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Propagating Times
Posted: March 22nd, 2015, 6:34 pm
by xIIRevoEvoS
Would like to know when to propagate and which part of the Juniper/JBP cuttings do i take?
Re: Propagating Times
Posted: March 22nd, 2015, 7:40 pm
by shibui
Any time of year for both.
Use new shoots of juniper. This picture shows rooted long cuttings ad will give an idea of what sort of shoots to use.
shimpaku cuttings 1.JPG
You can also strike smaller pieces but best results from half hardened wood like the ones in the picture - the bark is just starting to change from green to brown. Older wood will still root but takes longer.
and best results with juvenile shoots of JBP.
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=14454&hilit=black+pine+cuttings
Very difficult but possible with half hardened shoots so late summer and winter is the time. So far never struck a young candle cutting but if you can frighten your pine into making juvenile shoots they should root quite easily.
Re: Propagating Times
Posted: March 22nd, 2015, 7:57 pm
by Tim.C
I typed into Google, propagating juniper from cuttings, and there's a page from bonsaiforbeginners.com that I found very helpful. (I'd post the link, but am to technologically retarted). I pretty much did what this shows, and so far my cuttings havnt died. Been in pots for about 4-5 weeks now and still looking healthy. I usually cut the bottom off coke bottles and use them for at least two or three cuttings every batch I do, and wait until I can see roots through the clear plastic. Once I can see roots through these, it's usually a safe bet the rest in pots are the same. Know idea with JBP though sorry. Hope this helps.
Tim
Re: Propagating Times
Posted: March 22nd, 2015, 8:58 pm
by xIIRevoEvoS
shibui wrote:Any time of year for both.
Use new shoots of juniper. This picture shows rooted long cuttings ad will give an idea of what sort of shoots to use.
shimpaku cuttings 1.JPG
You can also strike smaller pieces but best results from half hardened wood like the ones in the picture - the bark is just starting to change from green to brown. Older wood will still root but takes longer.
and best results with juvenile shoots of JBP.
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=14454&hilit=black+pine+cuttings
Very difficult but possible with half hardened shoots so late summer and winter is the time. So far never struck a young candle cutting but if you can frighten your pine into making juvenile shoots they should root quite easily.
Can the juniper cutting be full green or it requires part green/brown on the stalk?
Would I also use softwood hormone?
Re: Propagating Times
Posted: March 22nd, 2015, 9:17 pm
by Elmar
Re: Propagating Times
Posted: March 22nd, 2015, 10:20 pm
by xIIRevoEvoS
I think it is. But I've read some sites that its also best to have a heat mat.
Is a heat mat nessacary.
Will keeping in a shady area with air circulating ok?

Re: Propagating Times
Posted: March 23rd, 2015, 6:24 am
by Tim.C
Hi Allen, yeah that's the one. I have some sitting on my kitchen bench, and some in my shade house. They both seem to be doing fine. (Not wilting or going brown). I can pick up some of the pots by only holding onto the plant, so appears to be working. (Only the ones in little pots though). Going to leave them longer cause everything I have researched say 6-8 weeks. This is my first attempt at junipers, so still learning myself. The only ones I know I've killed for sure we're in direct sunlight, and they died weeks ago. Hope this helps.
Tim
Re: Propagating Times
Posted: March 23rd, 2015, 11:40 am
by Scott Roxburgh
For back yard propagation, I have found that my best results are achieved by taking as many cuttings as possible and using the little 'greenhouses' from hardware stores.
Like this:
$_57.JPG
Shimpaku usually strikes in a pot of pumice under the bench, like shibui, JBP have only struck from juvenile growth.
Re: Propagating Times
Posted: March 23rd, 2015, 12:07 pm
by xIIRevoEvoS
Scott Roxburgh wrote:For back yard propagation, I have found that my best results are achieved by taking as many cuttings as possible and using the little 'greenhouses' from hardware stores.
Like this:
$_57.JPG
Shimpaku usually strikes in a pot of pumice under the bench, like shibui, JBP have only struck from juvenile growth.
I got propagating sand and i thin peat moss as well and Osomocote premade propagating mix
Re: Propagating Times
Posted: March 23rd, 2015, 12:32 pm
by kcpoole
xIIRevoEvoS wrote:Is a heat mat nessacary.
Will keeping in a shady area with air circulating ok?

In Australia no need for heat mat unless in the colder areas.
I have my propagating box in Dappled light under my benches. Stays warm durign the days and out of direct sun.
Ken
Re: Propagating Times
Posted: March 23rd, 2015, 12:43 pm
by xIIRevoEvoS
kcpoole wrote:xIIRevoEvoS wrote:Is a heat mat nessacary.
Will keeping in a shady area with air circulating ok?

In Australia no need for heat mat unless in the colder areas.
I have my propagating box in Dappled light under my benches. Stays warm durign the days and out of direct sun.
Ken
So veranda is ok even there is some light coming in?
Re: Propagating Times
Posted: March 23rd, 2015, 1:03 pm
by Tim.C
image.jpg
Hi Allan and Elmar, I was re-reading thread and missed some of your questions. I have used rootex-p hormone powder on just about all my cuttings with high success rates for twenty odd years. It's about $3.50 from most hardware stores. (Not the big green one though. It must be too cheap and work too well for them to stock it. (A lot of people prefer the gel, but that's around $10 a jar I think, and as the old saying goes, "if it ain't broken don't fix it". Rootex powder works great, so I've never tried any gels). And as for a heat mat underneath..... I've never used one, but I'm in Brisbane, and it doesn't get as cold up here.
Those propagaters Scott mentioned work well, but if using propagating sand, I found that you lose a lot of roots pulling the cutting out as the sand is heavy. If you use a 50/50 mix of vermiculite/perlite mix in them, you can pull the cutting out and none of the mix clings to the roots. I use coke bottles cut about a 1/4 up from bottom and use the top 3/4 of bottle as a lid for my slightly larger cuttings. (Well for my two or three yard stick cuttings for the batch, the rest just go in pots in my shade house with my orchids). And I don't bother with buying propagating sand or mix, I just use coarse sand/gravel from down the creek and it works well. One thing I have found with the propagating boxes and my bottles is if you get water drops forming on inside, it's too wet and too much humidity, take the lid off and let it dry a touch, you should have a fine mist forming inside on lid and that's all.
Tim
Re: Propagating Times
Posted: March 23rd, 2015, 3:11 pm
by xIIRevoEvoS
Tim.C wrote:image.jpg
Hi Allan and Elmar, I was re-reading thread and missed some of your questions. I have used rootex-p hormone powder on just about all my cuttings with high success rates for twenty odd years. It's about $3.50 from most hardware stores. (Not the big green one though. It must be too cheap and work too well for them to stock it. (A lot of people prefer the gel, but that's around $10 a jar I think, and as the old saying goes, "if it ain't broken don't fix it". Rootex powder works great, so I've never tried any gels). And as for a heat mat underneath..... I've never used one, but I'm in Brisbane, and it doesn't get as cold up here.
Those propagaters Scott mentioned work well, but if using propagating sand, I found that you lose a lot of roots pulling the cutting out as the sand is heavy. If you use a 50/50 mix of vermiculite/perlite mix in them, you can pull the cutting out and none of the mix clings to the roots. I use coke bottles cut about a 1/4 up from bottom and use the top 3/4 of bottle as a lid for my slightly larger cuttings. (Well for my two or three yard stick cuttings for the batch, the rest just go in pots in my shade house with my orchids). And I don't bother with buying propagating sand or mix, I just use coarse sand/gravel from down the creek and it works well. One thing I have found with the propagating boxes and my bottles is if you get water drops forming on inside, it's too wet and too much humidity, take the lid off and let it dry a touch, you should have a fine mist forming inside on lid and that's all.
Tim
Do you let any air circulation like 3 times a week then cover it back up?
Re: Propagating Times
Posted: March 23rd, 2015, 3:42 pm
by kcpoole
xIIRevoEvoS wrote:kcpoole wrote:xIIRevoEvoS wrote:Is a heat mat nessacary.
Will keeping in a shady area with air circulating ok?

In Australia no need for heat mat unless in the colder areas.
I have my propagating box in Dappled light under my benches. Stays warm durign the days and out of direct sun.
Ken
So veranda is ok even there is some light coming in?
Yep I would think so.
The cuttings need light, but direct sun is bad due to it getting far too hot
Ken
Re: Propagating Times
Posted: March 23rd, 2015, 5:41 pm
by xIIRevoEvoS
Thanks. going to start some when I debranch my Community Market purchased juniper squamata and a propagate some starter shimpaku and chinese juniper
