95 wrote:Yeah very new to fertilizing, I was going to go to bunnings get some powerfeed and Charlie carp, I've been told mix them together and fertilize once a fortnight when watering does this sound about right?

Powerfeed already has fish emulsion in it - I dont think adding more will accomplish anything?

Treeman

I agree that the norm is not to leave the wire in the tree. Having said that, it does not mean that it can't be done. It is done by some growers in Japan and China. Not as a standard. The technique which I have seen is to take junipers which are a bit more than pencil thickness and bend them dramatically. Very close turns. The trees are then field grown for a couple of years. The wire is never removed. The effect is a very gnarled trunk surface, which looks very dramatic. They have done this for decades and the effects are rather impressive. I can't say what this does for the longevity of the tree.

I have experimented on this. Initial stages. Only a few seasons. What happens is the wire seems to irritate the tree and it develops large bumps and strong growth over the wire. It does not push the wire out as it is copper and copper does not give easily. So it in fact grows over the wire and the bark is starting to fuse in many places. I can imagine that this is not a traditional approach and to many traditionalists it may seem to be unkind to the tree. All it does is irritate the tree to thicken and create some character. As you said, it is in the eye of the beholder. What it also does is thicken the trunk a lot. I have done the wiring up to the point at which I intend cutting the trunk. How I get the upper part to look as aged is something I am still to decide. Still experimenting on the basic technique.

Cheers

rewire the affected areas with opposite twist and leave for a couple of years--