AusBonsai

This Crepe Myrtle I cut back every winter.

I had a thought this year to wait till early spring and attempt to do a trunk fusion.

I will have PLENTY of cutting to work with, just wondering if it's a stupid idea of not. I'll worry about technique etc more when the time comes.



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Never a silly idea to take cuttings, Iit is an excellent was to get new material.

As wa told to me, with Crepe myrtle, Throw the up in the the air, they will come down with roots on them.
They are very fast to shoot roots

Ken

Sounds promising

So maybe strap a whole bunch together and stick in a pot then hahaha.

Is my timing right for early spring?

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zimzallabim wrote:Sounds promising

So maybe strap a whole bunch together and stick in a pot then hahaha.

Is my timing right for early spring?

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Keep them covered to stop them dryig out maybe do them now depending on where you live
Hardwood cutting in winter

Ken

Hardwood cuttings will be fine with a bit of winter protection. Crepe myrtle are quick strikers. I like your idea of putting them together to make a thick trunk. Worth a go for sure.

I live in Newcastle happy to prune it now as it's almost lost all its leaves

Somewhat you reckon Ken, go for it? We are still getting warm days Here


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Any tips I'm how to do this?

I'm thinking of making all te cuttings ~30cm beyond that I need some guidance

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zimzallabim wrote:I live in Newcastle happy to prune it now as it's almost lost all its leaves

Somewhat you reckon Ken, go for it? We are still getting warm days Here


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they will get colder eventually.
If you have a sheltered spot agains a northern facing wall or fence then yep

Ken

You'll be taking hardwood cuttings from Crepe myrtle at this time of year. Dormant hardwood cuttings are supposed to just sit and do almost nothing all winter then sprout in spring. Actually the bottom of the cutting is growing callus in preparation to grow roots as soon as it warms up in spring. It does not really matter whether it is still warm or getting cold.

Now is a good time to take hardwood cuttings so go ahead.
I still dip the base of hardwood cuttings in rooting hormone. It does seem to help even in easy to strike species.
Use a propagating mix. Sometimes cuttings will strike in potting mix or even garden soil but there is a risk that something nasty could be lurking and get in through the open cut at the bottom. Hardwood cuttings are the toughest so if you can't get some propagating mix then try whatever potting mix you use.
Don't let them dry out. There is always a risk that, without roots, the cuttings can dehydrate and die if they are too warm and dry. I sometimes tie hardwood cuttings into bundles and bury them completely over winter so they can't dry out. Just need to remember to dig them up and plant properly before they start to sprout in spring.

That's that's some great info

Should I bother tying them into the trunk I want or do that after they root? I figured just get all the cuttings together, apply rooting hormone and stick it in a foam box and leave it for a couple of years?

And yep I do have a couple of warm walls

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Probably all wrong but only cost me 10 bucks to do lol







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Nice job, it will be cool if it works. Just make sure you don't forget about taper will be a 50 year project trying to get some movement into that big one.

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I'm pretty new to this lol

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Pearcy001 wrote:Nice job, it will be cool if it works. Just make sure you don't forget about taper will be a 50 year project trying to get some movement into that big one.

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What could I change to improve the big one?

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It will be a fun experiment and for only 10 clams, hey why not!

The problem I picture with the big one is that it will just be one giant stump, with no interesting movement or taper which is normally what is strived for in a bonsai trunk.

Personally I would have grown each cutting individually to make sure they all strike before binding them, in order to assure you don't get any that fail - although Shibui is MUCH more knowledge than I and her bundles his. Then once they have roots of their own I would combine maybe 5 (depending on their thickness) in order to keep it at a size were a new leader can then be grown on and cut back to. I'd also have thinner cuttings in the gaps in order to keep it more cemetrical. Having a trunk with the sort of circumference that yours has will take many MANY years to get the desired proportionate taper people normally strive for.

Having said that this is just my opinion and nothing more. And don't read into this like you have to change anything. I am also new to this, so wait for the guidance from the more experienced before you go considering altering anything. Like I said, just my personal opinion

Good luck with the project and have fun!

Cheers,
Pearcy.

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