AusBonsai

Gday folks, and Happy New Year!!!

I've had this tree for maybe 8 years now, purchased from the 'throwaway' section at a local nursery for $10. It was severely root bound, and stood about 1.5m tall in a 250mm pot. I found myself floundering for about the first 5 or so: I had used poor soils and growing techniques, as well as trying to keep too much height in the long, straight trunk. Finally, about 3 years ago, I bit the bullet and chopped it really low, in order to gain some trunk movement and taper to compliment the lignotuber at the base. Two subsequent chops (about a year ago and a month ago respectively) have brought the trunk to where it is now, and I'm happy to start considering branch placement.

This tree was chopped and repotted about a month ago (late November?). I noted that growth had slowed to a crawl, and that no amount of watering could change the situation. I removed about 2/3 of the roots (which were limp and brittle) and potted into this mix. Since then I have been removing unwanted buds and shoots every day, as the thing is growing like mad. The trunk is exactly 250mm high at the latest chop point. [EDIT] The trunk is exactly 150mm at the latest chop point. [/EDIT]
Some of the key features that convinced me persevere with this specimen are:

-> Branching/backbudding: this tree displays the ability to backbud readily after pruning/chopping, but once a new leader is selected it will become apically dominant, preventing further shooting around the base of the trunk. (It is not uncommon for Eucs to be biased towards low budding or apical dominance, and often it is difficult to find a specimen which displays a good balance of both.)

-> Foliage: it is not apparent in the new leaves here, but the mature foliage of this particular tree is not too large for Bonsai purposes (it is lanceolate, and maybe 50mm long x 10mm wide for the largest leaves). It is also a very pleasant dusty blue-green, which compliments the bark nicely.

-> Bark: a delightful mix of red-brown fibrous bark at the base and bone coloured upper growth (after shedding, as seen in the photos).

-> Lignotuber: the rather large lignotuber on this tree is nicely placed in terms of the soil surface. The Koreshoffs warn against potting Euc lignotubers deeper, and in this case I have not had to, as the widest point of the tuber is flush with the soil line.

Stay tuned for updates.

Thanks.

Fly.

Hi Fly, that's a beauty of a trunk, I love it. Already a great look. To me this already looks like a success. 250mm you say, 25cm, that's yay big (with hands in font of me), very nice.

Marc wrote:Hi Fly, that's a beauty of a trunk, I love it. Already a great look. To me this already looks like a success. 250mm you say, 25cm, that's yay big (with hands in font of me), very nice.

Gday Marc!

Thanks for the comments, but I'm going to tell you something that might quell your enthusiasm... The 250mm trunk is actually only 150mm. My Firefox spellchecker is a great tool, but it doesn't seem to work so well when I make a numerical typo... I'll go back and edit my original post to reflect the trunk's true size.

Thanks anyway!

Fly.

He he, it's still a rippa, with some back budding and a new leading trunk-branch, it'll be awesome.

Great post Fly, Five years to think about what to do and three years to create the trunk - every beginner should read this post.

Jon

Thanks for sharing Mr Fly. This one is going to be special!

Just think how it would look if you knew then (8 yrs ago) what you know now...

S.

Jon Chown wrote:...Five years to think about what to do and three years to create the trunk - every beginner should read this post.

Gday Jon!

I think you're being a little too generous with your appraisal of my handling of this tree. More like '8 years of bumbling around with the tree and not killing it, now I can finally see some potential'. That said, it has been a great tree to learn with, and 8 years of not killing a tree is a good amount of time to hone one's eye and Bonsai aesthetic.

AusBonsai wrote:...Just think how it would look if you knew then (8 yrs ago) what you know now...

Gday Steven!

If I knew then what I know now, I might have saved myself 5 years in the development of this stick... However, most of what I know now about this tree has come from the 'wasted' time, if that makes any sense. As an aside, I like to think that this tree will have a decent structure within 3 years, and that it will be approaching a 'refined' state within 5. In 10 years it will be featured on the cover of international Bonsai publications...

Thanks gents!

Fly.

FlyBri wrote:In 10 years it will be featured on the cover of international Bonsai publications...

I have no doubts that this tree or one of your other pioneer Eucalypts will reach this status at a minimum!

Regards,
Steven

Can I call you the Gum Master then Fly

soltan wrote:Can I call you the Gum Master then Fly

OK then Brettles... When this tree is on the cover of an international Bonsai publication, then - and only then - you can call me the Gum Master, if you insist. Don't hold your breath...

Thanks.

Fly.

Gday folks!

Please find attached some pics of my Yellow Box as it stood only a couple of days ago. As suggested by myself and others in previous posts, a more active approach to the styling of this stump over the past few years would likely have seen a better refined tree today. Well, the other day, I decided to get active and start doing this trunk some justice...

In the nearly 2 months since I originally posted, the new growth had gotten away from me somewhat. This is not necessarily a bad thing, as it has given me time to choose some potential branches and a new leader, as well as showing what can be expected of the foliage in future.
However, my lapse in tending to this specimen has meant that some of the crucial internodes have grown too long to be of much use in styling terms, in some cases up to 50mm. The main problem with such extended growth is that there is no possibility of creating back-budding anywhere between the nodes in the short term (and very little possibility in the long term). No back-budding means no branching, no taper, and very little movement. The long internodal growth at , [C] and [D] is not too great an issue, as the shoots are still thin enough to be wired effectively. It is at [A] that problems arise: that shoot was earmarked as the new leader, but now (at all of 4mm thick...) it is too thick to adjust with wire. (There are other problems, but I'll get to them in good time.)
Despite the obvious issues that were staring me in the face, I decided to persevere with my original plan. All primary branches were wired to get good movement, regardless of whether or not they had the offensive long internodes. Vigorous upward growth was pruned back, except on the lower branches which I wished to keep. It looks OK, doesn't it? Hmmm...
Now about those 'other problems' I mentioned above... Upon having a good look at the photos during the editing process, I realized that I had made a major mistake by committing myself to the new leader at [A]: not only would it forever remain a straight, taperless, interest-free part of the trunk, but the point at which [C] and [D] diverge is (effectively) directly over the base of the trunk. If I were to continue with this design route, I would have few options but to continue to zig-zag the trunk up to its eventual apex.

I had considered going with the branch directly to the right of [A] (the one I had cut back so severely... ), but looking at the current front I was not convinced: if there's one thing I can't stand, it is the appearance (real or perceived) that a branch is coming off of a straight section of trunk. In this view, if I had lopped [A], the right-hand branch (the long, leafy one, that is) would have presented in such a fashion. Troubles abound...

* * *

Just this morning, haven taken delivery of my new turntable, I placed this stump on to give it a test run. When I rotated the tree only a few degrees counter-clockwise, I found my solution: the slight rotation had opened up an angle between the right-hand branch and the new potential leader. Not only that, but upon closer inspection, I found a heretofore unnoticed node [*] hiding under the mess of wire - in almost the perfect position to begin growing a new leader!!!
So, there you have a little insight into the workings (or not) of my brain during the design process. For now, I'll probably leave [A] intact for taper purposes, but I'll cut back [C] and [D] in the hopes of encouraging some new growth at [*]. All going well, I reckon I'll be able to keep the current front.

Thanks all for indulging me!

Fly.

Coming along very nicely mate!
Everything I have read recommends to use stainless or brass screws in bonsai as they don't rust or corrode. I've noticed in a lot of your posts that you use the standard gal dipped ones. Have you ever noticed any ill effects or do they not stay in for long enough to make a difference?

Regards,
Steven

I like what the bark is doing, very eucy

Steven wrote:Everything I have read recommends to use stainless or brass screws in bonsai as they don't rust or corrode. I've noticed in a lot of your posts that you use the standard gal dipped ones. Have you ever noticed any ill effects or do they not stay in for long enough to make a difference?

Gday Mr Steven!

The screws/washers here are brass, as are most of the ones I use (it is important to make sure they aren't just brass-plated). On the odd occasion that I have used galvanized screws, I have found no problems with regards to rust (in fact, the brass-plated screws and washers show rust far more quickly than even gal screws). As you suggest, it is possible that the gal screws are not in contact with the wood long enough to show signs of corrosion.

Damian Bee wrote:I like what the bark is doing, very eucy

Gday Damian!

This one has some of the best bark of any of my trees, and I'm quite lucky that it seems to swirl up the trunk As the old bark peels and cracks further, it should redden up, creating even greater contrast between living and dead tissue.

Thanks fellas!

Fly.