AusBonsai

I’m after some styling advice for this JM.

The way I see it, there are (at least) two issues here:

1. Lack of low branching - the first branches are at the bottom of the cut where pretty much all the other branches also emerge. I grew out the two branches on either side to help thicken the trunk last year and maybe they both need to go. If the tree moves in that direction there will still be two thinner branches that I can exploit to grow out some pads.







2. The nebari is (far) less than ideal since the tree seems to be standing on two legs. I’m not sure if it can be salvaged at all. But potentially there’s a way to train the tree on an appropriate rock. I don’t know what’s under the soil but I do know that the tree is pot bound now, and I need to reduce the circling roots this season.






I’d appreciate any suggestions.

Of course there’s always the possibility to leave it as a source for air layers.

Cheers,
Harshad

How bout taking out all the branches and starting out with the trunk and developing new branches something like this pic. Place it at an angle and try to accentuate the curves as the tree develops.
The other think you might need to consider is the roots looks like there are two thick roots and not a lot of finer ones so might be a good idea to either try to graft some roots or air layer so you get a nice radial pattern, I have done it with plums and the radial patter you get is really nice.
The other option is to try and do a root over rock style with those root assuming there are more long roots in the pot ! Number of options there.

Your markup is essentially what I had in mind. Interesting suggestion with the air layering idea. It's a good suggestion.

I would advise against using a rock to disguise bad roots. By the time roots get to this stage they are inflexible so hard to find a rock that will fit the roots, impossible to bend the roots to fit a rock so it never looks like it actually grew there.

Layering is the best, reliable and fastest way to replace roots. layering could also solve the problem of branches too high. Just layer further up the trunk.

Definitely time to get rid of the sacrifice branches. JM are prone to over thickening where too many branches grow close. If it has not already started to thicken it won't be far away. You may also get over thickening as the callus forms after removing those 2 thick branches given they are so close and opposite.
One good characteristic of JM is the tendency to produce lots of shoots from branch collars so when branches are removed there is nearly always new shoots from the base of the branch which can either be removed or grown into new branches.

Do not be tempted to use branches with long internodes for basic structure. You won't realize how awful it looks until much later. Far better to step backwards now to start with better structure.

Thanks for the advice.

If I don't want long internodes going forward, would it be best to then put the airlayered bit into an inorganic mix? I seem to recall reading that organic mixes are good for developing trunks, and inorganic mixes are good for developing ramification. I'm assuming this may be generally true, so thinking ahead, would it be better to develop the branching in an inorganic mix?

Particle size, fertilisation and a maintenance regime is what gets you small internode length.

Having tried both organic and inorganic ( the Japanese Akadama/pumice/ lava rock combination) mixes for my JMs, I can say the inorganic absolutely blows goats in our climate, and they are much happier in an organic or part organic mix at least here in Melbourne.

That's good info thanks! I think its going to be trial and error for a bit for me.