AusBonsai

These were purchased 2 years ago as flowering potted plants and planted into a grow bed which was fertilized with Rustica Plus .They grew like noxious weeds but didn't flower so after a discussion with Shibui some time back they have been removed trimmed and flat cut wired then potted up into pot plant containers and some movement applied to the leaders Wifey is not happy bu I did severe the trunks 4 weeks without her knowledge , now she can hopefully enjoy a display in the front window . All the severed roots will be dug in hopefully producing a few more root cuttings , I did take a few root cutting sucessfully when I purchased them , I will bury them into the grow beds and fatten a few more trunks .

Cheers Alpineart

These are 3 of the root cuttings that have had a bit of Alpineart treatment , just to be different The roots have been retained and used for fused bases , a little bit of effort hopefully for greater rewards .

These will be planted out in the yard at the base of a terrace and the leaders will be buried creating a new layer . After the trunks have developed i will remove them leaving the layers in position . I will still have 3 bonsai trainers and Karen will have her Wisteria left in the ground

Cheers Alpineart

That's an interesting root binding "Alpineart treatment" technique I haven't come across but thinking why it shouldn't work . Would be interesting to see how fusing the roots will be in a year or two. . Please keep us posted.

Hi Hal , mate they fuse in pots and in the ground very quickly if not separated , so given the method of "no choice" they should fuse quite well .

Cheers . Alpine

These 2 were re-potted a few days ago , no flower buds by the look of things but their still green .

Cheers Alpineart

Nice potential in the second one, floribunda require very specific pruning to bring them into flower and keep them flowering year after year.

Hi Elmer , could you elaborate on the pruning technique .

Cheers . Alpine

I was told that too years ago, however never told the “secret” of how to prune.
However have found if you want flowers keep in full sun water well, feed up until about December normally. Then include potash / tomato food, I give it both buy the hand full every couple of weeks until leaf drop just water it in and you should have flowers come Spring.
Wisteria’s are hungry buggers and love sun, food, water and more food. Followed by lots of potash.
Cheers
Kirky

alpineart wrote:Hi Elmer , could you elaborate on the pruning technique .

Cheers . Alpine

Hi Alpine,
I grew many potted wisteria (nonbonsai) for about 20yrs and was given these tips by a world recognised expert as I had the same problem, lots of lush growth but no flowers.
Let growth extend until 5-6 leaves have hardened off then cut back to first 2 or 3 leaves (3 if internode is short 2 if long). Keep well watered from bud break until mid autumn, a water tray can be used but only if the tree drains it daily, some drying is good in winter once bare. Feed reasonably heavy but never any nitrogen unless you want lots of growth for thickening, as members of the Fabaceae family they are able to fix nitrogen and use what they make. Give as much sun as possible, shaded branches will not flower well, instead making runners to try and get out to the light. If they were grown from cuttings or layers of mature flowering plants they should come back into flower with this regimen in a year or two, once branches start to flower they tend not to produce running growth.
All the best, there is no more beautiful sight than a wisteria in full bloom.
Elmer

PS this applies to W.floribunda varieties, other species have different quirks

Hi KIRKY and Elmer thanks for the replies . I'm a bit lost with wisteria so the info provided will be put to good use .

I did power feed these when they were in the ground and also allowed them to run riot just to fatten them up . with a bit of luck they might just flower next season .

Cheers . Alpine