AusBonsai

I have often been asked if I have any trees that, well I won't repeat it on and open forum
Any way long story short I was given this Olive a month ago by a friend after I said that would make a nice Shohin.
So just for well what ever here it is for yous guys to have a go with what you would do. Now all you virtualolagists go for it, and all you other peoples too. Pup

I would think this will suit your styling well

Bretts wrote:I would think this will suit your styling well

Now where would you start?
Definately not number 6
I think number 5 is a goer

Hi Pup 2 and 5 look the goods for pinch and grow ,but personally i would start in 12 months time when some foliage has appeared .Cheers

I would have thought No# 1 I think the shari/jin complements well with a twist action in the tree. That is very close to No#6 though which although not as good as No# 1 I don't see what is so wrong with it ? Maybe you are concerned about the bubus top?
I think a round pot is the go as I like most sides.

This is a training pot, the reverse taper is a problem. You are right about foliage though it needs a lot.
which should happen in the next couple of months going into spring with plenty of food and warmer soil.
thanks for your input it looks like all the others have decided that you and I can have at it

The part I don't like about shot one, other than the obvious, is that the jin of the former apex may get hidden in the new apex.
Also the Jin and the apex appear to be at the same level, and the foliage in front of the jin. With an apex jin, it should be higher, and the foliage branch should be behind the jin (although there are examples of the foliage pad coming in front of the jin,the branches are behind the jin.) for depth.

I think 4# gives the foliage a chance to move away from the jin (it could be 5, the old man has messed up his numbering....).

*shot two or three (i think its three) also be good, it shows better taper, and the foliage goes away from that jin.

Hi all,
From a purely amateur perspective I like the looks of shots 1-3, mostly for the fact that that nice big V-shaped spread in the roots (creating that dark-hollowed look inbetween) is appealing to me. I don't have the experience/foresight yet to think of branching structure etc but I would aim to use that big spread somehow!
Looks like some great stock...I want one now!!
- Pat

I like 4 or 5

Asus would yo bother with a Jin on a shohin size Olive? I would not think it worthwhile

Ken

going on nebari i would say 5. these guys bud all over the place so foliage wont be a problem in design aspect.

great potential tho pup.i will see what i can do with a virt. dont expect it to be great tho. mine always look flatter than a piece of sheet metal mate!@

edit- well here it is flat as i said. but i think pads is the way to go. other wise a full head of foliage..

Thank you for that Jamie, I am waiting for the foliage to develop, but what you have done is about what I was thinking.
The inverse taper limits it a bit in potential design, also have to watch for rotting in wood below the surface.
I will keep my options open at this point about Jin and Shari . Keep yous posted on it. Thank you.

i Agree with shot 5. Made the best first impression for me. I will have to get a pic of my olive to show you sometime.

AG

I like shots 3 & 5 as they both show better root flair and the shari is more prominant. The virt looks good. I look forward to seeing the results down the track.

Pup wrote:Thank you for that Jamie, I am waiting for the foliage to develop, but what you have done is about what I was thinking.
The inverse taper limits it a bit in potential design, also have to watch for rotting in wood below the surface.
I will keep my options open at this point about Jin and Shari . Keep yous posted on it. Thank you.

i take it that the inverse taper is just under that scar where the leaves are starting to develop? if that is the case you might be able hide it by growing those leaves as the first main branch and that could help rectify the problem

edit- just seen it on one of the other shots. i think shot 5 will help disuguise this as the front to. and i know a tree should be seen from a 360 degree veiw but that is gonna open up a whole new can of worms and i dont want your thread hi jacked mate.

Hey Jamie if they want to hijack it let them you and Iand a couple of others know what we are talking about.
All trees have faults it is up to the artist to work with them to bring out the best in them.
Like we do with our children and grand children and great grandys. Pup