AusBonsai

I have a JBP that I want to get growing strong. It is currently heavily infested with Oxalis and I would love to repot it sooner than later. It probably has some field soil still under the trunk and a few root issues as well as the Oxalis, so when I repot next it will need bare rooting and fairly heavy root work.

Below picture is from the apex and was cut so the candles are short, but have extended and needles nearly fully out. Have I left it too late this spring and should I wait until autumn?

Hi Dansai

Looks like your tree is in the growing/building phase correct me if I am wrong, not the refining/maintenance phase for a advanced tree.

Having said that you can basically remove the weed and some of the clayey material if you think that will impact on the health,steady but as you are outside the time frame (dead of winter normally for me..last two weeks of July)...basically a little fiddle and slip it...looking at your pic your tree looks very healthy.good.

Now lets move to what looks like the head of your tree,I hope you cut that part to put energy to the rest of the tree (as pines are apical/dominant so we redirect when building), because if it is not your timing is out as you should have candles very well developed there this time of the year.

Hope that helps..don t hesitate to ask more...cheers

Repotting is unlikely to get rid of oxalis. I find that glyphosate is most effective with that and other weeds. Mix glyphosate 50/50 with water then use a paintbrush to wipe it onto the leaves of the weeds. Obviously don't get it on the leaves of the trees.

I have not tried repotting JBP this late so cannot recommend it. I would probably wait until next winter if you want to bare root the tree but others may have tried late repotting and able to give better advice.
If the tree has been in the pot for some time you will need to be very careful over summer. I find that root bound trees can be harder to water properly and suffer from nutrient deficiency more easily.

Thanks Anthony and Neil. It’s wouldn’t be heavily rootbound so I’ll wait for now. As I said it’s going to need some sorting out so best to leave it be til then.

And yes Anthony it is still in development. the trunk is good but the branches are a bit leggy so I've been cutting back hard to encourage back budding. The area photographed is in the apex and has many small buds all coming from a small area. Other areas of the tree has larger candles and one on a sacrifice branch is over 100mm.

I will try the glysophate. I’ve been struggling with the oxalis in this tree. Unfortunately I tried removing some the other day and it flicked seeds everywhere

Hi Dansai.
I think our areas are fairly similar though my jbp candles are longer/more developed at this time.
That may be just that you cut later than me rather than due to the old soil.
The tree looks very healthy and I definitely would not do the work you intend to at this time.
Autumn would be the soonest I might consider but have not tried it myself so can't say with certainty
Personally I would not bare root it until next July. I tried late spring once and the pine died and that was
only reducing roots from grow tub to 12inch orchid pot.
If you do decide to repot let us know how you go.
cheers

Glyphosate will probably not kill nearly ripe seeds. Might be better to take the tree to another spot where the seeds won't be a problem then cut or pull all the oxalis growth to bin/burn then wait for regrowth to use the herbicide.
We soon learn to treat these as soon as they are noticed - well before they set seed pods.
Glyphosate should kill all the plants you get it on but there will still be seed in the soil so more will germinate over the next few years. Need to persist to eradicate this one.

Once the candles have opened and the needles have developed any interference with either end will shock the tree.

There is a video where Ryan Neil explains how to get back budding - basically it’s deed and water heavily and leave tufts of green needles on the end of the branches. The increased flow of nutrients between the roots and the tufts activates buds in the bare areas.

Daluke wrote:Once the candles have opened and the needles have developed any interference with either end will shock the tree.

There is a video where Ryan Neil explains how to get back budding - basically it’s deed and water heavily and leave tufts of green needles on the end of the branches. The increased flow of nutrients between the roots and the tufts activates buds in the bare areas.

You can repot at any time so long as you're not pruning roots, teasing them out is ok.I use glyphosate at normal dose,50-50 seems excessive.

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