AusBonsai

Hi Guys, since I have been a member of the this forum, I have had to rethink the way I do a lot of things based on the great posts I have read. The following problem should not be a difficult one by any means but I will ask for everyone's valuable advice all the same. The tree you see below was purchased less than a year ago from a nursery where the tree had been neglected. I'm guessing it had not been watered for quite a while as it only had "one" leaf on it in the middle of summer.It was over in a corner all by itself. In any case I bought it and proceeded to treat the little fella a little better. Now, 2 years ago, if I had this tree, during the growing season, I would have over zealously trimmed the shoots to keep it compact although as you can see, it is not only growing ferociously but compact anyway. So what's my question? My objective at this stage is in 2 parts:

1. I want to fatten that beergut of a little trunk as much as I can in the shortest possible time but without putting it into open ground.('cause I don't have any) I'm not sure a bigger pot would make a big difference at this stage??
So , do I allow the foliage to grow until it gets to the size of a beach ball? 'cause frankly at this rate that's where it's heading. ( I am not concerned about the branch structure at all at this stage)

2. The bendy bit at the bottom is awful. Do I air layer at the point at which the corky bark stops and the curviture into the soil begins?

Thankyou guys

Air layer if you do it now and do it properly you will only have to wait 6-8 weeks .

They are among the easiest to do, the ring bark method make sure there is no cambium left so there is no chance of it forming a bridge.

Good luck. Pup

I would have thought the tourniquet ground layer method but would think it would take longer than 6-8 weeks?

Thanks Pup

I dont know how the corky bark elms grow but if it is as rampant as a normal chinese elm i would cut a series nicks around where you would like the new base {just below the rough bark} and brush on some hormone powder then back fill the pot to the top.If needed extend the pot by cutting another top off an old pot and slipping it over the tree The top will continue to power on and the canopy will fuel the new roots .

This could be done over 2 seasons to improve the Narebri whilst training the canopy .No interuption to the original roots or slowing of the growth by ring barking to set the layer .I have used this method on normal chinese elms and severed the original roots off after 1 season ,I'm talking 50-10mm trunks and using the old root as a new root cutting .It usually takes 2-3 seasons to fatten the roots up for appearance /Narebri but they feed the tree without any issues. Remember dont let the top of the pot dry out , use some chopped spagnum or peat moss mixed into you mixture be it bonsai mix or propagating mix to retain a bit more moisture at the top .Hope this helps .Cheers

The tree's that have been posted here were the result of ring bark air layers. The corky bark one was done in the middle of September about 10 years ago and taken off at the end of October the same year.
The other one on the left was taken 12 years ago from the one on the right. The same method the same time frame. I am sorry for the pics Flash on the corky you can see a very good nebari. unfortunately the other one is covered in moss but it was dark out there 10 minuets ago.

Thankyou guys for the excellent advice. Thankyou for your time...........

Great examples Pup. Although I have done a few ground layers with cd's I have not had results from the tournique method yet. It seems much simpler that an air layer. Would you say the air layer has any advantages over the tournique method?

Bretts wrote:Great examples Pup. Although I have done a few ground layers with cd's I have not had results from the tournique method yet. It seems much simpler that an air layer. Would you say the air layer has any advantages over the tournique method?

good question brett, im interested in the answer to this too!

jamie111 wrote:

Bretts wrote:Great examples Pup. Although I have done a few ground layers with cd's I have not had results from the tournique method yet. It seems much simpler that an air layer. Would you say the air layer has any advantages over the tournique method?

good question brett, im interested in the answer to this too!

Yes the ring bark has advantages over the tourniquet method also the ground layer. I have found both these methods to be a lot longer in issuing roots.
Some trees like beech the tourniquet is better for that tree, and other trees of a similar cultivation needs. Not knowing the needs of the Hornbeam Brett this might be the case with them.
All maples and a lot of junipers respond well to the ring bark method. Also fruiting trees
I find the Ulmus to be a tree that is best ring barked. As I have proven 6-8 weeks you can cut them from the parent plant.
With sufficiant root systems. I hope this is of some help Pup

Ps If you can lay your hands on a copy of Peter Chan's book Bonsai Master Class he list's the methods best suited to what tree's very helpful.

Very informative Pup Thanks. I believe I have the book so on that note I might go do some reading in bed.

There is another way which is very successful. I got the info from Koreshoffs book and immediately tried it. Drill holes into the tree at the point you want roots at. Use a toothpick sized drill and drill right the way around.going in beyond the cambium. Take your toothpicks and wetting one end stick it into some powdered growth hormone or liquid, if you prefer and insert it into the hole. once all the toothpicks are in bury the toothpicks with your growing medium and wait. I have had success with Maples, lilacs and am going to try it on an evergreen.

I have done the rongbark method on my corky bark about a fortnight ago. The top is still green and growing and the branches on the base are starting to bud back strongly after a big prune. I have done this on elms before with great success.

I had always thought that technique was mainly used for adding an odd root here and there Bodi I had never thought it would work well enough to layer a tree. I would like to see it if you have any pictures.

Sorry it took so long Bretts. All the layers i attempted this year are covered. I have a desire to check my Mikawa Yatsabusa which i did last year. I will expose some and take some piccys. I am, unfortunately, very slack on taking photos but will be more mindful in the future. Get back to you soon.