AusBonsai

Hi guys, for those that have taken cuttings before, it is no great secret that if you make a diagonal cut on one side of the cutting (which seems to be the preferred method) instead of cutting horizontally across, you increase the surface area of the cut and therefore it's potential to take root. I guess it's fair to say that even then, the law of percentages dictates that depending on a number of factors such as the species, surface area of cut/wound, temperature etc etc it may STILL not take root. Although I am only new to propagation, it sounds to me like it's all about hedging your bets!! So here's my question:.......Why would you not instead make a cut...or should I say 2 cuts like in the diagram below? Would'nt this give you a better strike rate?

If you are striking cuttings particularly for bonsai purposes. The square cut, which should be immediately below a bud where the high percentage of hormones reside, will give a flatter radial rootage which is desireable.

Thankyou very much for that Don

in my experience with cuttings all of them only grow their roots from the edge of the cutting (they come out from under the bark)

MasonC wrote:in my experience with cuttings all of them only grow their roots from the edge of the cutting (they come out from under the bark)

Yes, but what Jester is saying, is that with a diagonal cut, the "length" of the edge is longer... and therefore, possibly more potential for taking root.

It depends on the species you are taking cuttings from. Some do better with mallet type cuttings, some wedges below a node, some need wounding.

No simple answer here, it all depends on where the tissue that develop new roots is.

Paul

If the one cut method you talk about was on the same angle as that two cut method, the surface area would be the same. Think about it.

JayC

Sorry JayC, but I dont see how your last comment is possible??

He is correct, two cuts would equal one cut.

Japh wrote:

MasonC wrote:in my experience with cuttings all of them only grow their roots from the edge of the cutting (they come out from under the bark)

Yes, but what Jester is saying, is that with a diagonal cut, the "length" of the edge is longer... and therefore, possibly more potential for taking root.

Depends on the plant. To have two cuts do you think the roots would grow all the way around.
I made the mistake of a long diagnal cut on a willow, it leant badly to one side.The only way i fixed the problem, was to prop it up with a rock. Im hoping when the roots get more thicker it will hold its own.
If you use root powder or gel there shouldnt be a need to make two cuts. I think two cuts would make it harder to untangle the roots also they would be too close togethr making the tree unstable.

JayC wrote:If the one cut method you talk about was on the same angle as that two cut method, the surface area would be the same. Think about it.

Jarrod wrote:He is correct, two cuts would equal one cut.

That's only true in the case of a 45 degree angle cut.

Petra wrote:Depends on the plant. To have two cuts do you think the roots would grow all the way around.

I'm assuming too, that this was the theory.

Petra wrote:I made the mistake of a long diagnal cut on a willow, it leant badly to one side.The only way i fixed the problem, was to prop it up with a rock. Im hoping when the roots get more thicker it will hold its own.

That would be my worry! And as was previously mentioned, a flat cut is better for producing a good nebari anyway.

The surface area is the same in each of the following cuts:
[ ] [ ]
[ ] [ ]
[ ] [ ]
[ ] [ ]
V /
(Sorry for this diagram, i dont have time to make one on the computer.)

Provided that the angle on the side of the "V" shaped cut, and the angle of the sliced cut are identical. Both expose a larger area than a flat cut would. But either can be varied which both would affect surface area. But as has been said, neither of these are best for bonsai anyway.

JayC