AusBonsai

I recently bought a pre bonsai trident maple out at bonsai environment. The more I look at it and think about the less I can find in it.
Thinking drastic!!
Have I missed the season to be doing a trunk chop???

Do not do it now, Wait a few weeks to late spring then chop
https://www.ausbonsai.com.au/wiki/index. ... hould_I%3F

Ken

I agree. Maples tend to 'bleed' when you are doing any major cuts. The more active they are, the more this will happen. In Spring they are still very active and a lot of sap flowing.

Ken: in the link you posted, I happen to have noticed that the list specifies that olives can be collected at any time of year. Also transplanted at any time of year. Both being in the more mild times of the year though. We collect olives only in the dead of winter and also transplant in June/July. Our weather is very similar to that of Sydney, so I was wondering what the success rates are for these general guidelines in your area?

I don't understand. RayM recommends air layering Maples at bud burst, and that's how i have done it lately. Works very well. At bud burst the sap flow is at its peak. Why don't the Maple "bleed out" if "bleeding" is such a big factor.
Interesting though Walter Pall recommends to do Maple layers later because of the bleeding factor.

mm yea that is a good point?

When i was in Japan at spring time they did a big trunk chop in early-mid spring, every cut done on maples were sealed straight after the cut to stop them from getting any diseases/fungal issues.

So not sure if they will bleed if every cut is sealed?

fredman wrote:I don't understand. RayM recommends air layering Maples at bud burst, and that's how i have done it lately. Works very well. At bud burst the sap flow is at its peak. Why don't the Maple "bleed out" if "bleeding" is such a big factor.
Interesting though Walter Pall recommends to do Maple layers later because of the bleeding factor.

I never recommended such thing. Bleeding btw is not serious. I don't wory about it.

gerald randall wrote:
Ken: in the link you posted, I happen to have noticed that the list specifies that olives can be collected at any time of year. Also transplanted at any time of year. Both being in the more mild times of the year though. We collect olives only in the dead of winter and also transplant in June/July. Our weather is very similar to that of Sydney, so I was wondering what the success rates are for these general guidelines in your area?

Gerald, I have collected in May, July, September and Octber with success.

Ben Thomas wrote:I recently bought a pre bonsai trident maple out at bonsai environment. The more I look at it and think about the less I can find in it.
Thinking drastic!!
Have I missed the season to be doing a trunk chop???

Hi Ben, I thought you may be interested in some repair works I have begun on a big chop off trident maple. These are bridge grafts over the very sizeable wound made on one of some rescue maples dug in the Picton area many years ago with Grant Bowie.

Walter Pall wrote:
I never recommended such thing. Bleeding btw is not serious. I don't wory about it.

WoW I am deeply embarrassed here Walter. Please accept my apologies.....
Thinking back to where i heard the comment I realise that I cant in fact remember who it was. I only remember the person saying its better to do a layer after the leaves has hardened some. Why my mind told me its you that said that I don't know (for a few years I swore by that because Walter Pall said so)
This is exactly how untrues and old wives tales is started.
Anyway thanks for eventually clearing that up for me. It always worried me because it just seemed wrong.

fredman wrote:I don't understand. RayM recommends air layering Maples at bud burst, and that's how i have done it lately. Works very well. At bud burst the sap flow is at its peak. Why don't the Maple "bleed out" if "bleeding" is such a big factor.
Interesting though Walter Pall recommends to do Maple layers later because of the bleeding factor.

Hi fredman,
I think it is important to mention that air layering and a chop are two very different things. I have always had very good success with Maples doing the layer at bud burst. If I was doing a chop, I would definitely seal the cut immediately. I use the paste in a tube to seal first. After the sealer has dried and is firm, this could take a few days, I then put the putty over the top.

Regards Ray