AusBonsai

Thought I'd start a progression thread on one of my first proper trees that I've pruned hard from the nursery.




Advice is more than welcome! Cheers!


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I'm not too experienced, but I would consider chopping down further. Perhaps just above that first small branch on the right and letting that grow as the new leader.
Otherwise you will have a tree with little to no taper.

Hi Banong,
As a precaution, remove the dead wood and seal it to prevent any further rotting.
Regards Ray

benbonsai wrote:I'm not too experienced, but I would consider chopping down further. Perhaps just above that first small branch on the right and letting that grow as the new leader.
Otherwise you will have a tree with little to no taper.

Thanks Ben, i was considering that but wasn't sure if i should chop now while tree is dormant or wait till spring. thanks for your advice.
Also this photo was taken a few weeks ago, i can post recent photos soon, some leaves have fallen off but should i defoliate the tree completely since we've just entered winter?

Ray M wrote:Hi Banong,
As a precaution, remove the dead wood and seal it to prevent any further rotting.

Maple -2.jpg

Regards Ray

Thanks Ray, i have re-potted recently and roots may not be as stable if i was to use a saw.
Would that be an issue? If not, will get onto that on my next day off.
or just proceed with care and caution.

Good start mate!

I like what you have done. Especially with a nursery tree with no real work done before.

Most of the branches should leave the trunk at a hard angle like the first one. I say most because the ones at the top should start facing up.

I just heard a podcast advising against sealing branch cuts. The logic was that you could "seal" in bacteria forcing worse rotting. The tree has a natural ability to heal. Each to his own.

Good luck.

I agree with Ben, I would cut it on an angle just above first branch on the right. Then wire that branch up as the new leader you will get a much nicer tree
Cheers
Kirky

banong wrote:

Ray M wrote:Hi Banong,
As a precaution, remove the dead wood and seal it to prevent any further rotting.

Maple -2.jpg

Regards Ray

Thanks Ray, i have re-potted recently and roots may not be as stable if i was to use a saw.
Would that be an issue? If not, will get onto that on my next day off.
or just proceed with care and caution.

Hi Banong,
I wouldn't stress the roots anymore. You could put some sealing paste over the dead wood for now. In Spring you should have much stronger roots and you could carve the dead wood out then.

Regards Ray

Was comparing red to green arrow as leader. Thoughts?




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After numerous cuts, cut paste and re-arrangement of the branches here is where I'm at!

Thanks for the advice guys!

Looks great with the movement, I like it, but you're going to get reverse taper problems if you leave the 2nd left hand side (as you view it in the picture) branch there long term. Leave it for now, but if you can get one growing up a bit away from where the branch chop was, I would use it and get rid of the trouble one.

Beano wrote:Looks great with the movement, I like it, but you're going to get reverse taper problems if you leave the 2nd left hand side (as you view it in the picture) branch there long term. Leave it for now, but if you can get one growing up a bit away from where the branch chop was, I would use it and get rid of the trouble one.

should look out for a branch where the cut paste ends? on top?

Hi Banong,
Could these be possibilities
OR cutback to the bottom branch and restart the tree.
Regards Ray

Yes Ray,I like your last suggestion, to get rid of that very long straight trunk.

agree but where the lowest branch is would be the go, where the notch is about an inch above the nebari or the first branch is , but i'd lean towards the lower notch. It seems a waste of tree i know but the result in 10 years is something that a young fella like you can look forward to