AusBonsai

I have never really used any pest control on my trees. I have had the occasional issue with scale and cottony cushion scale but dealt with them without the normal pest control sprays. I did use a can of White Oil last season to get rid of mildew on a rose bonsai and I used that on figs with scale as well. I have worked more towards keeping the trees as healthy as I can thinking that lady bugs will take care of the occasional spider mite I see on my trees.

It is one of my missions for the year to try and get a better understanding in the use of Pesticides. I have thought it possible that bugs may be doing more damage than I realise so I plan to use such things as pest oil and confidor to prevent bugs I may not see.
Jow suggested Rogor for pine bud mite that is an issue at the moment. That is a Systemic pesticide which I now know means that it does not have to come in contact with the pest to kill it.
I was planning on learning to use pest oil and confidor after being recomended by Grant. Confidor states it is an insecticide with Systemic action. Is this different to being a true Systemic such as Rogor..
It makes sense that even Pesticides that are in the same group could have varied effects in different circumstances so if Cofidor is similar will it still work against pine bud mite.
Thanks for any help.

Rogor is a very full on pesticide. It will defoliate most deciduous trees, so use it with care. I have tried a bunch of things to get rid of those mites and found that rogor was the only thing that did it satisfactorily. They are a pain to kill.

Thanks Jow
I better search for some especially since the pine most affected has been nursed back to health since I got it almost a year ago. It may not take a new threat.
This sevin was recomended as the most effective on a website about pine bud mite
http://www.bayercropscienceus.com/produ ... sevin.html

My chemical cabinet is starting to look alot like my Nans used too.

For what ever reason i have found that those mites tend to target weak trees. I always get them on those trees that are stressed or have had heavy work done on them.

FIRSTLY; EVEN IF JUST SPRAYING WATER YOU SHOULD WEAR THE RIGHT GEAR ie Long sleeves, soft hat, goggles, gloves, boots, breathing mask; The works.

Chemicals are nasty so be carefull!

I have used Confidor and Pest Oil as a cure all and preventative for a long time and dont seem to get too many problems. Aphids, Mealy Bug, Scale, Red Spider all seem to give up trying.

A friend in Canberra had an infestation of mites in a PJ Fig and the only thing that cured it was Natrasoap(now called Insect and Mite Killer). He had tried all sorts but nothing else seemed to work. I have not had such a case of Mites yet.

I am trialling Natrasoap and so far so good. It is rated low toxic.

Grant

Thanks for the help Grant. I hope to have the healthiest trees on the block this season.

Just saw this thread and thought it might be a good time to ask if anyone uses Lime Sulphur on their plants?
Leong recommends it's use in several sections of his Ficus Bonsai in the Temperate Climate book and I'm thinking I will have to splurge out and buy some chems.
Also, does anyone use this on plants other than Figs?
Thanks all

A friend has used TOMATO DUST to rid a very sick black pine of pine mite. Tree is now very healthy.

I have not heard of using LIME SULPHUR on figs. It is usually used on deciduous [10-15% LS to rest water] to spray on naked bark and branches to kill any mites that might lurk in the bark.

It is used 100% strength on deadwood to help preserve it.

Beware. Lime sulphur will kill roots so it is important that any spraying is carried out after soil is covered and do not use on any areas where the cambium is open. If I am treating deadwood I normally wait 3 months after the work before using it to ensure any nicks are healed.

If I am spraying deciduous trees I do it at root prune. I bare root the tree, turn it upside down and spray heavily and then let the LS dry while the tree is suspended upside down with the roots covered in damp newspaper. This way I can get in every nook and cranny and on all the branches without worry about damaging the roots. You can even spray roots at the soil line. I put newspapers or plastic on the patio as LS dries white. Once the LS is dry there is no worry about watering but I ALWAYS wait 24-48 hours before getting water on the wood... just in case.

If using LS on deadwood, moisten the deadwood for 30 minutes beforehand so it is damp but not dripping. Dry deadwood maintains a strong yellow cast for weeks while applying LS to damp wood ensures the wood silvers within 24 hours.

Thanks alot MelaQuin that info could prove vital to the success of one of my poor PJ Figs, it has a strange wound on the lower trunk which the cambium was previously exposed but has now healed slightly, I wouldn't have known and just sprayed the tree liberally!
Thanks again for the clarification, he also recommends using Bi-Carb & Milk for similar results, might opt for that as it seems a much more env. benign spray?!

Hey there,

It’s great that you're taking a more thoughtful approach to pest control, especially since keeping trees healthy naturally (like with ladybugs) can often be the best long-term solution. You’re right that some pests, like spider mites, can sometimes be harder to spot but can still do significant damage over time, so using something like pest oil or Confidor could help manage those hidden issues.

As for your question, Confidor is indeed a systemic insecticide, but there are different kinds of systemic pesticides that work in slightly different ways. Confidor, which contains the active ingredient imidacloprid, works by being absorbed by the plant and affecting pests when they feed on it. It’s effective against a variety of insects like aphids, mealybugs, and scale, but pine bud mite is a bit trickier.

Rogor (which contains the active ingredient dimethoate) is also systemic, but it’s more effective against certain types of mites, like the pine bud mite. It’s a different chemical and works in a slightly different way. In general, Confidor may work to control certain insect pests but might not be as effective against mites like Rogor would be, especially on conifers. So, while they both work systemically, they target different pest types with varying degrees of effectiveness.

Since your current issue is pine bud mites, Rogor might be your best bet, but it could be worth experimenting with Confidor to see if it helps with other pest issues you might have in the future. Just make sure to follow the application instructions carefully for both, and keep an eye on how your trees respond.

Good luck with your mission to learn more about pest control — sounds like you're on the right track!

Cheers!