AusBonsai

I've had a Chinese Elm in the ground now for the last 3yrs or so...I'm happy with the stage that It's at, and I'm really keen on removing from the ground and placing in a training pot in which it will stay(for the next few years). I've heard that Chinese Elms are really hardy so was wondering if it would handle being dug up at this time of year. I'd also like to take advantage of the numerous roots that will be removed in the process. Again not sure if root cuttings will work at this time of year. So all advice is welcomed...additional tips in regards to root cutting would be great.

I wouldn't---

Next winter, when it is dormant. .......

I find September is the best time to dig these.

Hang off till the end of winter, take as many root cuttings as possible. Wire them into weird and wonderful shapes and then leave them for a further 3 years. I started this year with root cuttings and actually prefer them over the parent plant.

Andrew F wrote:Hang off till the end of winter, take as many root cuttings as possible. Wire them into weird and wonderful shapes and then leave them for a further 3 years. I started this year with root cuttings and actually prefer them over the parent plant.

Hey Andrew & All...I'll be leaving in until late winter. Question about the root cuttings. When you wire them into weird and wonderful shapes, how deep to you plant the cuttings...? Is it best to treat them like normal cuttings, leaving a few inches above the surface or should they be totally buried. I figured that if their easy to bend then they must be pretty pliable, so how long do you leave the wire on for them to set and hold their shape ...?Just concerned about wire cutting in. Also do root cuttings thicken at the same rate(size) as growth of trunk...? Would really like to have a thicker base with nice taper, rather than a thick trunk and thinner root system.(if you know what I mean)....

with regards to root cuttings, I plant them 50 % immersed in potting mix. You need to make sure your cuttings don't have reverse taper as most roots do.

I left an inch or so exposed [Im going for neagari/semi cas style] I can post some pics when I repot them in winter. ATM Ive got 4 in a orchid pot in pure diatomite, when I repot they will go into individual pots.

I didnt wire mine hard up against the roots just enough to put some gnarly bends into them.

Thing to remember with root cuttings is that you never get branches below the cut point. This means that whatever you have as the cutting will form your trunk, but branches can only form above the point of growth. So, unless you want loooooong slender trunks, keep em short enough to cater for your lowest branches coming from the cut point.

I strike long root cuttings with just the lower 2-3 cm in the mix. Leave as much root above the mix as you like as long as they don't fall over.

Root cuttings will thicken just the same as any trunk. As soon as the top shoots and the bottom gets roots what was formerly a root is now a trunk so all that applies to other trunk now applies.

Keep wires on as long as they need it. Will depend how well you can grow them. As with all wire, keep an eye on it and remove as son as you think it might be marking the bark. If the root/trunk falls over or straightens out rewire it but wind the wire opposite direction and leave a bit longer. Most roots should stay bent after 2-3 months.

Reiterate what Brian said: Most roots are thinner toward the bottom = reverse taper. Try to choose only roots that are even thickness or, find some that are a little thinner at the top but that's rare.
Root cuttings must be put in the correct way up - end that was closest to the trunk is the top. If you put them in upside down some will still grow but shoots still come from the top end which is under the ground

Thanks Shibui. Will follow as you've explained....very informative...Cheers

shibui wrote:I strike long root cuttings with just the lower 2-3 cm in the mix. Leave as much root above the mix as you like as long as they don't fall over.

Root cuttings will thicken just the same as any trunk. As soon as the top shoots and the bottom gets roots what was formerly a root is now a trunk so all that applies to other trunk now applies.

Keep wires on as long as they need it. Will depend how well you can grow them. As with all wire, keep an eye on it and remove as son as you think it might be marking the bark. If the root/trunk falls over or straightens out rewire it but wind the wire opposite direction and leave a bit longer. Most roots should stay bent after 2-3 months.

Reiterate what Brian said: Most roots are thinner toward the bottom = reverse taper. Try to choose only roots that are even thickness or, find some that are a little thinner at the top but that's rare.
Root cuttings must be put in the correct way up - end that was closest to the trunk is the top. If you put them in upside down some will still grow but shoots still come from the top end which is under the ground

Have you ever got budding on what was formerly root?

Occasionally a Chinese elm will produce shoots from the lower part of roots. It is not common so don't rely on it if you need branching but it does happen. I currently have an exposed root Chinese elm that has decided to shoot from low down on one root, just above soil level so I have to keep rubbing the buds off.

It would be interesting to see whether wounding the root/ trunk would stimulate buds where you needed some?