AusBonsai

Sorry if this opens a can of worms....

I am doing my absolute head in reading about soil mixes. Organic, inorganic, ratios, particle size, super magical properties of akadama, blah blah blah. I think I'm just reading way too much into it as I understand you need to adapt your watering/fert schedules to match the mix anyway.

Here are my goals: I'm after something easily available from a store in Adelaide, that is reasonably economical, and general enough that I can use it on a variety of things - natives just out of a forestry tube, large figs, freshly-collected material, etc. I'm happy to mix things myself if required and adjust slightly per tree.

So, Adelaide friends, what do you use and where do you get it?

before people start with the trolling lol, i will give you some guideline for what to look for to give you the properties you want.

the main three are

1. free draining
2. aeration of the roots (allows oxygen to enter)
3. good water retention

after that you are looking for good CEC (cation exchange capacity to allow nutrient flow and storage for the plant) and potentially slow breakdown of the medium to encourage formation of feeder roots throughout the potting mediums life (this is where akadama shines as it fractures and breaks down through development pof the root system to encourage ramification both below and above the soil)

each potting medium component has different levels of these, or sometimes only some, but by assessing each and see which does what, and then coming up with a few that achieve at least the big 3, then you are on your way to a solid mix.

Another thing to consider is your climate, if it gets bloody hot or hellishly cold, the mediums will need to stand up to that by either holding more water (organic portions might be the go here for you) or by resisting freezing and breakdown for freeze fracturing.

There is no perfect mix of medium, but if you realise what you need and asses your locally available product to meet those demands you can develop the recipe over time to fine tune it.

Hope this helps

G

I went through a similar problem when I started.

At the end of day I am not a horticulturist so I derided that I would keep my mix simple.( The old KISS principal )

I use a good quality native mix and just add zeolite.In the early days(before Zeolite)I would add 2mm to 3mm gravel .

Used on all my trees for 22 years.

Kind Regards,

Peter

PeterH wrote: ↑June 4th, 2020, 12:13 pm I use a good quality native mix and just add zeolite.In the early days(before Zeolite)I would add 2mm to 3mm gravel .

Thanks Peter, simple is good. I've admired more than a few of your trees on here so more than happy to follow your advice!

OK, I will give an Adelaide perspective.

My basic mix for most things is 1/3 organic and 2/3 inorganic. The organic part is generally a good quality potting mix. The inorganic part is made up from what I have around at the time, generally pumice, diatomite and zeolite. I grade my inorganic components into small, medium and large so I can use the right particle size for my goal. For example, collected trees will go into a mix using large particles, while small trees in bonsai pots use the small particles.

I normally water my trees once a day in summer and I have not had any trees die of thirst because of this mix.

The only exception to the above is if I have advice that a particular species of tree does not like a particular component, or I can get better growth with a different mix. For example, my JBP are gown in 50/50 pumice and orchiata bark (3-6mm).

Hope that helps. If you want any more info, I'm happy if you want to PM me.

cheers

I'm also in the KISS camp. I use the same mix for all the trees here - pines, maples, natives, banksias.
I use a lot of mix so now I get it made up from a commercial company. 70% small pine bark, 30% propagating sand with a little zeolite and the fertilisers and trace elements needed to balance the mix.
Before the commercial mix I used Debco 'tub and terracotta' bagged mix from any nursery. It seemed to have the large particle size and good aeration we expect from a modern bonsai mix.

As already mentioned, you can adapt care to grow most trees in most mixes so don't get too bogged down with the minute details and miracle components.

Another Adelaide perspective here, 3 scoops diatomite, 2 scoops zeolite and 1 scoop organic (either orchiata bark nuggets or general orchid mix). I've found with this mix you can not overwater and is very forgiving if accidentally missing a watering too. I have substituited a scoop of zeolite for pumice when it is around too. I use this mix unaltered for all my trees.

I have some akadama but havn't tried it yet as none of my deciduous trees are quite ready for ramification/refinement. I find the widespread belief of its self scaling behaviouor interesting as I havent been able to find any scientific evidence/journals reporting of this behaviour. The only thing I could find is that Akadamas pores that roots apparently grow through are much smaller than the growing root tip..... hmmm. Maybe a little root hair grows through and expands? Or maybe it just breaks down from root pressure externally? Obviously there is something to akadama breaking down as the tree grows otherwise it wouldn't be as popular as it is.

Here in Adelaide I use the same as terryb, 1 third organic (orchid mix or potting mix), 2 thirds inorganic (daitomite, pumice). The only variation I use is pure inorganic for pines, and I add crushed egg shells for junipers. You can buy all the ingredients other than the egg shells at Bonsai Mujo on main north rd.

Once you get a basic mix you can add variations to come up with your own witches brew. Zeolite, akadama, neem from hydro stores, whatever you can find and afford. But start with a basic mix.

Matt.

Bonsai Mujo, as stated above by Matt S, is where to go to get all the mix ingredients in Adelaide. They've got pretty much everything you'll need.

Hopefully these videos help-

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ccOGUj9b6dc

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Pij3eGv-nW0

Cheers all, much appreciated. There's a lot of info out there but I think I've definitely been over-thinking it. My wife is unwell today so I might drag my tiny human along for a reconnaissance mission to Bonsai Mujo instead of doing any work

greg27 wrote:Cheers all, much appreciated. There's a lot of info out there but I think I've definitely been over-thinking it. My wife is unwell today so I might drag my tiny human along for a reconnaissance mission to Bonsai Mujo instead of doing any work

You must go there. Bonsai mujo is the best! I get my pumice from there plus whatever new stock tree I don’t need


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Matt S wrote: ↑June 4th, 2020, 7:08 pm 1 third organic (orchid mix or potting mix), 2 thirds inorganic (daitomite, pumice)

This is so simple. Why do soil mixes get so complicated?

Complication is a state of mind / soil suppliers

I am a newbie to posting, so be kind.
Since my interest in bonsai has been rekindled due to a coupe of visits to Japan, I have rejoined my local bonsai society and have learnt more in the last few months than I did in the 30 years of just muddling along by myself.
I felt during the past that I was an outsider when going to club meetings.
This has changed completely since I have rejoined the club.
Everyone has been so welcoming and helpful.
In the past, I was a bit mystified and overawed by the subject of soil mixes, even after reading many books on bonsai.
In my own newbie way these days, I have come to be bolder and have started using my own soil mix.
It consists of 15%(roughly) of orchid bark fines,70% pumice and the rest zeolite.
My trees have never looked better and I find they look brighter and more healthy.
Sorry for rambling, but if there are any other scared weird little newbies that might feel overawed by the science of soil mixes, just keep the basics in mind.
Drainage, moisture retention and airflow.
Rant over-lol