AusBonsai

I have recently come across some great little stock trees of the above species at the right price. They are growing in 8 inch pots, the trees are about 1/2 inch in caliper, have nice basal flare and I believe they will make great little shohin. Although I'm a quite experienced with many species, and have been a self confessed mini-bonsai-aholic for ages, this is an entirely new species for me that has been on the wishlist for many years. I have a bunch of questions regarding their cultural needs and requirements under bonsai cultivation, suitability for mini bonsai, flowering etc and I am sure that one or more of the ausbonsai faithful may be able to assist (in particular the fellow from WA who is a bit partial to all things Myrtaceae)

So here goes:
1) Suitability of the species for shohin, obviously leaf size isn't a big issue, but repotting into small pots may be?
2) Repotting season, frequency and sensitivity to root disturbance, how much of the root system can be removed at repot? Assuming the trees are not terribly root bound in their current containers, is dropping from an 8 inch squat pot to a seed tray in one go a possibility? I have polytunnels, a greenhouse, fogging and misting systems for aftercare if need be.
3) Soil preferences, I'm assuming that drainage is important due to the species being of coastal origin, but are there other considerations as far as soil structure and components are concrened?
4) Are they thirsty, do they respond differently from a development point of view to different levels of hydration, are there relevent seasonal variations in water regime, is additional humidity or foliar misting an advantage?
5) I am assuming that the trees have been raised from seed, at approximately what age will they begin to flower?
6) Can the species be wired, if so are there seasonal considerations?
7) Feeding requirements, season, duration, dosage etc? I generally use organics, but am not adverse to throwing around a bit of Phostrogen from time to time if there is an advantage to be had.
8) Pests and diseases?

I know it is an extensive list of questions, any help will be greatly appreciated.

Cheers and thanks in advance

Jason (Mojo Moyogi)

Oh yeah, response to pruning might be worthwhile as well

MM

I have had no luck at all trying to grow Tea Tree as Bonsai. I think the problem lies in in reduction of the roots as in the wild the roots search long and far looking for water. The only advice I can offer is not to rush getting the roots down to size. Pot into a larger pot than needed and don't cut away too much trying to aviod disturbing the roots where posible.

Sorry I can't be of more help.
Trent.

G, day Mojo Moyogi.

This particular species is one of the easiest to Bonsai. It is commonly called the coastal Tea Tree. When it comes to tea tree's all thoughts turn to the Scoparium rubrum species, and this is the one that breaks peoples hearts.

The laevigatum lends it self to patient bonsai practice do not hurry it. One of the nicest groups I have seen was of this species.
Unfortunately the photograph does not do it justice. Which I will post .
Cultivation of the tree, it propagates readily from cuttings and seed. It needs a free draining soil as all Bonsai but will adapt to a heavier soil if need be. Pruning is as needed. Wiring is not a problem, use a low Phosphate fertilizer such as an Azalea fertiliser or Phostrogen. All in all it is one of the tea trees that are as I said the easiest to Bonsai.there is also a variegated foliage'd one called Raelene though this one is hard to find. Well here in the west it is. A good friend of mine has one as a single tree, I covet but it was his father's so it unfortunately suffer's the indignity of not showing off to its best ability
But next time I visit I will take a pic. I hope this helps Pup

as always pup, a great post in an infomative thread

Smashing stuff Pup, answered all of my questions and a few more besides. I used L.scoparium and it's cultivars a fair bit back when I was a Landscape Designer and they could even be a little finicky when used outdoors.
Watch out for some LeptoLaev progressions, starting soon (I promise). It looks like I will be buying enough of them so I can Frankenstein a few, so who knows what will come out of lab later on!

Thanks very much to all that replied

MM

I have recently acquired one myself and I'm wondering if they readily bud back off of old wood?

Definately one of the best aussie bonsai material. This one I repotted on nearly the hottest day of the year and as long as it was in shade for a few weeks after, no problem.

Repot once it has warmed up; tip prune frequently and does bud back a bit on branches.

You will get lovely "muscling" as the tree matures.

Grant

Thanks Grant. I dug mine from the wild (Classified as a weed over this side of Port Phillip Bay) on May 8th and it has showed no sign of ill health since then. I'll give it a year or so of free growth then see how well it's doing in its pot. Then start to make decisions on its styling.

Leptospermum laevigatum should be an Australian classic, these trees make superb bonsai and are suited to so many styles including cascade. They root prune very easily as long as its is done with other native trees during the warmer months. Younger trees will shoot easily from bare wood but as they get older the ability to bud back decreases dramatically. I would tend to think its better to start them from nursery stock rather than collected plants as wild ones don't seem to transplant easily. These trees take a long time to develop thick trunks but do get great flakey bark very young and develop that lovely twisted trunk movement also. Not all bonsai need to have thick powerful trunks. I hope in the future to see this species used a lot in this country and would encourage all growers to try some.
Craig

craigw60 wrote:Leptospermum laevigatum should be an Australian classic, these trees make superb bonsai and are suited to so many styles including cascade. They root prune very easily as long as its is done with other native trees during the warmer months. Younger trees will shoot easily from bare wood but as they get older the ability to bud back decreases dramatically. I would tend to think its better to start them from nursery stock rather than collected plants as wild ones don't seem to transplant easily. These trees take a long time to develop thick trunks but do get great flakey bark very young and develop that lovely twisted trunk movement also. Not all bonsai need to have thick powerful trunks. I hope in the future to see this species used a lot in this country and would encourage all growers to try some.
Craig

I agree about the growing from seed or small plants. They thicken up so quickly and are very rewarding.

Grant