AusBonsai

Hello, I apologise if this has been posted before I looked around but couldn't find an exact question! So here goes.

I have a 6 Corky bark elm which is a lovely little tree, I am also very new to this bonsai business but have long admired the art.

Basically my tree was sitting in the sun for a few days and was being watered daily, I realised I wasn't providing enough water when it started turning yellow, so I moved it out of direct sunlight and have a good misting twice a day and a slow water to its ground cover and roots, since doing so it's actually gotten worse, more leaves turning brown and falling off everywhere, however yesterday I noticed it started developing new shoots which are very bright green and look healthy? The mossy cover is a nice green and has those sprouts when it's spreading which are looking healthy also... I'm unsure if it's dry or too wet? Its a delicate balance and I'm lost... So I'm looking for some expert guidance so I can make it healthy and happy again!

It won't let me upload photos as they're too large, I'll try and downsize them and upload as a comment.

Depends on the mix - most bonsai die from under watering rather than overwatering. Misting doesn't do anything much while you have no leaves, and if the mix is open enough you can water more often without harm. If the root ball totally dries out the tree will die. Photos will be helpful

Here's some photos, I have more if needed, the bark is looking healthy and the soil is moist but not overly wet.

Hello Aj,

It looks healthy from the photos provided, new growth is a good indicator of good health.
The brown leaves appear to be older foliage naturally being discarded by the plant. Possibly due to the tree not dropping it's leaves naturally in Autumn because of the warmer Qld weather???
I'm sure some local advice will come, maybe insert a more specific region as your location.

Welcome and happy Bonsai and Merry Christmas.

Kevin

Hi AJ,
The fact that the leaves have come back is very encouraging. Bougy has already mentioned the soil mix. Are the trees still in the original soil mix that the trees came in when you got them? If so there are a couple of things to check. The soil may not be opened enough for good drainage. The tree/trees could be root bound. If per chance they are root bound water may not be getting to all the roots. Placing a tree/trees in a tub of water for a half hour or so usually will help the water to get right into the root ball. I would add some Seasol to the tub of water.

What size pots are the tree/trees in? Photos would help.

Regards Ray

Hi Ray,

Yeah it is still in the soil it came with, I'll take some photos of the pot when I get home from work tonight.

Someone else had suggested a dip, I was concerned about ruining the mossy ground cover if I did that though? Is that a concern I was warranted in having?

Thanks Kevin, I'm excited to join the family! I thought the new growth was a good indicator and am hoping the brown leaves are just a matter of being old growth.

Ajbonsai wrote:Hi Ray,

Yeah it is still in the soil it came with, I'll take some photos of the pot when I get home from work tonight.

Someone else had suggested a dip, I was concerned about ruining the mossy ground cover if I did that though? Is that a concern I was warranted in having?

Thanks Kevin, I'm excited to join the family! I thought the new growth was a good indicator and am hoping the brown leaves are just a matter of being old growth.

The moss could potentially be another reason why the root ball isnt getting enough water. Not sure the extents of it in your pot, but it will generally be acting as a barrier of sorts, as the water will sit on top or be held within the layer of moss, leading to very little draining to the actual potting mix. I suppose the way to get around this is to water slower, for longer, to ensure adequate watering.

Personally, considering the state the tree is in, i would rather try keep the tree alive, than the moss. You can always scrape the moss off the top layer of soil and have it sit in another pot (or somewhere else) while the tree recovers.

Edit: Sorry i missed the bit where you mentioned watering slower, but i would still consider moving the moss away and checking your mix.

Ajbonsai wrote:Hi Ray,

Yeah it is still in the soil it came with, I'll take some photos of the pot when I get home from work tonight.

Someone else had suggested a dip, I was concerned about ruining the mossy ground cover if I did that though? Is that a concern I was warranted in having?

Thanks Kevin, I'm excited to join the family! I thought the new growth was a good indicator and am hoping the brown leaves are just a matter of being old growth.

Hi AJ,
I concur with what Naimul says about the moss. The tree is far more important than the moss. Remove it for now and get the tree back into good health.

Regards Ray

Okay so I'm home and on a PC now so much easier to type and upload photo's, many thanks for all your expert tips and advice so far! I'm thinking the moss is really inconsequential at the moment as there really isn't much on the ground cover at all, the nursery where I purchased the tree did explain that too much moss is bad and to remove it if it becomes excessive so I've been mindful of that... Perhaps there's too much, you're the experts so check out the pics and let me know...

As far as the dipping goes, what's the process? Just fill a sink and dip the tree in to a certain level? The trunk? Or just enough to cover the ground?

I've also attached a few photos of the trunk just so you can base your excellent advice from that if needed.

There is not enough moss to be causing any problems so you can leave that alone for now.
The mix looks like it has reasonable larger particles so it probably drains well (maybe that's why it dried out) My mix looks similar and I have to water each morning and evening to keep my bonsai hydrated. If it has been a dry day I usually 'double water' meaning I water all the pots then go back and water again soon after. If the mix is dry the first watering only penetrates a little way, all the rest of the water runs off and the pot is still mostly dry. If you allow the first water to soak in for a few minutes and water again, the second water will penetrate much further and is more effective.

It is hard to tell how many roots there are in the pot. If a tree has not been repotted for a few years the roots will have packed the pot so full that water cannot penetrate properly. I still get this problem with some of the species that have fast growing roots like wisteria and banksias. Trees always seem to grow much better in the year after they are root pruned.

I am pretty sure that your tree has dried out at some stage but you have caught it before much harm was done so well done there.
Now you just need to water better.
Soaking the pot is good. You can submerge it halfway up the pot or put the pot right under water. It does not matter.

Maybe it is just lack of water but I think your elm looks a bit hungry as well. Have you been feeding it?

I agree with what shibui has said - looks like a good mix with large particles. And it does look a bit hungry - it could also do with some seasol as well as fertilising. When you water you need to keep the water going until it runs out the drain holes - and in a shallow pot like that definitely twice a day on hot days. Dry hot winds are also a problem for bonsai - the pot can dry out very quickly and the leaves can go crispy very quickly.

You're all legends! I'm feeling much better.

The water doesn't drain out the bottom so I'll be sure to keep watering until it does now, I'll also dip it.

Now what do i feed it? The gent at the store never told me I had to feed it? Is seasol sufficient I have a bottle here which I can use now. Should I also trim off these dry leaves? Or just let them fall off naturally?

Seasol is a tonic not a fertiliser, you could use it use it once a week if you like. If you have some Dynamic Lifter or something similar just put a pinch or 2 on it. I like using an organic fertiliser to put something back into the mix. You don't want to promote too much growth so not too much.

Chinese elm requires...

Full sun (unless ridiculously hot)
Lots of water (the mix should dry out in 1 day, if it doesn't, the pot is too big or the mix is too fine)
Lots of fertilizer. About twice as much as most trees. ( I have 16 fertilizer cakes on mine at the moment and it gets liquid feed once or twice per week as well. The leaves should be dark green and bursting with vigour. You can almost see them grow)
In the early stages of development, you should be cutting new growth back 5 or 6 times per year. (Theoretically, that means if left un-pruned, you should get well over half a metre of growth during the summer on a potted tree)
If the above does not happen, your tree is not up to it's potential and will take 20 years to develop instead of 5 or 6.
Just say'n.....

short and sweet................................'Hot weather shedding'.......Older mature leaves past use by.
My Elms have done similar with new buds pushing the old people out.

Steve.