Kurume Azalea
Posted: September 12th, 2017, 2:27 pm
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(which could also be rectified by simple pruning even if the trunk stays at the current angle)and also in 2d gives the awkwardness of the pad going back to the trunk against flow from the ramification (hard to explain that one in print).
Thanks Anthony. I tend to agree with you. I believe I will leave the planted position as is but I will perhaps bring the apex to the right slightly as well as the right side of the tree down just a little. (Note that the first pic is not quite level) I think that would give it more stability without compromising what you have talked about.anthonyW wrote:I m thinking different to the other posters with maybe the exception of Gerard who has alluded but not quite sure,but maybe I can turn im lol
Let me explain why the original is clearly the best from where i am sitting...the tree has a bias to the left,if we note the first branch is set very low and reaching very flat as outward...this gives great character to the tree,structurally and and aesthetically,..why and how !?.. because the main trunk has gradual taper which is good but on its own lacks presence,but with the low branch working the nice bias/slant with the main to the left our eye focuses on both them dancing that way as a team with there elegance...bends crooked,small leaf, small flower which equals balance and flow.
Now tilting up especially with now our a new front elevation our lower branch now gels into the next branch losing its character and pad with next branch and pad on the same side, basically losing its individualism/soul... and nearly putting the bottom of the branch/pad on closer plane with the other side (right side)....and also in 2d gives the awkwardness of the pad going back to the trunk against flow from the ramification (hard to explain that one in print).
And in finishing the low branch coming up in height and closer plane to other side and allusion with gelling with next branch on its side looses for viewing front on for flowers if only in allusion and counterproductive to the beauty of its many flowers.
So what I am saying is,your tree will lose its integrity of the design if tilted imo ..thats why you originally designed it that way Mike...thanks for a say,food for thought maybe cheers
Anthony.
Yep flowering now but there are lots of unopened buds.bodhidharma wrote:Lovely tree Mike. Gotta ask though, is it flowering now or is that an older picture? Mine are nowhere near being in flower yet.
Kirin is a bit weaker than others In my experience but generally they handle root work well. They need less water - or they are more sensitive to too much water - than satsuki.Ilithya wrote:Sir Treeman, is kurume/Kirin is very sensitive when you prune the roots and when is the best time to do it?
Thank you
Ilithya
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
treeman wrote:Kirin is a bit weaker than others In my experience but generally they handle root work well. They need less water - or they are more sensitive to too much water - than satsuki.Ilithya wrote:Sir Treeman, is kurume/Kirin is very sensitive when you prune the roots and when is the best time to do it?
Thank you
Ilithya
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Repot before or after flowering. If before (better for the tree) pull the buds off. Repot in spring only
treeman wrote:Thanks Anthony. I tend to agree with you. I believe I will leave the planted position as is but I will perhaps bring the apex to the right slightly as well as the right side of the tree down just a little. (Note that the first pic is not quite level) I think that would give it more stability without compromising what you have talked about.anthonyW wrote:I m thinking different to the other posters with maybe the exception of Gerard who has alluded but not quite sure,but maybe I can turn im lol
Let me explain why the original is clearly the best from where i am sitting...the tree has a bias to the left,if we note the first branch is set very low and reaching very flat as outward...this gives great character to the tree,structurally and and aesthetically,..why and how !?.. because the main trunk has gradual taper which is good but on its own lacks presence,but with the low branch working the nice bias/slant with the main to the left our eye focuses on both them dancing that way as a team with there elegance...bends crooked,small leaf, small flower which equals balance and flow.
Now tilting up especially with now our a new front elevation our lower branch now gels into the next branch losing its character and pad with next branch and pad on the same side, basically losing its individualism/soul... and nearly putting the bottom of the branch/pad on closer plane with the other side (right side)....and also in 2d gives the awkwardness of the pad going back to the trunk against flow from the ramification (hard to explain that one in print).
And in finishing the low branch coming up in height and closer plane to other side and allusion with gelling with next branch on its side looses for viewing front on for flowers if only in allusion and counterproductive to the beauty of its many flowers.
So what I am saying is,your tree will lose its integrity of the design if tilted imo ..thats why you originally designed it that way Mike...thanks for a say,food for thought maybe cheers
Anthony.