AusBonsai

Flowers do not change size. Leaves can be reduced in size, flowers cannot.
Therefore, choose small flowering forms.

Getting your bonsai to flower relies on 3 things:
1. When you trim;
2. How you trim; and
3. How well fed your trees are.
Timing: If you trim your trees after they have grown their flower buds, you have cut off the next lot of flowers. For each of your flowering trees learn the deadline for the final trim before flowering. This date varies by species and location.
Trim after flowering, unless fruit is desired (e.g. pomegranate, crabapple, pyracantha).
Trim again later. How much later varies by species. Take note of when you last pruned the tree and if it flowers afterwards.

Trimming: Lots of flowers need lots of branch tips for the flowers to form on. This means more than one trim per year to get lots of ramification on your tree, avoiding trimming too late in the season. See point 1.
A once a year trim after flowering is fine for garden shrubs, but is not sufficient for bonsai, Multiple trims are required to get dense foliage pads covered in flowers.
Some species have flowering spurs. E.g. wisteria. Trim the extension growth and leave the spurs alone.

Fertiliser: A well fed tree should not need special fertiliser to get a good crop of flowers. Special flowering fertilisers may help achieve this goal, but are not essential.
Choose a fertiliser with higher Phosphorus and Potassium levels than general garden fertiliser and use this while the plant is developing its flower buds. This does not need to be overdone, as once the plant has sufficient food of each type (16 nutrients are required for plant growth), extra of any one is unnecessary.
Nitrogen [N] promotes plant growth. It is associated with leafy, vegetative growth.
Phosphorus [P] supports root development and flowering. It is responsible for transferring energy from one point to another in the plant.
Potassium [K] regulates plant metabolism. It is important for good root development and is critical to plant stress tolerance.
Examples of flowering fertilisers are Sudden Impact for Roses [NPK of 9:4:12], Strike Back for Orchids [8:4:10], and Orchid Bloom Booster [15:3:12].
Examples of general garden fertilisers are Nutricote Tree & Shrub [17:4:8] and Osmocote Trees & Shrub [17:2:7].
PS: Most natives do better with normal fertilisers than low Phosphorus ones.

Well documented Steve,

Thanks,
Kevin

Thx. Figured it would be a useful summary.

Thanks Steve ,another facet to master .There sure is a lot to this Bonsai game. . Cheers John.

Just completed an experiment on forests of red bottlebrush and melaleuca linarifolia to figure out the latest date to trim them and have them flower. Both flowered on the trees trimmed on the 1st of March this year. This is for mid north coast of nsw.

Will repeat next year to see how seedling variation affects the outcome.

Thanks SteveW

See... that's what I love about this forum ... out of the blue a knowledgable person just drops a bucket of knowledgable goodness on all of us learners. Very cool.

Simplified and to the point. [OK HAND SIGN]
Can't beat flowers for added interest and beauty.
Thank you

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Watering is the most important part of looking after a bonsai. Different species need differing quantities of water. However, one rule of thumb is to follow the idea that the tree does not ever completely dry out. An easy way to test this is to insert a chop stick into the soil to assess the level of dampness. In general, the idea is that you need to water the trees when the surface soil appears dry.

It would be wise not follow an automatized schedule in watering bonsais. Evergreens in winter require watering just once in a week whereas in summer they need to be watered everyday. The watering should be complete specially because bonsai trees are grown in considerably less soil.

You can determine when your tree needs to be watered by using your sense organs - by observing the leaves, testing the soil just below the surface using your index finger, or simply by feeling how much the pot weighs - there will be a relative difference between a dry tree and a well-watered tree).

The process of assessing water-levels can be made more precise by using what is called a moisture meter. The way it works is very simple - the way the needle moves when you insert it into the soil will tell you if it is time to water.

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Pruning
You don't need to prune a newly bought bonsai. The major goal of trimming and pruning is to shape the bonsai into an attractive form of your liking. A secondary goal is to cut down growth above ground so that there would be a balance between the growth above the surface and the growth below the surface, namely root growth.

The process of shaping begins when the tree is young. Trimming is carried out using sharp scissors or shears. This tool traditionally associated with bonsai trees is called butterfly shears or bonsai shears. The tool is used for removing leaves and light branches. The removal of heavier branches is accomplished using a tool called the concave cutter. The advantage of using a concave cutter is that it allows you to remove branches of all sizes without leaving any visible scars.

Sunlight
Sunlight is indispensable for the growth of trees. Bonsai is ideally placed in a location where there is a lot of sunlight. In certain circumstances such as the time immediately following repotting and after extensive trimming, it is advised not to expose the plant to much sunlight.

Soil
Potted trees do not grow well in soil that is always wet. Potting soil and top soil are heavy, and as a result, they can remain wet for weeks. Bonsai soil is unique because it allows the water to drain freely and at the same time, retain moisture. Additionally, the ingredients allow the roots to breathe air and prevent getting compacted.

Two basic types of bonsai soil are a conifer mix and a tropical/subtropical mix. Before attempting to add soil mixtures, block the drainage holes to make sure that the soil is not lost. Use the soil mixture in its dry state while repotting.

Fertilization
The for bonsai should necessarily consist of three principal components - nitrogen, phosphorus, and potash (NPK). A fertilizer called 'cheated iron' and a vitamin supplement are found to be really good for the bonsai's growth