AusBonsai

I bought this Cedar from Brisbane bonsai in Oxley last year. Lost the tag.
I am pretty sure its cedrus Atlantis.
I know its around 8 years or so.
Just potted up.
The tallest tree approx. 42cm
The smallest 30 cm
The pot is 48 cm longest point oval

Any comments. Or advice along with formal I.D. please.

Cheers
Rae

Hi raewynk. looks like a ''Cedrus Deodora'' . It has a weeping habit with a longer needle than the ''Atlas cedar'' Cedrus Atlantica'' and make for a larger bonsai rather than a smaller version .

Cheers Alpineart

Thank you Alpine heart.

Do you have any?

I have read just about every post on here and others trying to get as much info. As I could.
I put it in the garden bed for 18 months keep looking and looking at it.
I pruned it 2 months ago and now have new shoots.


I read its slow growing. Do not cut the roots until 1st re pot ?
Is this right?
Too much shock for 1 go

Cheers Rae

Hi Rae , they aren't a slow growing tree at all , but can get very leggy and need trimming during the elongation of the shoot . The new shoots can elongate 200-300mm in a season if left unchecked , compared to the Atlas cedar which is much less at around 100-150mm . Root pruning does slow them down considerably , I prune every few years , however re-pot every year and open the roots up by simple peeling out the root ball from underneath into a flat layer , no trimming simply tuck the roots back in around the perimeter of the pot and back fill .

I have several topics here , In the search box punch in Deodara or Deodora even Atlas and it should return quite a few of them .

Cheers Alpine.

Alpine.

I know photos aren't the best. But what would you recommend for the biggest tree.
On the tallest horizontal branch there are several vertical branches.
Question would you remove the vertical branch and leave the growth on the horizontal short and compact.
Do Deodars back bud?

Also I know the bark marks very quickly. How and what would you recommend to tie/wire down branches?

If I could pick your experience please.

Cheers
Rae

Hi Rae , these cedars look their best at around 600-1000mm high in my opinion the bigger the more natural. Girth is something that takes time but let them grow 200-3--mm shoots cut back and regrow . I have a couple of examples here left in 5 inch plastic pots as part of a comparison to the other trainers . They are growing very well , definitely pot bound however not to the extreme . I will do an update on a couple i have here as i have just worked some .

Wiring is something i don't do enough of so I simple use hook and hold wiring or a sling of shade cloth around the branches and wire down to the pots . This method I have used for years on numerous species , Pinch and grow , hook and hold and you can get a good tree in a few years , this will require detail wiring at some stage .

Most cedars don't back bud very well if they do its never in the desired position , hence don't remove any branches that will be incorporated into the final design . If in doubt "don't cut it out" simply remove all needles growing up and down leaving all the side needles and leave all the needles on the developing trunk . The growing branches will still get a little congested but they can be opened up/thinned out the following season or two . Use the growth/needles to thicken and develop .

Grow vertically while developing , in other words if you are growing a cascade make sure you grow it 50% of it time vertically and 50% horizontally , this give what i believe to be a stronger tree. Growing cedars horizontally seems to weaken the tree during development and needle drop and die back occurs leaving you with poor specimens , once developed 8-10 years they cope very well from semi to full cascade but i still turn mine upright for a couple of months twice a year . I have plenty here that were forced into cascades that failed good balanced growth , again this is only from my experience .

Best of luck with them .

Cheers Alpine

Cheers Alpine.

I have read most of your posts.
Difficult species to work with.
Might have to ponder some more
But I get what you say

Thank you for the advice.

Cheers
Rae

Hi rae , not a difficult species just requires a different approach . I find Japanese Maples more difficult up here and have tried numerous different approaches , haven't produced a good one yet , not for the lack of trying either .

Cheers Alpine .

My Japanese is only a seedling gives me night mares.
My Trident I have had to reduce to 50 shade and the rest sit under 30% shade except for the garden beds.

Its a learning curb.
I have found you can read the plants when you have them for awhile.

New stock to garden bed pot 12 - 18 months later when u talk their language.

The cedar had me stumped.


Cheers Rae

Big thank you

Thank you.

Hope the forum helped others also.

Cheers
Rae