AusBonsai

hi everyone I'm just looking for some advice, i have a beautiful melaleuca that i want to dig out i was just wondering whens the best time? and also what soil i should use i.e. just bonsai nursery soil or i have been reading to use sand and gravel? or just pumice? so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
also i haven't been able to figure out how to post pics but when i do ill put some up.

Late spring early summer to dig. like most natives, when actively growing is the best time to repot and collect
re soil, whatever works from you.
check out Grants soil test threads and you will see that blended mixes are far better than single components.

I used Diatomte, Zeolite, Pumice, Akadama mix and if you like add some decomposed pinebark as well.

Very similar to Boon's mix that is very well respected in California.

Ken

And after you pot it put it in a saucer of water. I find mels do so much better when they can draw as much water as they need during the day. Most of mine live permanently in saucers or gravel trays and will dry out the saucer in 2 days without watering. I never re-pot without having them in water afterwards.

Warmer weather seems to be best when transplanting Mels.
I always transfer collected trees straight into the potting mix I use in the pots. I also get rid of most of the soil around the roots. Ordinary soil is deadly in pots.
Agree with Bougie - shallow water tray seems to be best, especially for a few months after collecting.

jackjew wrote:hi everyone I'm just looking for some advice, i have a beautiful melaleuca that i want to dig out i was just wondering whens the best time? and also what soil i should use i.e. just bonsai nursery soil or i have been reading to use sand and gravel? or just pumice? so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
also i haven't been able to figure out how to post pics but when i do ill put some up.

If it's a really special one and you want to be a sure as possible of success, I would advise you to cut around the root ball with a very sharp flat edged spade. Very sharp means filed so you could cut your finger if you ran it along the blade. Then let it sit for at least 6 weeks, then go ahead and dig it out. By doing this you stimulate root initials further back along the roots before you disturb them too much.

Thanks everyone I appreciate it

Mike makes an excellent point. I copied a tree digging shovel that I saw Ken had. It is a spade with the handle removed and a piece of SHS welded in it's place. Then it has a square plate welded on the end and I sharpen the cutting edge with an angle grinder. You then start it by foot to place it and use a sledge hammer to drive it through the roots very cleanly. If I have time I cut through the roots in 2 alternating areas over as long a time period as possible. So method as well as the time of year can have a lot to do with success.

Mike what is a file - isn't that what the ladies use on their nails ?

https://www.frjonesandson.co.uk/product ... shovel-48/

apparently these are pretty popular. I have an all steel very narrow bladed shovel that does a great job too....

I've also seen this one mentioned as being good for cutting roots https://homefixated.com/root-slayer-shovel/

and then there's this...my next purchase, I think. http://www.silkysaws.com.au/hand-saws/g ... parts.html

Beware S.E. Qld!! Mel is going on a yamadori spree, by the sound of it, armed & dangerous (to unsuspecting plants anyway).

it's all yamayardi for me....lol