
DIFFICULT TRIDENT MAPLE
- Matthew
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DIFFICULT TRIDENT MAPLE
This tree has been a problem child. Its one of those tridents that don't like to ramify much, don't throw many buds on older wood so I have to graft branches were I want them. Yet I put up with it as that base has got it going on. I need to graft at least two new branches and I allowed that first graft to get too thick too fast and it should of pointed up slightly
. Its a very frustrating tree.

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Last edited by Matthew on July 17th, 2017, 12:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- bodhidharma
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Re: DIFFICULT TRIDENT MAPLE
I can relate Matthew, i have one of them also 

Last edited by bodhidharma on July 17th, 2017, 3:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Advice is rarely welcome, and the one's who need it the most welcome it the least"
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Re: DIFFICULT TRIDENT MAPLE
great base Matt.
You could graft a whole set of new branches in a better foliage type or just put up with courser ramification.
I have found that these course tridents tend to get much better bases then their finer branched cousins.
You could graft a whole set of new branches in a better foliage type or just put up with courser ramification.
I have found that these course tridents tend to get much better bases then their finer branched cousins.
- Matthew
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Re: DIFFICULT TRIDENT MAPLE
JowJow wrote:great base Matt.
You could graft a whole set of new branches in a better foliage type or just put up with courser ramification.
I have found that these course tridents tend to get much better bases then their finer branched cousins.
good food for thought. I have another one with a ripper base but even bigger issues up top so I might do that or if you get up here in the next few weeks you can do it for me


- Keep Calm and Ramify
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Re: DIFFICULT TRIDENT MAPLE
Yes agree - even with just the existing lower branch graft gone?tgward wrote:have you considered completely removing the bottom two branches and that first front branch?
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Re: DIFFICULT TRIDENT MAPLE
I wonder if it is a different strain of trident? I also have one which has produced a magnificent flared base and roots but poor branch structure and ramification. It also has green new growth while the normal ones have reddish tips.
I'm pretty sure it came from the same seed source as my other tridents though so it should not be a separate variety.
I'm pretty sure it came from the same seed source as my other tridents though so it should not be a separate variety.
http://shibuibonsai.com.au/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: DIFFICULT TRIDENT MAPLE
I have noticed the green buds on these also.shibui wrote:I wonder if it is a different strain of trident? I also have one which has produced a magnificent flared base and roots but poor branch structure and ramification. It also has green new growth while the normal ones have reddish tips.
I'm pretty sure it came from the same seed source as my other tridents though so it should not be a separate variety.
I have an old imported trident that was brought in in the 90s that has this trait.
- Matthew
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Re: DIFFICULT TRIDENT MAPLE
I think all these types of trident came from some original imports . Mine came from a well known grower in Olinda so im sure some of you know him. Yes the new growth is the same as described above. I might graft a whole new set of branches on this early spring as a experiment .Jow wrote:I have noticed the green buds on these also.shibui wrote:I wonder if it is a different strain of trident? I also have one which has produced a magnificent flared base and roots but poor branch structure and ramification. It also has green new growth while the normal ones have reddish tips.
I'm pretty sure it came from the same seed source as my other tridents though so it should not be a separate variety.
I have an old imported trident that was brought in in the 90s that has this trait.
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- treeman
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Re: DIFFICULT TRIDENT MAPLE
By looking at the small branches up top I'm not convinced that it's difficult to ramify Matthew.
How are you training it?
It's imperative that you thin to 2 shoots every winter and after defoliating every year. After that let new shoots grow until you have 3 pairs of leaves and the tips. Cut to 2 or 1 pair and defoliate. Remove EVERY single branch where there is more than 2 coming from one spot, let grow and repeat
Next winter thin out again and repeat. If you don't thin out excessive branches you will get swellings and the ones you want will grow slower because they have to share everything with the unwanted ones so be absolutely ruthless in removing everything not needed! I cannot repeat this enough and it's the most common mistake/problem I see with tridents and palmatums. If you don't do this you can end up with 5 or more shoots from the one spot and all your previous hard work will be for nothing because you will eventually be forced to cut it all off and start again. At the risk of monotony, 2 into 2 into 2 always! And don't pinch too early like palmatum. Let grow - cut back - defoliate -(wire?) etc.
How are you training it?
It's imperative that you thin to 2 shoots every winter and after defoliating every year. After that let new shoots grow until you have 3 pairs of leaves and the tips. Cut to 2 or 1 pair and defoliate. Remove EVERY single branch where there is more than 2 coming from one spot, let grow and repeat
Next winter thin out again and repeat. If you don't thin out excessive branches you will get swellings and the ones you want will grow slower because they have to share everything with the unwanted ones so be absolutely ruthless in removing everything not needed! I cannot repeat this enough and it's the most common mistake/problem I see with tridents and palmatums. If you don't do this you can end up with 5 or more shoots from the one spot and all your previous hard work will be for nothing because you will eventually be forced to cut it all off and start again. At the risk of monotony, 2 into 2 into 2 always! And don't pinch too early like palmatum. Let grow - cut back - defoliate -(wire?) etc.
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Last edited by treeman on July 18th, 2017, 1:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mike
- Matthew
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Re: DIFFICULT TRIDENT MAPLE
Miketreeman wrote:By looking at the small branches up top I'm not convinced that it's difficult to ramify Matthew.
How are you training it?
It's imperative that you thin to 2 shoots every winter and after defoliating every year. After that let new shoots grow until you have 3 pairs of leaves and the tips. Cut to 2 or 1 pair and defoliate. Remove EVERY single branch where there is more than 2 coming from one spot, let grow and repeat
Next winter thin out again and repeat. If you don't thin out excessive branches you will get swellings and the ones you want will grow slower because they have to share everything with the unwanted ones so be absolutely ruthless in removing everything not needed! I cannot repeat this enough and it's the most common mistake/problem I see with tridents and palmatums. If you don't do this you can end up with 5 or more shoots from the one spot and all your previous hard work will be for nothing because you will eventually be forced to cut it all off and start again. At the risk of monotony, 2 into 2 into 2 always! And don't pinch too early like palmatum. Let grow - cut back - defoliate -(wire?) etc.
you maybe onto something... Im repotting the next few weekends so no doubt ill play around with this at some point. I still think compared to a lot of tridents ive had for the same number of years the branch development is so far behind .