AusBonsai

Hey all! You guys helped me out heaps with my Japanese maple, so was hoping you could help me with my Chinese elm.

This is growing really strongly and I'm happy with the size of the trunk (it has a wire tourniquet under the soil to help with the flare) and I'm thinking of cutting it back to the red lines in the attached picture.

When I repot it this season, I would also plant it so that the remaining branch more vertical as well, so planting it on a slight angle.

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

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Hi ramathaham,

If you're happy with the trunk girth you'd be better off cutting off the thickest branch at the top fork. You'll lose some of that nice mature bark but you'll get some movement and taper in the trunk. You could also cut back further to the lower branches if you want more severe taper. Depends on what sort of tree you want.

Matt.

I agree with Matt, I would cut to just above the second branch, more tapper and more movement. A much better tree in the long run. I would still tilt the planting angel a little raising the second branch, which is showing signs of mature bark starting on it.
Cheers
Kirky

would cut the largest trunk out the top too and keep the apex in the branch below it. (the one you were indicating to cut)

Ken

It's hard to see 3 dimensionally from a photo and also you haven't taken the photo straight on, it's slightly from above, but I think this is what everyone is suggesting. I'd cut all the indicated branches off. You'll be left with a trunk line with good taper, then regrow the top and branches from there. I'd probably wait til spring but others here would know if you can do it now.

Hey guys thanks so much for the input and sorry about the poorer picture quality on these ones.

Definitely good points raised, I hadn't considered the taper issue with leaving the bigger branch as I initially intended, so I'm thinking I will more or less cut to the above picture and see how it goes.

When would be the best time to cut it back? Keeping in mind also that I need to do some major root work on it this season also.

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You can cut it now and do the major root work next month before bud burst.
Cheers
Krky

I think everyone is getting carried away with the trunk that we can see. The ideas are all good but maybe a little premature.

First priority should always be the nebari (roots joining the trunk) In this case I cannot see any sign of any roots at all. That could mean that there is more trunk below the soil. If so, you will design a fabulous tree with great proportions then find out later that the trunk is actually much taller which may spoil the design. This does happen. I have seen it
If the major roots are all on one side it would enable you to lean the tree substantially. That will change the trunk line a lot and may make some trunk options more difficult.Always find out where the roots are before making decisions about the trunk.
So please scrape away enough soil to show us where the first main roots are. Then we will be able to give better design options.

Great point that Shibui makes, worth while to wait until you see what the tree tells you with its roots
Maybe you will find something you didn't expect
I know because I have made that mistake too actually a few times . After sorting the roots I have thought
OH bugger!!!! should have left that branch of trunk leader etc
This is a habbit I'm still developing, to start at the ground, then go up.
A good start makes you a good elm, though it may be longer to develop.

Fair call especially with Chinese elm that often have chunky dominant roots.