AusBonsai

Hi everyone,

I was wanting input on how to continue the development of this twin trunk JBP that I got from Ryan. I have cut back quite hard (back to 50-75mm stumps) all the rest of my pines in this group and they are all popping with new buds. I want to maintain this one as a twin trunk. Is the best way to develop a good twin trunk, with multiple branch options, to cut it back equally and then wire up a new shoot as each trunk leader.

My aim in the next stage is to keep shoots down low and to also keep the main trunk shape. I feel confident about how to get new buds, but I guess my question is will branches wired up straight still give good trunk lines.

There are good shoots low down on the left hand trunk - the right hand trunk has fewer shoots and they are less developed.

i watched an interesting video on youtube." Growing bonsai from seed " done by Bonsai Empire. He gives examples of a black pine grown from seed to it's 1yr, 2yr up to his 20 yr old one. Check it out.

Max wrote: ↑January 20th, 2021, 10:36 am i watched an interesting video on youtube." Growing bonsai from seed " done by Bonsai Empire. He gives examples of a black pine grown from seed to it's 1yr, 2yr up to his 20 yr old one. Check it out.

This is the first video I have seen that has this sort of comparison. Combine it with Jonas' blog posts on black pine at https://bonsaitonight.com/ and it makes a nice resource to method vs development

When trying to develop twin trunks it is much easier if one dominates the other, a little taller and a little thicker. This will make it much easier to give the composition 'direction'

Gerard wrote: ↑January 20th, 2021, 2:03 pm When trying to develop twin trunks it is much easier if one dominates the other, a little taller and a little thicker. This will make it much easier to give the composition 'direction'

This pretty much echoes what I would add. With that in mind, considering the better budding down low is on the left trunk, I would look to develop the right hand one as the taller side. i.e: look to promote extra growth on the right and maintain/check the growth of the one on the left.
It's still young though, so all in all building growth in it's entirety would probably be most beneficial... nice to see it looking so healthy.

I have cut back quite hard

Photo does not appear to show any cut back or regrowth??
The others have already pointed out the importance of difference in thickness and height for twin trunk bonsai. Be aware that adding a second trunk multiplies the difficulty of getting all the elements in all the desirable places so just starting one twin trunk may not achieve the desired show quality bonsai.

Branches wired up will give you good trunk lines but rather than looking for straight lines try to be open to bends and changes of line at each cut back point. Straight trunks are far harder to achieve than informal upright shape which is reflected in the relative numbers of formal upright and informal upright trees shown world wide.

If you are confident on getting replacement buds as the trunks grow you are good to go with further development.

Thanks Neil - I wasn't clear - I have cut back hard all the other pines that I got from Ryan - just being little hesitant to cut into twin trunks. But what I understand is cut and work with what the tree gives you.

That explains why this one has no sign of having been pruned.
When you know how the pines respond to cuts in given locations you can cut to produce what you want to some extent.
With pines there's just a few things to remember:
1. Pines are reluctant to bud on bare wood so when I prune I leave some needles or a side shoot.
2. Individual needles on JBP live for 2-3 years then fall off. That means I can let a developing tree grow without pruning for 2 years then cut back to the oldest needles and expect new buds to build more structure.
3. There are pines with different responses to pruning. JBP and red pines are known as dual flush species. If they are pruned in spring and summer they will grow new buds the same season. Single flush pines like white pines only grow buds in spring so if they are pruned in summer new buds only form the following spring.
4. Pruning in autumn and winter usually results in strong new buds come spring but pruning in early summer will see new shoots that are much smaller later in summer (dual flush species)

Your pines are only a couple of years old and still have healthy needles down the trunk right to the ground so you can prune anywhere and expect new shoots to grow from needles. You could also elect to leave them be and prune next spring or early summer. The delay should result in additional thickening and the older needles will still be there to produce buds until sometime in mid summer. Leave them longer and the oldest needles will fall off and it may be difficult to get shoots low down on the right trunk. you will need to decide whether you want branches in the lower section of that trunk and prune it to force new shoots. Left trunk already has low shoots so no problem there. When the time comes just prune and wire one shoot up as a replacement trunk.
At some stage you will need to decide which trunk will be the dominant larger one and slow growth of the other to make sure it does not get too tall or too thick.