AusBonsai

Hi All
please could somebody advise me on how to progress from here, this is the tree that I was given that's 15 years old and needs a repot. The trunk appears to thin for the height of the tree ( the tree is 45cm tall ) and the branches I think are to thick and straight for the trunk . Is it possible to cut off all branches and start again as in a deciduous tree or not and should I cut the trunk shorter if so where is it suggested I do and can I do this the same time I repot. Once again all input is appreciated
regards
peterb

Hi Peter,

Someone will more experience please chime in and correct me if I'm wrong here.

Because its a evergreen you can't remove all of the foliage, their need to be a leaf in order for the sap flow to continue. I picked up my first pyracantha on Saturday at the BSV sales day, so my experience with them is VERY limited. As far as back budding is concerned I wouldn't be able to tell you, but suspect its minimal. When you repot I'd ditch the bonsai pot if I were you and feed to let it grow, try not to overly disturb the roots if you can.

Cheers,
Pearcy.

I'm with Pearcy, don't repot just slip pot (no root pruning) into a grow pot. Feed and water let it build up some more strength.

I've heard Firethorns are best repotted in Summer. This seems to be when they can take the proper root prune rituals and still not skip a beat.

Done in spring apparently is unreliable.

Speaking off hear-say (from a nursery owner with 25 years experience and a hell of a lot of Firethorns though) so don't quote me as I've never tried this in an Australia (or anywhere for that matter).

Plan to obtain some Firethorn though and give them varying degrees of root work in Summer next year to see how they go.

As far as back-budding, they should do this on old wood without issue - but as has been stated, cut back hard but leave enough foliage on to facilitate growth. Although, again, I'd probably wait for someone who has grown these for a while to chime in and really get some accurate info in.

What would I do? I'd chop it to a stump just before Summer and see what happens. No repot, no slip pot, no nuth'n. My cheaper tree's really don't like me.

Cheers,
Mo

Pyrantha should back bud easily, the mainproblem with this tree is the lack of secondary branches. This will occur if the tree is allowed to grow for several years without pruning. I would suggest a hard prune, heavy wire on the trunk (they do not bend easily) apply a few slight bends. Branches that leave the trunk at 90 degrees are not ideal. I would try to position branches slightly above horizontal and all at similar angles.
I find they sulk for a while after winter repot so the suggestion of a summer repot might be worth a try.

check out the wiki on Pyracantha.
https://www.ausbonsai.com.au/wiki/index. ... Pyracantha

Mentions that they will backbud. Whether they get branches where you might need is always a different story.
if you are unsure, cut the top back hard before any foliage and see if it does backshoot. if so then cut back harder and restart from where you want.

I would cut back hard to one of the branches and wire that up as a new leader and then repot it an angle.
A few trunk chops later you can regrow the branching.

Ken

My 2c,

I like what Gerard has said.

I'd consider chopping all branches back to the last bits of foliage when the tree is active.
I'd also significantly reduce the tree's height and adding taper by trunk chopping and selecting a new leader.
A new planting angle might help as well.

Reason why I say "when tree is active" is that I've found more reliable back-budding when a tree is growing and active as opposed to dormant then waiting for spring.

With a little luck the tree will provide numerous new options to consider.

Keep us posted on your progress!

Hi All
I tried to bend the branches a little by hand and there's no way they're going to bend so I think i'm going to follow all the advice here going to chop lower and wire new leader , might have to undercut the leader at the base and cut back hard to try get back budding closer to trunk and then work with new branches to wire slightly up. Thanks for link to wiki Ken.
kind regards
peterb

research the best time to remove the third and possibly fourth branches and try to strike them---this should give enough room to airlayer above the second branch ( this should give you a new leader and first branch and some trunk movement)-if the layer doesn't work you still have a more interesting smaller plant to build on.

I'm going to have to look into airlayering my Pyracantha too or I'm going to lose 3/4 of my tree haha. If you choose that route like Guy suggested, let us know how you go Peter.

How'd you end up getting along with this one Peter? Did you go the airlayer, or be lazy like me and just chop it off haha

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

Hi Pearcy
Got lazy I just chopped the top off and am regrowing a new leader
Peterb