AusBonsai

Hi All,

I am struggling with these two Junipers in terms of design and what to do next. So far the only thing I seem to be doing right is watering as they grow fine and look healthy.

This little one is my first ever tree I got. Over time due to incorrect wiring it snapped about halfway. Now even though it is growing, I am unsure if it will ever be strong enough to support the new apex?
Design wise I was thinking a windswept style but honestly I am not sure anymore as Junipers isn't an easy species for a noob like me.
Should I airlayer and cut it below where it was snapped and hope for new growth?
Then I have got this larger Juniper which had so much foliage when I got it but again over time due to unnecessary pruning I wasn't left with much. Now there is a good gap between the second branch and the ones up the top. Also, the ones up the top start off horizontal almost and I am lost about the future design and what needs to be done. I was thinking of cutting down further to second branch as the branch on lower part if very strong and I like it very much and aim for a twin trunk style? or try and compress the trunk and bring it down?

I do have a couple more smaller ones but given how difficult I find Junipers at this stage I might not go for anymore for now. Thanks

Hi Bonsaeen, i bought a squamata from the $5 throw out table a year ago, brought it home, raked the roots, potted it into a pot with a very sandy potting mix i made up. It was about 7-800mm high with about a 15-20mm trunk. It's now 1.7m tall with a 40mm trunk and in a need of some bending. I drew a sketch of what i would be happy to have it look like, so that's what i'll aim for. As soon/if Santa brings me the bending tools i need

You are probably making it hard for yourself by seeing what's always ben there rather than what might be.

First question: Do you want a thick impressive bonsai or a small one?
For thick, impressive bonsai get rid of these or plant in a large pot/ garden for 5-10 years and then worry about it.

If you're happy with a relatively small, possibly unimpressive bonsai we may be able to start developing something from either or both.
When I'm assessing the possibilities I look at the tree from all sides. You've only shown us one side of each tree so hard to say whether there are better possibilities from other angles. assessment starts at the base of the trunk looking for the best view. Then look at the trunk to find the best view of that. Then consider the branches as they are. Where can you get the best spread of branches? Does that coincide with either of the previous 2? Now look for features - what do you really want to show people (often on such small stock there's no real features) Finally faults: are there any aspects you would not like people to see? can we hide them or remove them?
Now consider all these aspects together. Where can we get the best overall view? If all the aspects don't coincide with one side which are more important? Where can you see the most good points and less bad points.
All that takes some time turning and tilting the tree, looking at it from all sides and angles and best done in person.

With the little you have given us here are a couple of possibilities:

The first tree has the trunk rising vertically out of the soil Try tilting it either direction so your eye has a better line to follow. Despite your previous problem with bending these should be able to be bent so don't just look at the branches as they are. Imagine them in different directions.

Second , larger tree has the apex going away from the view you've given us Either bend the apex up and forward or look at it from the other side (see 2 above- trunk)

Here are a couple of quick sketches just from what I can see. Neither may be the best the trees can give and if you don't like the look just disregard. There are many possibilities and personal contact with someone who knows what they are doing would give better options tailored to your taste and these particular trees.
I've given 2 options for the smaller tree- upright and cascade. In both cases I've removed the long, main trunk and worked with the first 3 branches. Can't do a virt with the photos so hope that makes some sense.
Larger tree is seen from the other side. Apex is wired up to continue the line of the lower trunk. Branch placement is cursory and could change depending what they actually look like in the bark. both uprights really need some back branches which will need to either grow of be wired in place from one or more of the existing branches. again, may or may not be possible with the material.

Another possibility could be planting both together & begin styling a new composition as a twin trunk setting.
You know... mother/daughter, father/son, rich old businessman/trophy wife.

Thanks all for your replies. Thanks Shibui for such a detailed reply. This is what I have done with the smaller juniper.
This is where it originally snapped. There is some dead wood. Should I be doing something with it now or wait? Like lime sulpher treatment or not?

Also, how do you keep the branches small with Junipers? They seem to keep growing and the older branch doesn't get shoots. So how do you keep them small what is the pruning technique? Thanks

Even juniper dead wood will rot away which would leave a hollow part in this trunk. If you want to preserve the dead part it should be painted with lime sulphur a couple of times each year. Start lime sulphur treatment as soon as the wood dries out - usually a week or so after creating.

Keeping branches small on most bonsai is a constant problem. More difficult on species with long internodes and coarse growth.
Regular pinching and pruning is the first avenue for controlling growth. Cut or break the ends of shoots whenever they grow too long for the design. As longas you do not cut past the needles the juniper should make new buds and grow fresh shoots but instead of only one shoot there will be 2 or more - that makes ramification and builds density in the branches -
Even with regular pinching the branches will still extend a little each year, especially on conifers because we can't cut back to bare wood. Every year or 2 you will need to remove the ends of the branches and replace with a shoot from further back (wire a side shoot so it is now the terminal). You can see the importance of having plenty of branches and shoots right back along each branch so you have plenty of options when cut back is required.
You should find that your juniper will occasionally grow new buds on the bare branches, especially when it is well fed and cared for and especially when you trim the end growth.
All this takes place on a timescale of years rather than days or weeks like we want it to.