AusBonsai

Hi all...Found this on the net...Looks like a winner when removing large branches, chops etc. It's supposed to make the wound heal over faster. Just wondering if any of you have used this technique before...And if so would like to hear the pros and cons.

Any way check it out, I found it a good read and it has a heap of diagrams showing step by step process of how to...

http://ofbonsai.org/techniques/styles-a ... -technique

Eureka! What a great idea! With little to lose I will be trying this method on non bonsai plants asap!

Very interesting work indeed.

Looks great - Will have to try this one for myself as I have a few chops to do in the coming weeks.

Yep...Looks like a great way to heal large wounds...Will have to try it some day...although will need quite a lot more experience before I go ahead.

Yep...Looks like a great way to heal large wounds...Will have to try it some day...although will need quite a lot more experience before I go ahead.

Hi bonsaiforest
this was a good find, the technique makes sense. I,m going to try this on my hawthorns and olives . Will post it up if I do
regards
peterb

Hey Peterb let me know how you go...Post some pics of your finished work so that we all have a tutorial to refer to on AB. I wonder what season would be best to go ahead with this technique...

Thank you. Very interesting, Im gonna try it tomorrow on a trident maple I need to make a LARGE cut on!
Cheers

I have tried this, because like you, I think it makes good sense!
I struggled with stopping the bark fracturing at the bend. I know it said to make it thin at the bend but I found that difficult - might just be my skill level or that I didn't get the proper tools.

Can't tell you if it was successful as the tree roasted last summer when we had a heat wave... unfortunately.
BTW: I used a chisel. Perhaps a Dremel would make the work easier/ safer ...


Cheers
Elmar

Hey elmar
Yep dremel would be the way to go for sure, and if you get the small round burr from typhoon you have a lot more control of it. They don't bite and jump like some of the normal burrs
Regards
Peterb

I gave this a go today on a large field dug Trident that needed a trunk chop along with some big branches removed...I too found it difficult to stop the bark and layers from breaking off..I used a dremel and was pretty careful to leave the layer thin enough. Perhaps it will work better on different species with a flexible skin...or maybe it was just me..!!

Robsterios wrote:I gave this a go today on a large field dug Trident that needed a trunk chop along with some big branches removed...I too found it difficult to stop the bark and layers from breaking off..I used a dremel and was pretty careful to leave the layer thin enough. Perhaps it will work better on different species with a flexible skin...or maybe it was just me..!!

I understood that if the outer layer of the bark remains mostly in-tact, this method will work ... I think that during the process the layers dry out; so I'm wondering if we should keep it moist with a squirt bottle ... ?!?!

That did cross my mind re; moistening the bark.....I'll give it another go tomorrow. I've got lots more chopping to do yet.

Had a think about your responses of having difficulty with the brittleness of outer bark not bending and then cracking when applying this technique. My initial thought was that seasons must play a part in this. Not sure... And only assuming...? For those who attempted this technique it sounds like it was performed in the cooler months. For me...Well... I'll be waiting and attempting in mid to late spring, maybe even summer when there is more sap flow. Hoping that the outer bark of my trident will be softer and much more pliable and will bend nicely into place.

Any Thought's .................?