AusBonsai

Hi all!

Just wondering if some of our bending masters, have ever considered using jute webbing to bind a trunk instead of raffia?
Grabbed a role from work the other day, obviously not as thick as raffia, but geez I like the idea of it being on a role.

Well, I think it is worth experimenting with, so I'm going to try wrapping a trunk with it, then binding over the top with jute twine.

I can see there will probably be issues in a few years from rotting, but should be off by then anyway.

Can you see any other issues?


Here's a pic of what I mean, commonly used to tie up plants. The one I got would be twice as thick as the one shown.

Hi Mitchel that a ripper idea , definately worth trying . Rotting wouldn't be a problem as most trees would be set by the time it decays .Underground it would be worth trying for large root wraps .Cheers Alpine

Wont work in my opinion. When binding you need to use a material that can be put on tight and without gap (or weak points). Think of the alternative to raffia - tyre inner tube - and how that can be stretched to tightly bind the tree - raffia is the same - it is applied as tight as possible with no gaps.

Binding the tree for the purpose of bending not only holds the tree together when fractures occur in the growing layers, but also increases the ratio of flexible wood to hard wood in order to make the branch easier to bend. It is imperative that the binding is tight and firmly bound with no gaps.

Leigh Taafe wrote:Wont work in my opinion. When binding you need to use a material that can be put on tight and without gap (or weak points). Think of the alternative to raffia - tyre inner tube - and how that can be stretched to tightly bind the tree - raffia is the same - it is applied as tight as possible with no gaps.

Binding the tree for the purpose of bending not only holds the tree together when fractures occur in the growing layers, but also increases the ratio of flexible wood to hard wood in order to make the branch easier to bend. It is imperative that the binding is tight and firmly bound with no gaps.

Being a natural fibre, I was intending on wetting it prior to applying. I believe it would have the same tendancy to shrink as raffia does. I don't see "gaps" being anymore of an issue than with inner tube... as long as you adhered to about 1/2 width over lap on each turn.

As I mentioned, to ensure it is adequatley bound with no gaps, I will wind jute twine over the top leaving no gaps at all.

You may well be correct, I think it is worthy of atleast trying on some in-expensive medium though.


Edit- Though given your great deal of knowledge, I am now thinking I might be wasting my time...

Mitchell wrote:
You may well be correct, I think it is worthy of atleast trying on some in-expensive medium though.

Sounds great - let us know how you go.

Leigh Taafe wrote:
Sounds great - let us know how you go.

He says, as he thinks to himself... "Silly boy"



Me think's i'll be heading to the bike shop tomorrow...

I think I came up with this as I was watching some youtube vid on binding with fibreglass tape... I thought it could be replicated with jute webbing...

Rip it down the guts it may make it easier to apply , wetting sounds good too."You never never know if you don't have a go" .Cheers Alpine

Mitchell wrote:
Me think's i'll be heading to the bike shop tomorrow...

Here is a tip! Dont buy a new one - ask their service department for the punctured ones that they throw out - get them for nothing!

G,day Mitchell I have used furniture webbing which is a little stronger than Jute from memory ( thats a good one ). If you have followed my OH bugger saga you will see it in use.

Leigh, is right about it overlapping and being tight, my OH bugger was so tight, that the broken part survived till I undid it, then fell of with a live cutting.

I have seen cotten Bias binding used,it worked, the ladies use in sewing work. It was used by Hirotoshi Saitoh in 1996, when we could not source Raffia, coz no one knew where to get it then.

Cheers Pup

Pup wrote:If you have followed my OH bugger saga you will see it in use.


Cheers Pup

Sorry mate, I can only find part 4 through search... could you post the link of the first. Thanks

Out here in the bush I have used bale twine for binding before bending. Its easily available and free as a waste product. It seems to work ok when wrapped tight - not as quick as bike tube but still usable. Just don't leave it on too long or you end up with ripples around the branch/ trunk.

Mitchell wrote:

Pup wrote:If you have followed my OH bugger saga you will see it in use.


Cheers Pup

Sorry mate, I can only find part 4 through search... could you post the link of the first. Thanks

I have problems with posting links I have to go though it again. In the mean time go to page 15 in this forum. it is there

Stretchy and lightly adhesive "Vetinary Wrap" is probably the easiest way to go. It has all the properties we are after but without the drawbacks.

It is easy to apply in a roll.
It lightly adheres to it self.
It breathes.
It stretches.
It doesn't rip[ off bark.

Grant

NBPCA wrote:Stretchy and lightly adhesive "Vetinary Wrap" is probably the easiest way to go. It has all the properties we are after but without the drawbacks.

It is easy to apply in a roll.
It lightly adheres to it self.
It breathes.
It stretches.
It doesn't rip[ off bark.

Grant

But... I don't have Vet wrap at work....
Yes, I have read several articles maintaining Vet wrap is the best thing since sliced bread.. I will have to investigate more.

Personally will not use vet wrap again it does stick to pine bark, and it has only just disappeared in the last 2 months after 3 years being taken off.

JMHO Pup

Ps I can get it for nothing from my cousin who is the distributor in WA.