AusBonsai

Hello everyone, when is the best time to repot the JBP i live in sydney.



Thank you and god bless us all.


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Ilithya wrote:Hello everyone, when is the best time to repot the JBP i live in sydney.

Thank you and god bless us all.


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Hi Ilithya,

I would wait till autumn or spring, but thats here in Perth!! I would imagine it's the same in Sydney??

Cheers

Rolf

Rolf wrote:

Ilithya wrote:Hello everyone, when is the best time to repot the JBP i live in sydney.

Thank you and god bless us all.


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Hi Ilithya,

I would wait till autumn or spring, but thats here in Perth!! I would imagine it's the same in Sydney??

Cheers

Rolf

Thank you Sir Rolf,


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Any advice Please?

why dont u plant it in the ground and make it vigorous and get some trunk thickness?

That's a lovely curve down the bottom but the rest is very straight. I think the straighter trunk above the bend can look elegant but your picture looks too tall and thin for my taste. there are still needles on the trunk up near the strong branch on the right. I would cut the trunk and that strong branch about 3cm above that fork and wait for new buds to grow and make the canopy from those if you want to stay with informal upright style.
I think the lower part of your design is fine though

cut back to the first branch on the right on the inside of the bend and regrow the top from there.
Gives taper and good movement in symapthy with the first bend.

or cut at the upward pointing thicker shoot (wire and use that as the apex) at the whorl above and then remove all others but one and regrow the apex.
or in your sketch, cut the top bit off above your upper right branch and make literati.
3 choices for you to pick from.

Nice trunk base and IMHO i woud go the first option similar to shibui's thoughts.


Ken

Charliegreen wrote:why dont u plant it in the ground and make it vigorous and get some trunk thickness?

Sir, i live in unit right now. What i did i put it on the big pot and live it their for couple of years.

Thanks
Ilithya


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shibui wrote:That's a lovely curve down the bottom but the rest is very straight. I think the straighter trunk above the bend can look elegant but your picture looks too tall and thin for my taste. there are still needles on the trunk up near the strong branch on the right. I would cut the trunk and that strong branch about 3cm above that fork and wait for new buds to grow and make the canopy from those if you want to stay with informal upright style.
I think the lower part of your design is fine though

Hello Shibui,

This is what i did today. Im new in bonsai and just start joining the club to learn more and get some advice. I will transfer to big pot tomorrow.

Thanks
Ilithya



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kcpoole wrote:cut back to the first branch on the right on the inside of the bend and regrow the top from there.
Gives taper and good movement in symapthy with the first bend.

or cut at the upward pointing thicker shoot (wire and use that as the apex) at the whorl above and then remove all others but one and regrow the apex.
or in your sketch, cut the top bit off above your upper right branch and make literati.
3 choices for you to pick from.

Nice trunk base and IMHO i woud go the first option similar to shibui's thoughts.


Ken

Ken,

Thank you for your advice.

Thanks
Ilithya


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nice plant but very costly...

Aabhapure wrote:nice plant but very costly...

Yeah thats right. I was thinking if im going to buy the starter i would not enjoy it. And some old member they advice me to get the big one so i can start training it and enjoy the bonsai.

Thanks
Ilithya


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Charliegreen wrote:why dont u plant it in the ground and make it vigorous and get some trunk thickness?

Thanks for your respone and Sorry for the late reply been busy this couple of weeks. ill put it on the big tub already. ill see what happen in couple of years time.

Thanks
Ilithya



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You have too much growth still left at the top. If you leave it this way you risk losing the lower banches.
Pines are very strong growers at the top (apical) and will discard lower branches. Remove any bar branching at the top.
Cheers
Kirky

Nice neat wiring and bending is OK but I feel it is a bit monotonous - same bend repeating. natural bends are more random I think.
Taper is probably even more important than movement in bonsai trunks. This one has a little bit of taper in the first part then none for the rest of the tree. taper is best developed by cutting back and regrowing. I know that means it will take longer but a good tree is far more satisfying than an ordinary bonsai.

I also agree with Kirky about apical dominance in pines. That first branch is already very weak and so is the tiny shoot at the back. I would take out most of the top, just leave the first 2 branches in that top section if you want to keep that height. taking out most of the top will divert some energy to those lower branches and could save them.

Another problem with pines is that they don't bud easily on bare wood. The branch you have kept on the right is 2 years old (new section brownish bark, older section below) Next summer those older needles will drop off leaving a long thin bare branch with a tuft of needles at the end. Is that the sort of branch you want? I would cut that branch back leaving just 6-8 pairs of older needles. Buds should form from between those needles which will give you some branching closer to the trunk that you can use to build a decent branch structure.

You will be noticing by now that black pines (and pines in general) have very different growth patterns from most other trees. They need very different maintenance and growing techniques.