AusBonsai

This trident started to exhibit signs of a serious leaf affliction in 2006 and it gradually got worse. Regular repotting showed there is absolutely NOTHING wrong with the soil or roots, the roots are as healthy and the soil as well drained as one would want. A pathology test indicated it was a fungal disease and it was recommended to treat it with Yates BRAVO - active constituent "500g/litre chlorothalonil in the form of a suspension concentrate". Yates Bravo is available over the counter in NZ but only in 10 litre drums for agricultural use in Australia.

I got the product in mid October and have been heavily spraying the tree every fortnight. The second spraying followed defoliation but in hindsight I feel I mixed the solution too weak to really be effective. I increased the dosage strength in mid November and the improvement was immediate if not totally widespread. New leaves are coming out beautiful and undamaged. There are still areas where the leaves are distorted.

Looking at the tree branches in half yearly photos it is apparent that they have barely thickened in the past 5 years so I don't want to put additional stress on this trident by defoliating again in January. I will partially defoliate by removing some of the more damaged leaves. I am feeding regularly with Charlie Carp and I will move it to a seedling tray training pot in July to give it a year with more root room to see if I can give it a growing boost.

Chlorothalonil definitely treats this fungal problem.

The problem is fungal and if you can find a product on the commercial shelves that contains chlorothalonil go for it. I fill a 500 ml bottle with the mixed solution, cover the soil with newspaper and literally drench the tree, spraying from every possible angle and then let it dry before putting it back on the bench. My three other tridents have never been afflicted with this even tho one has been benched next to this one for months.

This is a photo of the tree taken yesterday [30 Dec 09]. Still a way to go but it has come a long way with the treatment.

Thanks for the info MelaQuin and wot a beautiful tree.

Its good to see the cat so interested in this tree.

Ya Great News Mela congratulations. This gives me great hope. Now I just need to get hold of some of that stuff!
I almost went down the pathology test avenue as I was sick of taking shots in the dark at treating this. It could have cost a couple of hundred dollars but then it may have gotten close to $1000 and then no result was guaranteed so I have just kept firing from the hip. Did they give the fungal disease a name?
Can I ask how much the pathology test cost and where it was done it would be valuable information in the future.

Thanks Heeaapps for posting the information Mela

Great info . . . I have a Trident which is affected way worse than yours by the looks . . . : (( + one other Trident which only is affected on one side, and a Kashima Maple which is showing symptoms too . . . so, any more info on the fungus type would be great - cheers

MelaQuin wrote:

Trident Pat 2006-10.jpg

This trident started to exhibit signs of a serious leaf affliction in 2006 and it gradually got worse. Regular repotting showed there is absolutely NOTHING wrong with the soil or roots, the roots are as healthy and the soil as well drained as one would want. A pathology test indicated it was a fungal disease and it was recommended to treat it with Yates BRAVO - active constituent "500g/litre chlorothalonil in the form of a suspension concentrate". Yates Bravo is available over the counter in NZ but only in 10 litre drums for agricultural use in Australia.

I got the product in mid October and have been heavily spraying the tree every fortnight. The second spraying followed defoliation but in hindsight I feel I mixed the solution too weak to really be effective. I increased the dosage strength in mid November and the improvement was immediate if not totally widespread. New leaves are coming out beautiful and undamaged. There are still areas where the leaves are distorted.

Looking at the tree branches in half yearly photos it is apparent that they have barely thickened in the past 5 years so I don't want to put additional stress on this trident by defoliating again in January. I will partially defoliate by removing some of the more damaged leaves. I am feeding regularly with Charlie Carp and I will move it to a seedling tray training pot in July to give it a year with more root room to see if I can give it a growing boost.

Chlorothalonil definitely treats this fungal problem.

The problem is fungal and if you can find a product on the commercial shelves that contains chlorothalonil go for it. I fill a 500 ml bottle with the mixed solution, cover the soil with newspaper and literally drench the tree, spraying from every possible angle and then let it dry before putting it back on the bench. My three other tridents have never been afflicted with this even tho one has been benched next to this one for months.

This is a photo of the tree taken yesterday [30 Dec 09]. Still a way to go but it has come a long way with the treatment.

Trident Pat 2009-12.jpg

Sounds good Mel, where did you buy the product in sydney (500g/l chlorothalonil drum)? Id like to get some for my trees.

As it is only available in commercial quantities in Australia I would think the Farm centres are the place to go. I have contacted our local farm centre but being the time of year rep's are on holiday so I plan to put a torch under some ones arse on Tuesday and get some prices.
I believe this is the stuff we need.
http://www.bayercropscience.com.au/cs/p ... asp?id=210
It states 20L Mela states there is a 10L so maybe that is another brand?
The other option is to get one of our Kiwi mates to buy some in the smaller 200ml Yates Bravo size and send it over.
I have searched NZ online stores and can't find any one selling it
Yates where not very helpful on Thursday when I called them but again it is that time of year. Maybe Yates NZ will send some over but I am thinking it might be easier just to buy the large container locally.
The first one to buy one could sell Litre bottles of the stuff to the rest of us!

Yates sell Bravo in NZ at Mitre10, Bunnings and Kmart according to their NZ website. Unfortunately it is not registered for domestic use in Australia and therefore it is not a case of simply buying a 250 or 500 ml bottle and sending it over. Confiscation would be the name of the game. It is odourless and its milky colour looks a lot like hair conditioner or shampoo.

It took a bit of talking but I managed to get this BRAVO WEATHERSTIK
http://www.syngenta.com.au/Start.aspx?P ... ctID=66608
added to an order that is going out to Cowra today. So looks like a trip out to the Cowra gardens
A bit of added information about this stuff is that it does not kill the fungus. It is a protectant. It will stop new leaves from getting it. This one I managed to get is a super duper excellent retention one that will stay on in weather longer.

Also this is 720g/L chlorothalonil so it is a stronger dilution than Yates Bravo.


Using this information

EXAMPLE ONLY
1. Dilute spray volume as determined above: for example 1000 L/ha
2. Your chosen concentrate spray volume: example 500 L/ha
3. The concentration factor in this example is: 2 x (ie 1000 L / 500 L = 2)
4. If the dilute label rate is 210 mL/100 L, then the concentrate rate becomes 2 x 210, that is 420 g/100 L of concentrate spray.
The chosen spray volume, amount of product per 100 L of water, and the sprayer set up and operation may need to be changed as the crop grows. For further information on concentrate spraying, users are advised to consult relevant industry guidelines, undertake appropriate competency training and follow industry Best Practices.

I guess 210 mL/100 L means about 200ml per 100000ml dilution. Which I work out to be 2ml per Litre Concentrate rate is double this so my guess is some where between 2-4ml per litre.This should be sprayed until light run off.
Can anyone who understands all this clarify?


Mela can you specify what dilution you ended up finding the best for the 500g/L ?

[quote="Bretts"]It took a bit of talking but I managed to get this BRAVO WEATHERSTIK
http://www.syngenta.com.au/Start.aspx?P ... ctID=66608
added to an order that is going out to Cowra today. So looks like a trip out to the Cowra gardens
A bit of added information about this stuff is that it does not kill the fungus. It is a protectant. It will stop new leaves from getting it. This one I managed to get is a super duper excellent retention one that will stay on in weather longer.

Also this is 720g/L chlorothalonil so it is a stronger dilution than Yates Bravo.


Brett, Just wandering do you need a permit to get this product?

Na the only serious thing about buying it is the cost. Hopefully I can sell you some of mine because I think I might be in the shyte from the misses for this one

Bretts wrote:Na the only serious thing about buying it is the cost. Hopefully I can sell you some of mine because I think I might be in the shyte from the misses for this one

Brett, how much for 2L of the stuff and the postage to Sydney? Thanx, Edward.

Wonderful info thank you mel. It has just appeared on one of my Tridents and i have tried other stuff to no avail.

Hey guys I just PM'd the cost to Edward and I thought I might as well publish the deal I worked out
I have ordered the 10L bottle. As usual with these things it was left off the truck yesterday so it is due in tomorrow now.

It is costing almost $300 for the 10L bottle. I guess that is about right though as a 500ml bottle of fungicide is about $25-30 at the hardware and this works out to $15 per 500ml. I was planning on selling the 500ml for $20 each which would be $5 profit for my trouble.
If you get two litres that will reduce my outlay a bit so I will sell it to you at cost price. That still makes it $60 plus postage for the 2 litres. I think we can get the postage for under $10 or a 3kg express post is $11.30

So anyone else wanting 2L it is cost price $60 plus postage.

500ml bottle $20 plus postage which should be $5 or express $8. I think this is pretty fair as it will be delivered to your door probably cheaper than you could buy from the store if it was even available. Also this seems to be top shelf quality stuff.

Bretts,
My guess is the label is referring to two different sorts of sprayers - Dilute (standard) sprayers and, Concentrate sprayers which can spray more concentrated mixtures thus saving broad acre growers carrying lots of water around in their spray tanks. I would be sticking with the recommended application rates for dilute spraying further down the label which vary between 230 and 300ml per 100litres depending on the crop and disease. These dilutions would equate to 23-30 ml per 10 litres or 2-3ml per litre. I think a standard garden pressure sprayer or aven atrigger spray bottle would be closer to a standard dilute sprayer referred to in those instructions. I'd guess that a concentrate sprayer is a specialised piece of equipment.

My maples suffer from the same/ similar affliction but only for a short time each year - possibly less cupped but more mishapen than those I see posted here. This year the first leaves were normal then during Nov new leaves were affected now, Jan, new leaves appear normal again so i hope Mela's 'cure' was not just coincidence. I have never had a tree I thought died from this problem but that might just be my conditions. It affects nearly all my tridents (hundreds) to a greater or lesser degree. The ones in the ground are least affected I think.
I also see similar leaf afflictions in other threads with many other diagnoses being made and cures offered. it would be interesting if someone had time and ability to cross reference all these similar threads. So far I cannot see anything definite.
What we need is someone who can use one treatment on one or more trees and prevent the problem for a whole season, not just a few weeks or months.

Thanks Shibui
I worked it back from the Yates bravo directions as well and came up with 2ml per litre.
I too have had this come and go through the season but this year it is more drastic and I have had some small fatalities and I am sure if my larger trident continues as it is for the rest of the season it will not make it through the winter.

If my trees become better in the near future I will have no doubt this stuff did it. I am watching the new leaves intently as they surface now. They are very small but things look good so far. I am surprised it has any energy left to push out any new leaves!

Mela got a pathology report, I don't know if we can do any better than that. I think mine at least was also complicated with thrips. It seems that many bonsai people in the NSW have this affliction to some degree and I would urge growers to be very careful in avoiding it's spread as it seems has already been the case.